LED mod year 2 flicker starting - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 Old 01-25-2020, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
LED mod year 2 flicker starting

I have an Ariens Platinum 30 SHO 414-2017. I put two LED spot lights with electronics, sealed in epoxy and two caps. It worked fine with no horrible flicker unless the machine started to run out of gas. Now I get flicker. All the connections where sealed with dialectic grease, taped and painted with layers of rubber and put in protective sleaves. Maybe that has allowed corrosion to take hold since it never can air out?

The only other thing I can think of is the electronics pack got environmental damage and something leaked past the epoxy that I cant tell. I mounted it upsidedown so it was sheltered but still could have gotten hit with drips or snow.

Since I just pieced together someone's design I have little understanding how it would work fine for one year then now it is a bit faulty. I don't know if the snowblowers engine/generator is to blame--I have not tested that nor pry have the proper tester to really see what the generator was doing if it was wrong.

My simple assumption is one of the caps is just not working any longer or both not much at all. They are pry not as "tough" as promised. I saw other peoples DIY while researching this issue, and they have DC to DC converters to smooth this effect out even more, but mine never flickered until just now (. I have enough electronics to just build a new AC/DC and two caps again, but wondered what other suggestions to look to first that I may be missing or should I just get the dc to dc piece and slap that in the circuit and be done?


If I were to do this again from scratch I would go with one light bar instead so it 1, less connections, 2, looked even more insane to neighbors, 3, put out more light. I don't find mine really ever got blocked completely mounted on the front scoops pre-drilled holes, always superior to the handle mounted uni-bulb.


Last edited by fedge; 01-25-2020 at 02:15 PM. Reason: updated
fedge is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 01-25-2020, 02:53 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Gettysburg, Penna
Posts: 426
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 2
Thanks (Received): 28
Likes (Given): 142
Likes (Received): 57
Garage
Throwing out the welcome mat for your first post...Hearty welcome from the Battlefields of Gettysburg.

Perpetual optimism is a force multiplier!!
2019 Ariens Compact 24...
2013 Craftsman 22" 179cc better than shoveling
XM -1000, galvanized steel Shovel with gator grip tape....
Big Bad Kubota as a backup by neighbor.....
penna stogey is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 01-25-2020, 02:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: bolton, ont(north of toronto)
Posts: 871
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 59
Thanks (Received): 72
Likes (Given): 58
Likes (Received): 183
i would say replace caps, cheapest solution, leds like uniform voltage, or invest in a dc to dc supply

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

vinnycom is offline  
post #4 of 9 Old 01-25-2020, 03:44 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Posts: 1,378
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 48
Thanks (Received): 248
Likes (Given): 144
Likes (Received): 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by fedge View Post
My simple assumption is one of the caps is just not working any longer...
Do you have a multimeter with a capacitance (usually labeled MFD) function? If so, it's easy to check whether the caps are functioning within uF spec +/- %. With more and more solid state electronics involved in everything, right down to lighting, having cap testing capability will save you LOTS of money in the long term.

Here's one for about $35:


tabora is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 01-25-2020, 05:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Magnetic Hill, New Brunswick Canada Average snowfall (111.0'')282.0cms
Posts: 3,058
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 6
Thanks (Received): 125
Likes (Given): 43
Likes (Received): 904
Quote:
Originally Posted by fedge View Post

My simple assumption is one of the caps is just not working any longer or both not much at all. They are pry not as "tough" as promised. I saw other peoples DIY while researching this issue, and they have DC to DC converters to smooth this effect out even more, but mine never flickered until just now (. I have enough electronics to just build a new AC/DC and two caps again, but wondered what other suggestions to look to first that I may be missing or should I just get the dc to dc piece and slap that in the circuit and be done?
Electrolytic capacitors are very sensitive to over voltage. If you pieced it together with to tight a tolerance they may have arced over the isolating membrane. Once that happens then it snowballs and burns like a fuse. On a snowblower you should always at least double the tolerance.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
''Never drive faster than your guardian ANGEL can fly''
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Coby7 is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Thanks paulm12 thanked for this post
post #6 of 9 Old 01-26-2020, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
I am going to rebuild the electronics section. It seems that would be the quickest way. When I ordered all this stuff I got 4 of each, because that was the most cost effective and if one was a DOA component that would save me time.


I think the DC to DC converter is a needed addition though.


Thanks for the advice towards the solution.
fedge is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 01-26-2020, 08:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 194
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 6
Thanks (Received): 32
Likes (Given): 46
Likes (Received): 52
First, what is the voltage rating of the capacitors you used? I've seen LED light upgrade projects that used capacitors rated at 25, 35, and 50 volts. Most, if not all, of these projects connect a bridge rectifier to the alternator output and connect the capacitors directly to the bridge output. The 25 and 35 volt capacitors are underrated for this circuit. Even the 50 volt capacitor is marginal at best and using it would not be considered good engineering practice. Exceeding the voltage rating will destroy the capacitor. Capacitors should not be operated close to their rated voltage, a 50% safety margin is often used. The AC voltage for an unloaded alternator on small engines can exceed 30 volts. The lighting alternator has an unregulated output which goes very high when there is no load. The AC voltage is rectified by the bridge to become pulsating DC and applied to the capacitors. The peak voltage of the rectified 30 volts is 42 volts. The way this circuit is typically shown, whenever the engine is running and there is no load on the alternator the capacitors will charge to 42 volts. When the alternator is loaded the voltage will drop. The lowest capacitor voltage rating that I would suggest is 63 volts, but I think an 80 or even 100 volt rating would be appropriate. Even with a dc to dc converter I suggest you use the capacitors before the converter. Be sure the total load on the alternator does not exceed the alternator's rating. Some LED lights draw more current that you might expect. I would not pot the components in epoxy, just mount then in a small plastic box under the control panel.

1986 Toro 524 (Predator 212 Hemi, Impeller Mod.)
1997 Toro 724
1997 Toro 824XL Power Throw
toromike is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes Jesse11B liked this post
post #8 of 9 Old 01-27-2020, 07:58 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 29
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 2
Thanks (Received): 1
Likes (Given): 13
Likes (Received): 4
It was not clear in your original post, but did you use a bridge rectifier? If you are feeding AC power directly to a capacitor you will burn it out quickly. You should use the rectifier and cap(s) for best results.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Bakeram1 is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 01-28-2020, 09:12 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 402
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 21
Thanks (Received): 17
Likes (Given): 96
Likes (Received): 78
I would remove the caps if mine.
foggysail is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome