Tecumseh quit on me. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 11-02-2014, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Tecumseh quit on me.

Well my "new" toy excitement didn't last too long.

I recently purchased what I'm pretty sure is a 7hp 1973 Ariens snowblower. Since I've owned it I've had it running approx. 4 times just to move it around. Today was planning on an oil change, new plug and once over before any white stuff might start appearing.

I went to start it to bring around the house and all it would do is crank over. After a few fairly long attempts(electric start option) I pulled the plug and put in the new one. Still nothing.

Finally I checked for spark and got none....new plug or old plug. The only thing I've done to engine is spray the carb down with carb cleaner and lube all the linkage. I assume the first order of business is to change the condenser? Is there a certain order of checking to do when trying to trace the cause of no spark? Thanks.
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post #2 of 20 Old 11-02-2014, 07:35 PM
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Yea, could be the points and condensor need cleaned or replaced. Before tearing the engine apart make sure none of the exterior wiring is worn through. Check the throttle and the key and make sure nothing is shorting out.

If you need a lot of money to fix it you might consider the $100 Harbor Freight engines as well.

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Last edited by Shryp; 11-02-2014 at 07:38 PM.
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post #3 of 20 Old 11-02-2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copperhead View Post
Well my "new" toy excitement didn't last too long.

I recently purchased what I'm pretty sure is a 7hp 1973 Ariens snowblower. Since I've owned it I've had it running approx. 4 times just to move it around. Today was planning on an oil change, new plug and once over before any white stuff might start appearing.

I went to start it to bring around the house and all it would do is crank over. After a few fairly long attempts(electric start option) I pulled the plug and put in the new one. Still nothing.

Finally I checked for spark and got none....new plug or old plug. The only thing I've done to engine is spray the carb down with carb cleaner and lube all the linkage. I assume the first order of business is to change the condenser? Is there a certain order of checking to do when trying to trace the cause of no spark? Thanks.
Shryp looks like you beat me to the post by a few minutes lol. the first order of business is to check for spark, hook the plug wire to the new plug and ground the body of the plug. Crank the engine and look for a spark at the electrode. Make sure you don't have the throttle in the off position. check for a short in the green wire coming from the coil to the throttle lever and make sure it is not grounded out.
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post #4 of 20 Old 11-02-2014, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Shryp looks like you beat me to the post by a few minutes lol. the first order of business is to check for spark, hook the plug wire to the new plug and ground the body of the plug. Crank the engine and look for a spark at the electrode. Make sure you don't have the throttle in the off position. check for a short in the green wire coming from the coil to the throttle lever and make sure it is not grounded out.
Thanks for the quick replies. I followed the mentioned procedure to check for spark and got none. Even went out in the dark to be sure I wasn't missing it. I'll have to check the green wire you also mentioned. I do remember a green wire that attaches under the carb cover assembly. I know it was connected to a terminal but didn't trace it.
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post #5 of 20 Old 11-03-2014, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by copperhead View Post
Thanks for the quick replies. I followed the mentioned procedure to check for spark and got none. Even went out in the dark to be sure I wasn't missing it. I'll have to check the green wire you also mentioned. I do remember a green wire that attaches under the carb cover assembly. I know it was connected to a terminal but didn't trace it.
If that green wire is shorted to any part of the engine or snowblower the engine will not start and you will have no spark. Best to disconnect it for testing purposes.
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post #6 of 20 Old 11-03-2014, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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If that green wire is shorted to any part of the engine or snowblower the engine will not start and you will have no spark. Best to disconnect it for testing purposes.
Excuse my ignorance...If I disconnect the wire, and the engine produces spark, it's possible that the cause of non-spark is the wire shorting out?

But the wire(non-shorted) does need to be connected for the engine to actually run..correct?
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post #7 of 20 Old 11-03-2014, 08:39 PM
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The wire has nothing to do with the engine running. The only purpose of the wire is to kill the engine. If the wire has rubbed the insulation off and it is touching metal it will be the same as if the key is off and you will have no spark.

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post #8 of 20 Old 11-03-2014, 11:20 PM
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Can someone give me a ballpark year when points/condenser went the way of the dodo bird?
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post #9 of 20 Old 11-03-2014, 11:22 PM
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Can someone give me a ballpark year when points/condenser went the way of the dodo bird?
Think it was around 1980.

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post #10 of 20 Old 11-04-2014, 07:04 AM
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you can buy a new Nova II electronic ignition, it installs with one small screw into the top cover of the engine, and is cheaper than points. it also will last forever. I put one on my tractor and it has been trouble free for over 10 years now, and the machine is stored outside year round and not covered. the Nova II will start even when the machine is covered with a foot of snow and ice.

they are on Ebay for around $12, I buy them 4 at a time and use them on all my machines. I'll use a machine with points as long as it starts, but the day the points fail, that machine gets a Nova II and the points get pulled off.

repair it once with a Nova II and you'll never have to remove the flywheel and cover again.
the problem with my tractor was, the points would short out and quit on the day of a snowstorm. moisture wreaks havoc with points. but these Nova II boxes are sealed in a urethane plastic and I've yet to have one fail on me.

you can put them on the old chain saws, generators, mini bikes, go karts, tillers, tractors, lawnmowers, 2 stroke or 4 stroke.

here is the link- they work on any small engine regardless of magnetic polarity, if the magnet is different polarity, all you do it reverse the wiring. it installs with 2 wires and one screw. if God made an easier ignition for small engines, He kept it for Himself !

it can easily be mounted on the outside of the engine, and if ever there is a problem with it in the future, it can be changed out easily without removing the pullstart cover or flywheel. using this means you never have to remove the flywheel again, unless you have an engine where the coil is located under the flywheel, and the coil goes bad. on all the snowblowers I've worked on, the coil is outside the flywheel so that can also be changed externally as well. the real beauty of the Nova II is, it works with your existing coil, and the flywheel never has to be re-polarized.







just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
1967 S-242 Snowbird 4/24
AMF Dynamark Luminaire 5362 8/26 3-stage
Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
Gilson 55012 8/26 gear drive
Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
New Holland/Gilson Unitrol 8/26
(2) AMF Polar Bear 7/26 3-stage project/parts machines

Last edited by greatwhitebuffalo; 11-04-2014 at 07:15 AM.
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