Snowblower run rough or stalls when temp is hot - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-12-2020, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Snowblower run rough or stalls when temp is hot

Hi guys,

When itís cold out, (-20 celcius and colder )the engine runs well and strong but when its hotter like -5 celcius or hotter, it first start well but when it get to operating temp, it start to run rough. When it stalls ( which happen alot), one or two push of the primer bulb starts right up. So it basicly starving fuel. If i let it cool down, it will run well for 5 mins and the issu will come back. I was thinking of trying a colder plug ? Your thoughts? What should i check next? I have a mastercraft 30Ē 10.5 hp tecumseh engine.

Last edited by Dannyrsnowblower; 03-12-2020 at 08:38 PM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-12-2020, 08:46 PM
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I think it's a dirty carburetor, ........., inlet float valve, not likely it's the spark plug but cheap enough.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
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post #3 of 7 Old Yesterday, 01:20 AM
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It sounds like the float level might be out of adjustment, like the level is too low.
Most cases the float seat would have to be replaced because they "Swell" and that drops the float level so you don't have enough fuel in the Carburetor bowl to meet the engines fuel demands and it cant replenish itself fast enough.
Many times when that happens you will get a surging engine speed before it gets too bad and dies all together, then it has to be re-started, and usually when it gets like that, by the time it stalls and you go to re-start it, the fuel level has enough time to replenish itself in the bowl.
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post #4 of 7 Old Yesterday, 11:10 AM
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One thing I forgot to mention, check your valve clearance in case you have a tight valve. Once it warms up, it will lose clearance and may not close tight enough to seal properly and need to be re-adjusted to seal better when the engine gets hotter.
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post #5 of 7 Old Yesterday, 01:10 PM
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op states old tech engine
sounds like poor fuel flow
is the bowl on in the right spot, wrong side improper float drop level?,is the needle stinking in the rubber seat? might be time for a new carb,

is the gas cap vent hole plugged from a mud dabber? builds up vacuum stops, sits flow slowly returns it runs ,repeats.
sounds like something simple stupid will be found
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post #6 of 7 Old Yesterday, 03:14 PM
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Good catch 87Powershiftx2.

Take the gas cap off and see if you have a problem. Put a piece of aluminum foil in its place with a small hole in the middle then see.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #7 of 7 Old Yesterday, 06:46 PM
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I vote for the fuel cap not venting. This will result in impaired fuel flow and the engine eventually stalls. Solution: a new fuel cap or a TINY hole in your current cap.
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