Removing Auger and Driveshaft Assembly - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Removing Auger and Driveshaft Assembly

Having a bit of a problem removing the augers and the driveshaft assembly (from gear case to where the pulleys were mounted) on the Gilson 476A. I've follow most of the procedures here, but had to skip some. I removed the transmission, wheels, and whole underside case as one unit since the wheels would not come off. I doubt they've ever been taken off as they are quite rusted on.

The drive friction pulley and auger pulley have been removed and the whole assembly will move about a 1/4" forward and backward from the barrel, but will not come free. I removed the two bolts and plate that were connected to the backside of the auger case around the impeller shaft.

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 11:08 AM
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I am not familiar with Gilsons, but I would think maybe your bearing that sits between the impeller and the pulley is getting hung up on the shaft? You might need to cut it off and replace it.

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I am not familiar with Gilsons, but I would think maybe your bearing that sits between the impeller and the pulley is getting hung up on the shaft? You might need to cut it off and replace it.
You are correct! Any idea about how to get it off? Pulley puller? Special tool? Also noticed that there's a circlip behind the front shaft bearing, I'll have to wait until I get more of the points as the ones I have are much too large for the holes on the circlip. There's always something, yeah?

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post #4 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 04:51 PM
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I just took an Ariens apart last week and used an angle grinder, hammer and screwdriver on that bearing. The bearing was a little noisy and I knew I could get another one so I just cut it off.

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CaffeineTripp View Post
Having a bit of a problem removing the augers and the driveshaft assembly (from gear case to where the pulleys were mounted) on the Gilson 476A. I've follow most of the procedures here, but had to skip some. I removed the transmission, wheels, and whole underside case as one unit since the wheels would not come off. I doubt they've ever been taken off as they are quite rusted on.

The drive friction pulley and auger pulley have been removed and the whole assembly will move about a 1/4" forward and backward from the barrel, but will not come free. I removed the two bolts and plate that were connected to the backside of the auger case around the impeller shaft.
That's a classic Gilson Unitrol.

It sounds like you are down to the home stretch. Have you removed the eccentric collar from the bearing? Have you removed the auger support bearings up front?

With all that done it's all about getting the bearing to move or removing it. Dress the shaft to remove any setscrew divots or key way deformation. That way if you get it moving it has a clear shot. You need to do this for reassembly anyhow.

If you put some wood blocks under the auger and put the chassis up on its nose you can get the bearing to rise a little. Depending on tolerance of your unit a pickle fork may get it moving.

If that does not do it move straight to precision destruction. An air hammer or drift / cold chisel & striking hammer can shatter the outer race of the bearing. Wear safety glasses! With that off it will slide right out. If the inner race is still hanging tight grind it free with a disc grinder. Think like trimming sideburns.

Above all, do no harm.

Pete
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-15-2014, 10:37 PM
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Also noticed that there's a circlip behind the front shaft bearing.
Really? I'm not picturing this.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-16-2014, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Really? I'm not picturing this.
I'll see if I can snag a picture of it this afternoon. Maybe I'm not describing where it is correctly? Anyway, I'll get a picture of it.

Thank you for all the help!

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post #8 of 8 Old 09-17-2014, 06:26 AM
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Gilsons are built tough, very thick metal and cast, and very durable machines. the super-dreadnoughts of snowblowers.
but they don't come apart as easily as other makes. most likely because being so durable, they run a lot longer before needing service, by that time everything is rusted fast.
the shafts are also of a lesser hardness metallurgy than an Ariens or Cadet, and will bend easier if the machine ingests a rock or newspaper. So proceed with caution.




just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
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Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
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Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
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