Lost almost all oil from my Techumseh HMKS-80 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Lost almost all oil from my Techumseh HMKS-80

I recently replaced the output shaft seal thinking it was the culprit. I noticed the last storm, my drive wheel was slipping. It was then I noticed all the oil around the belt cover. I’m thinking it’s the gasket around the cover itself.

My question is, should I replace the gasket, or should I repower the unit with a HF motor. The Tec runs fine, but I’m worried there was damage done due to low oil. It didn’t blow a hole in the motor, thank goodness! If I reseal the Tec, do I have to use a gasket, or, can I use a FIP gasket maker? What are the torque values for those bolts?

Any help would be great. I don’t have the money for a new machine, nor do I want one.



Thanks,
Scott
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 08:20 AM
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I have an Ariens with the Predator 212 and it runs just great, better actually than one that I have put a new B&S Snow engine on. Personally, at 99.00, I would not even mess with an older engine. But that is a decision you can only make, and I'm sure there are others here that would rebuild the Tecumseh.

What kind of machine?
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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It’s Snapper 824
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 12:09 PM
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You can try to tighten the sump cover bolts and see if that stops the leak. The least expensive thing to do is to replace the gasket. I suggest you use an oem gasket, the gasket sets the crankshaft end play and a different gasket may lead to improper clearance. Clean all gasket surfaces. Install the new gasket with a thin layer of gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket. If you have the sump cover off you might as well remove the connecting rod end cap (scratch mark the end cap orientation) and inspect the bearing for damage. If you don't find any damage the engine is probably fine. You can always put an engine on it later and you will only lose the cost of the gasket.
torque specs here
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...headmanual.pdf

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Last edited by toromike; 12-28-2019 at 02:27 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 12:33 PM
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Try the gasket/seal first, it's cheap and easy. That, and a Tec in decent shape is a far better engine than anything from Horrible Fraud . . . .
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 01:49 PM
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I would probably try the easy/cheap stuff with the Tec first. An engine swap may mean figuring out new controls, belts & belt cover, mounts, etc. Not necessarily all of those, but some, at least. Snugging down your existing bolts is an easy place to start, and it's possible that changing the gasket might also be simpler.

Some of this depends on the details of your blower, of course. My current machine has part of the chute mechanism mounted to the engine, so if I swapped engines, I'd need to figure out a different approach for that. I'm sure some swaps are easier than others.

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post #7 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Update: It was the output/ PTO shaft seal again. Good news is the oil level ended up still in the hashed area in the dipstick. Going to pickup another seal and try again.

Are all those seals the same across the HMKS line?
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 05:44 PM
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Make sure that there aren't any burrs on the shaft, and if you are not already doing so, cover any threads, keyways, etc. on the shaft when you fit the new one so that it canot be damaged.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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I think it was my fault. I don’t think I greased the rubber enough
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-28-2019, 08:11 PM
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good find on the leak!

you might have main "bearing" wear...resulting in play in the output shaft; when you engage traction/auger, it's able to pull down on the seal.

On these tecs, you're lucky if you have a brass sleeve there... unfortunately on newer models, its most likely just a machined surface in the aluminum sump cover (higher quality engines will have ball bearings here).


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