Tech H60 no spark after reassembly - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Tech H60 no spark after reassembly

I just completed replacing the connecting rod in my H60 motor. It's my first time opening a motor....you might call me a youtube mechanic. As far as I can tell, everything went back together correctly. No parts left over. I lined up the timing marks, etc. In the youtube video, the guy removed the crankshaft and removed the piston from the bottom. His reasoning was to save replacing a head gasket if he went in from the top. I hammered a bit on the flywheel before coming to the conclusion that replacing a three dollar gasket was going to be a lot easier than fighting with the flywheel.

So the motor is back on the snowblower, and I just tried to fire it up. It won't start, and the problem appears to be lack of spark. I tested this by removing the plug and holding it against the engine block while engaging the electric start. So now I'm wondering if I reassembled something incorrectly, or possibly damaged something while hammering on the flywheel. Or maybe the old plug wire didn't like being jostled around on the bench.

I'd appreciate any advice on how to proceed/troubleshoot this....hopefully starting with the least invasive.
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post #2 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 01:28 PM
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Did you gap the points correctly? Magnets ok inside the flywheel? Do you maybe have the kill switch improperly wired? Do you have the key in the slot? Start with the simplest thing and go from there. That wojld be working backwards from what I just posted.

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post #3 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 01:35 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forum Tommy. Did you by chance remove the ignition coil? If you did, did you use a business card to set the air gap between the coil and the flywheel magnets? Also make sure the throttle is in the run position and you are using a KNOWN GOOD spark plug.

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post #4 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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I did not (knowingly) remove the ignition coil or any other electrical components. The plug is a few years old, but was working last week when I threw the rod. Correct me if I'm wrong...the coil and points are behind the flywheel? I didn't remove the flywheel, but did give some good whacks with a hammer and wood block before coming to the conclusion that it's will to not move was stronger than mine to remove it. I removed the head instead.

There is no kill switch or key. This thing is 50 yrs old......
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post #5 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 02:05 PM
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Sorry Tommy, I didn't realize it had a points ignition. Your engine will have or should have an ignition cutoff on the throttle control. When you move the throttle to off, the linkage contacts a small spring that gets grounded and shuts off the spark, so make sure the throttle is set to run. Posting your engine numbers stamped into the top of the recoil shroud near the spark plug will let us know more about the engine. The numbers may be underneath the electric start push button assembly.

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Last edited by Grunt; 12-18-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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post #6 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
Sorry Tommy, I didn't realize it had a points ignition.
I don't *know* whether it has points or not...I only mentioned it because micah asked about them.

It's a Tecumseh H60-75003W motor. I'm not aware of a ignition cutoff on the throttle control. The throttle is a single cable going to the carb linkage. I've worked on the carb several times and never noticed a grounding spring. That doesn't mean it's not there...I just never noticed it. I didn't remove the carb during the dis-assembly I simply disconnected the throttle cable and the governor. I'm really hoping it's just something stupid that I missed, but I don't see any wires other than the plug wire.
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post #7 of 37 Old 12-18-2014, 11:35 PM
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There has to be ONE other wire...it's the ignition kill, and its black, and will lead up under the flywheel...You may have inadvertently snagged that wire and its caught up under the shroud, and touching the block...thus grounding out the ignition [?]..
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post #8 of 37 Old 12-19-2014, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommymc View Post
it's will to not move was stronger than mine to remove it.
That is one of the funniest things I've read in a long time
If you post up a few pics of the motor, Grunt can set you straight on those Tecumsehs. Like most have posted, there is a wire from the underside of the flywheel that goes to the bottom of the throttle mechanism. Do you have a key switch? If you track that wiring, you'll see the wire that goes up inside the shrouding to the engine.

Last edited by jtclays; 12-19-2014 at 06:34 AM.
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post #9 of 37 Old 12-19-2014, 06:30 AM
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Did you check the key on the flywheel? It could be sheared. Also, make sure the connector on the end of your plug wire is making good contact with the copper core. A good spark tool will give a better reading than holding the plug to ground. I would pan on pulling the flywheel to clean and reset the points as well. MH

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post #10 of 37 Old 12-19-2014, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
That is one of the funniest things I've read in a long time
If you post up a few pics of the motor, Grunt can set you straight on those Tecumsehs. Like most have posted, there is a wire from the underside of the flywheel that goes to the bottom of the throttle mechanism. Do you have a key switch? If you track that wiring, you'll see the wire that goes up inside the shrouding to the engine.
There *is* a wire I'd overlooked running from the underside of the flywheel to the carb/linkage. I've wiggled it around, and it doesn't seem to be touching the block. No, there's no key switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead64
Did you check the key on the flywheel? It could be sheared. Also, make sure the connector on the end of your plug wire is making good contact with the copper core. A good spark tool will give a better reading than holding the plug to ground. I would pan on pulling the flywheel to clean and reset the points as well. MH
I didn't make note of the key. I just removed the recoil mechanism and shroud. Then backed the nut holding the flywheel out till it was flush with the wnd of the shaft. Then I placed a wood block on it (the nut) and whacked it with a hammer. When it didn't budge after a few tries, I didn't use force, I got a bigger hammer.

It's starting to sound like the flywheel is going to have to come off...the thing I was trying to avoid. When I get the motor back on the bench, I can take some pics. Until then, any tips?
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