Ariens 8526 running rough - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-21-2014, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens 8526 running rough

Hi all, New to the forums.

I just scored an Ariens 8526 for free and am having some trouble getting it to run right. It did run before I started tinkering with it, and it does run better now, but not much better. It's got a Tecumseh LH318SA on it.

It was dirty. I mean really dirty. I took all the shrouds/covers/brackets of and removed all the grime. I emptied about 1/4" of sludge out of the gas tank, rinsed several times and dried thoroughly. All new fuel lines and a fuel filter were added during re-assembly.

The carb so dirty I couldn't even see the idle speed or mixture adjustments. I was originally going to rebuilt it, but realized that a new one was only $8 more than a rebuild kit. Guess which one I bought. I followed the Tecumseh technicians manual and set the main and idle screws to 1.5 and 1 turn respectively.

After getting it all back together, adding fresh premium fuel (with stabil) and putting in a new spark plug I primed it and pulled the cord. It started, but the idle was very poor and after a few seconds died. I repeated this a few times and eventually got it to stay running, although still rough. The weird thing is adjusting the idle screw didn't really seem to do anything, but adjusting the main did. It leveled right out and only had a mild "snort". At full throttle it seems to run better but still does have that "snort". Is this normal? It hasn't snowed yet here in NH so I have no way of testing under load. Also, restarting it either hot or cold it requires a few pumps of the primer bulb and maybe even more pulls of the rope.

I did measure compression cold and hot: 75 and 90 psi. I know this model has a decompression feature but I don't know what is good or bad for hot or cold compression figures. I've read anything from 50 to 100 for cold, no info for hot. I didn't really think this was an issue, but I went ahead and de-carbed it with some seafoam thinking maybe a stuck ring. I don't think it helped a bit. Could it be a valve issue? I haven't pulled the head yet and don't really want to unless otherwise influenced.

I suppose my only reason for posting here is because I have a newer Ariens 624 with a Tecumseh OH195SA that runs like a top every time. Choke, a few primes and even well below 0 it will start on first pull. For comparison I measured the compression, 160psi, although i don't believe this engine has the decompression feature.

So what do the experts think?

Thanks in advance for any and all help, and stay warm!
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post #2 of 19 Old 10-21-2014, 07:05 PM
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Not an expert, but it sounds as though your idle jets, on the side of your carb are not completely clear.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
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post #3 of 19 Old 10-21-2014, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply.

The carb is brand new, was set to the factor specs and was adjusted both "rich and lean". It responded to the main jet more than the idle, but neither adjustment eliminated the issue which is what led me to think it was something else. I guess it could be a bad carb. Maybe cleaning the original isn't a bad idea after all.

Does anyone know what the compression should be cold?
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post #4 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 12:06 AM
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Well the snort you describe, sounds it might be a over rich situation. What does the plug look like?

On another note, what did the oil look like when you drained it? Is there a chance that it was ran with low oil, considering the level neglect that you have already corrected?

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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The new plug looked good, gray without any oil. I forgot to check the old plug.

The oil looked like it had a seasons worth of running. It wasn't brand new, but it definitely wasn't black or sludge. There was plenty of it too, right up to the line on the dipstick. I guess it's possible it was run low at some point, but I have no way of knowing.

The fact that it runs worse at idle doesn't worry me too much. As long as I can get it started in the winter and move some snow I'll be happy. I'm just worried there is actually something wrong with it and applying a load may cause damage.
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 06:24 PM
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ALOHA to the forms..: cool::co ol:

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 07:54 PM
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Is the SNORT coming from the carb or the muffler? Older engines have a tendency for the valves to wear into their seats and losing their required clearance. The snort is usually heard when the engine is at operating temperature causing the exhaust valve to lengthen and lose the .008 clearance required to keep the valve seated and emitted through the muffler.
The compression readings you have do not show a valve problem when the engine is cold. Could be a valve or just a little tweaking of the carb to eliminate the snort.

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post #8 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Now, that I didn't check initially. It appears to be coming from the exhaust though. In the right light I can actually see it. I'm thinking I just go ahead and the pull the head and valve cover to check. With any luck I'll report back tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help.
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-22-2014, 11:28 PM
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Might check the valve to tappet clearance. Located through the access panel/PCV port on the side of the engine.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-23-2014, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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So I pulled the Head and valve access cover after work today. Measuring the valve clearance revealed ~0.004" for the intake side and nothing for the exhaust side. I have read that the exhaust side is more prone to this than the intake side, although I'm not sure why. Is this what they refer to as worn valve seats? I don't see any issues with the cylinder. please let me know if you disagree.

So do I just remove the valves and hit them with a file to bring the gaps back to spec? Speaking of, I'm fairly certain the manual mentions 0.008" and 0.012", although I could be wrong. I do have a grinder and a lathe but I think both may be overkill for this.

Also, it seems that everything just exposed to light is rather dirty. Should it be? Should I clean it prior to putting the head back on?

Thanks again for all of your help!


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