Craftsman 24” 291cc LCT engine jammed - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Craftsman 24” 291cc LCT engine jammed

Hi guys, I was using my 8 year old Craftsman 24” with 291cc LCT engine snowblower and put it away as I normally do. When I came to use it again the electric start won’t turn the engine and neither will the pull start. I took off the covers and exposed the flywheel. I can turn the flywheel about 15 degrees forward and backwards. When I turn it clockwise it hits a hard stop but then turn it counterclockwise and it turns 15 degrees but sounds ‘crunchy’ and then jams too. I have taken the spark plug out and it moves as I turn the flywheel. I can also see the output shaft rotating when I turn the flywheel. I recently did an oil change and used the correct specification oil. I haven’t emptied the oil yet to see if there are any metal pieces.
Do you have any ideas as to what is jamming the flywheel/engine from rotating?
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post #2 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 02:47 PM
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could be magnets under the flywheel from the stator came off and is jamming the flywheel
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post #3 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 02:53 PM
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Agreed, if you can pull the flywheel you will most likely find the problem.

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post #4 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 03:03 PM
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personally i would start by pulling the spark plug and try running some heat into the cylinder. it doesn't happen too often but you do see water working its way into the engine occasionally. don't use the electric start till you know the engine is freed up. best to use the pull start till it is moving.

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post #5 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks, I’ve managed to get down to the flywheel. Before I try prying at the flywheel itself, do I need to go buy a flywheel puller? I see the woodruff key in the shaft and normally they are in good n tight.
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post #6 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloggernobber View Post
Ok, thanks, Iíve managed to get down to the flywheel. Before I try prying at the flywheel itself, do I need to go buy a flywheel puller? I see the woodruff key in the shaft and normally they are in good n tight.
Loosen the nut on the flywheel. They take a pry bar and put some tension on the flywheel from the back side. and take a hammer (Plastic one if you have one) and hit the nut. Don't go crazy, and damage the threads of the nut or crankshaft. It will pop off.




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post #7 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 10:09 PM
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i would pull the spark plug first. so much easier to pull the plug and check to see if there is ice in the engine than it is to remove the flywheel.

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post #8 of 33 Old 01-22-2020, 10:14 PM
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You can use an impact on the nut if you have one or if not put some rope or cloth into the spark plug hole to jam the piston from going past TDC to use a ratchet on the nut.


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post #9 of 33 Old 01-23-2020, 09:05 AM
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Careful prying as behind the flywheel is of course aluminum and will crack easily. First I've used a wooden board putting it on the back side and banging the board with a hammer. I've also have made a wide wooden wedge from a 2x6 or 2x4 using my table saw. Then I've made an adapter using my puller to go behind it but first used the puller hooks before the adapter. I've worked on aluminium to steel cranks and steel flywheels to steel cranks. When it's off, put Never-Seize or synthetic grease on the crank and threads.

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Last edited by JLawrence08648; 01-23-2020 at 07:40 PM.
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post #10 of 33 Old 01-23-2020, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648 View Post
When it's off, put Never-Seize or synthetic grease on the crank and threads.

I use grease on anything that moves and may have to be removed or replaced in the future. I am under the assumption that a flywheel is held tight to the crank shaft by the taper and friction between the two. The key is just to hold it aligned for spark at the correct time. The heavy rotating mass of the flywheel doesn't need any help (grease) to shear the key.
Just my opinion, I've been wrong many times.

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