Cub Cadet surging/hunting, only runs on full choke,even after new carb - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 12-31-2019, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Cub Cadet surging/hunting, only runs on full choke,even after new carb

Hi gang. I have a question/problem I'm hoping someone can help with. I have a 1 year old Cub Cadet 2x24 I bought used after only 1 season of use. I drained the old fuel and filled it with high octane, ethanol free fuel. When I ran it, it would surge/hunt with the choke off. I took off the carb, sprayed with Gumout, took off the jet and sprayed it with Gumout, took a small wire and cleaned out the jet and all the little holes with it, cleaned the bowl, then put it all back. It still surged but then also backfired. I purchased a new carb for it (this model is a Powermore 670-wub engine and only OEM carbs exist for it) and put it on last night with new gaskets. Again, same problem: only runs on full choke and surges on half choke and dies with the choke off. Any ideas on what's going on here?
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post #2 of 17 Old 12-31-2019, 10:14 PM
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Have you checked the spark plug for gap, insulator cracking and general appearance ? You likely have a carb issue but a new plug would be cheap insurance before going through the trouble of sending this one back for a replacement. The problem is new doesn't always mean good.

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post #3 of 17 Old 12-31-2019, 10:32 PM
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it's running lean. , why? idk. u got to much air or not enough fuel for the fuel mix ratio . u seemed to do obvious fix. u probably need to change the air fuel mix but i dont think u can on that carb. bore out the jet little or buy a bigger one

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Last edited by vinnycom; 12-31-2019 at 10:34 PM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpk View Post
Hi gang. I have a question/problem I'm hoping someone can help with. I have a 1 year old Cub Cadet 2x24 I bought used after only 1 season of use. I drained the old fuel and filled it with high octane, ethanol free fuel. When I ran it, it would surge/hunt with the choke off. I took off the carb, sprayed with Gumout, took off the jet and sprayed it with Gumout, took a small wire and cleaned out the jet and all the little holes with it, cleaned the bowl, then put it all back. It still surged but then also backfired. I purchased a new carb for it (this model is a Powermore 670-wub engine and only OEM carbs exist for it) and put it on last night with new gaskets. Again, same problem: only runs on full choke and surges on half choke and dies with the choke off. Any ideas on what's going on here?
The new engines are made to run really lean to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Unfortunately, this makes them more prone to running extra lean which means surging and sometimes even stalling. Also, check the base of the carburetor and where the carburetor attaches to the airbox to see if it is making a good seal since even a tiny air leak could affect the engines running. If you can achieve a stable and smooth running engine by introducing some choke you will need to enrich the fuel/air mixture by hogging out the jet a little bit or simply buying a bigger main jet. I have a Predator 212cc on two snowblowers and I enlarged the hole in the main jet and they both work great when it is cold.
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 09:49 AM
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I looked up the parts diagram for that engine and noticed something interesting in the parts list for that carburetor-it lists a "mixture screw".


Does that carb actually have adjustable idle mixture or,as I suspect,it's a tamper-proof setup like the other Honda clones?


I would check the governor system and make sure the small throttle return spring is attached correctly and not stretched/deformed.


The throttle return spring came off the carb on my HF Greyhound engine and it had a tendency to surge.


Check that clamp on governor arm is tight and make sure governor is adjusted/operating correctly-no slop.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 10:16 AM
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Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you've done the usual suggestions.

I would check for air leaks around the carb, where it mounts to the engine. With the engine running, you can spray something flammable (like carb cleaner) around the carb/engine interface & gasket. Don't accidentally get it into the carb's intake (using a spray straw helps). If the engine's sound changes while spraying around that gasket, then you have an air leak, which is letting raw air into the engine, making your mixture too-lean.

You used new gaskets, so this is rather unlikely, but it's easy enough to check.

With a new carb, an air leak around the throttle shaft through the carb is also unlikely, but possible.

Since it's a used machine, are you certain the carb's throttle and governor linkages are attached correctly? Admittedly, it definitely sounds like you're running lean, since it dies with no choke, rather than simply surging. If you hold the throttle plate open, will it still die with the choke off?

As others have said, you may need to open the main jet's orifice slightly. You can use micro-drills for this, or torch tip cleaners also work. Since you've bought a new carb, you could modify the original jet, and still have the ability to go back to stock, by using the new carb's jet. Only make a small change at a time, though, then test it, since you can't put the metal back

Does it make good power when you have the choke on? The backfiring seems interesting; is it still doing that with the new carb?

If there *is* any mixture adjustment available, as Mike C saw, that would be preferable, of course.

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post #7 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 11:29 AM
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I'd careful about what Mike C. says because it appears he's as blind as a bat-somehow I didn't notice the part where it says it will only run on "full choke".I would say the governor is not involved with the surging in that case.I need coffee.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 12:35 PM
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Follow everyone's advice here, all great, nothing incorrect said, nothing else but generally for that problem it goes back to the carb. Try soaking the carb in Berrymans carb dunk carb cleaner tank, spray a carb cleaner in the holes, use a welding torch tip cleaner, remove the Welch plug if you have one, drain the gas in a 2l clear soda bottle looking for cloudiness, discoloration, and water on the bottom.

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post #9 of 17 Old 01-01-2020, 08:45 PM
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I am not sure where CARB cleaner got a repautio0j as a thing to spray into a carb. Ergh, and then you are bearing the stuff that comes out. Just because it will burn, DOES NOT MEAN ITS A GOOD IDEA!


Try an unlit propane torch, Propane and MAPP burns well and right and burns cleanly.

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post #10 of 17 Old 01-02-2020, 02:46 AM
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I am not sure where CARB cleaner got a repautio0j as a thing to spray into a carb. Ergh, and then you are bearing the stuff that comes out. Just because it will burn, DOES NOT MEAN ITS A GOOD IDEA!


Try an unlit propane torch, Propane and MAPP burns well and right and burns cleanly.
easier to spray a flammable liquid down the throat of a carb than trying to use propane, not everyone has a bottle of propane/mapp gas but we all have some kind of flammable spray in our garage. this method has been around since the invention of the combustion engine(spraying a flammable liquid into a carb)

its all good for the short amount of time we are using it for, these simple motors arent as delicate as some may think

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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Last edited by vinnycom; 01-02-2020 at 02:53 AM.
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