How to replace wire from stator? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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How to replace wire from stator?

I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram.

Do I just remove the cover for the manual recoil starter with 4 gold-colored nuts? Or do I have to remove the black engine housing?

Take a look at the photos. Photo #1 shows what looks like a white wire (it's actually yellow as seen in photo #2) exiting the black engine housing. The system is only posting 1 photo at a time so my other 2 photos will be in separate posts.
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post #2 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Here is photo#2 which shows the same wire (now you can see it's yellow) with the exposed strands of copper wire.
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post #3 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Here is photo #3 which shows the black housing. You can see 2 of the 4 gold nuts/bolts by the recoil starter handle. There are a couple of bolts on top of the housing, there's one on each side of the spark plug.
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post #4 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO Snow View Post
I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram.
.
You will have to replace the wire all the way to the stator or until you find good wire and yes you should remove the recoil case and see if you have access to the wire being in good shape. Try this for start.

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Ariens ST1530DLE, and good ole arm powered scrapper.
The 15 HP is a new Ducar engine sold
by Princess Auto in Canada.
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post #5 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 09:09 PM
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Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.


Link to engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...headmanual.pdf

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post #6 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 11:05 PM
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I am not positive, but if that shorts out I think it could have ruined your lightning coil.

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post #7 of 34 Old 12-10-2014, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?
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post #8 of 34 Old 12-11-2014, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO Snow View Post
Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?
You could just go to the next step by removing the recoil shroud and see if the wire is not damaged as you can splice from there but there is no guaranty as Shryp pointed out the lightning coil could be kaput but its worth a try. Good Luck

Snow Removal Apparatus I own:
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The 15 HP is a new Ducar engine sold
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post #9 of 34 Old 12-11-2014, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyyTWNH7Ow

Link to engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...headmanual.pdf
Just curious, Grunt, you said 58 ft\lbs and the video says 52 ft\lbs?

I'm going to try this repair project. I've taken off the engine shroud along with the cup, nut and washer on the shaft. I'm ready to remove the flywheel. Easier said than done. Here's a photo of what it looks like. I assume I need to use a gear puller and put the hooks behind the teeth around the outside edge of the flywheel. Bear with me because I haven't used one of these before. Then use a socket and ratchet to turn the shaft of the gear puller? Is it likely to be tough to get off? Any lubricant or hammer needed?
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post #10 of 34 Old 12-11-2014, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a photo of the flywheel looking from above.

Why can't I upload more than 1 photo at a time? I select the photos and click on UPLOAD but only the last selected file uploads. The file size is small so that's not the problem.
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