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Old craftsman - auger chain seems routed wrong

10K views 46 replies 5 participants last post by  classiccat 
#1 · (Edited)
Old craftsman 3.5/20 Single Stage Build

Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.
 

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#2 ·
Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.
I have that same blower! See "Lil Red" in my signature. :D

you're correct, the chain should be routed below the tension sprocket.
 
#3 ·
Thank you. I noticed that like yours, mine doesn't throw the snow very far either. I tried it for the first time today and it cleared about 2" from my driveway. Still need to dial in the carb. The thing took about 50+ pulls to get it started and the revs seem low to me. Also leaks gas out the carb so I need to put on a fuel shutoff.
 
#6 · (Edited)
There were two master links in the chain so I removed one and the length is good.

Couple more questions for you if I may...

Idler Sprocket- mine is very loose. It is not really putting any tension on the chain and I have it all the way down. There is a lot of side-to-side play too. Is there supposed to be a washer between the sprocket and hood? There is no bearing on mine, it just rides loosely on the shaft. I saw you replaced yours with a new unit. Did that happen to be the 13 tooth roller bearing sprocket from TSC for $25?

Chain - What size?

Oil - do I just fill it to the top of the fill plug?
 
#12 ·
I ordered some MTD steel skids to replace the stupid "wheels" on the front. One of the wheels came off while I was snow-blowing tonight (probably needed a nylock nut because the regular nut vibrated off). One wheel is all seized up and the other one is a makeshift wheel.
 
#13 ·
I've been on the fence about keeping the gage wheels since you don't have as much flexibility for height and they tend to sink-in further on ground that isn't completely frozen...On the otherhand, if you can get them to roll correctly, they seem to last a long time! I can grab some pics of my fugly wheels if you're interested :eek:.

If the MTD skids don't work out for ya (our machines have a smaller skid hole spacing than standard skids), guys have been fabricating skids out of tough plastic materials...even plastic cutting boards.
 
#15 ·
Bummer oldcman!

bunch of questions:

  • Was the engine warm when you tried to restart? If so, did you try to restart when the engine was cool again?
  • Did you check for spark when it wouldn't start?
  • Are you using fresh fuel?
  • Install a new plug?
  • Install new fuel line?
  • Install a fuel filter?
Trying to start without a primer also puts you at a disadvantage. You may need a squirt of fuel in the carb throat; I’ve never had a Tecumseh carb without a primer so can’t really help you there (i.e. how much fuel to squirt in). Assuming that your old carb has a good bowl seal, you could use it to gauge how much fuel is produced with 3-5 primer pushes.

Good luck!
 
#16 ·
Welcome to the forum :D

The bolts the gauge wheels run on can be had at Fastenal part # 1126346
I needed to replace the ones on my craftsman. Need to make sure you have ones with 1/2" hole.

You were lucky and bumped into someone with the same machine. Might be a good idea to add some info to your signature or post a model/serial number when you post a question so someone else might be able to help you out.
 
#19 ·
I asked about the fuel line/filter because it's possible that some old crud got in and blocked-up your new carb.

Definitely install a new fuel line/filter when you’re changing out the fuel line; ¼” ID is correct.

Also, throw in a new spark plug; my old H35 loves the champion J8C or equivalent. If I am going to clean a plug, I only use seafoam & a torch; I avoid using abrasives/wire for fear that something will remain & drop into my cylinder.

Being that it was running, I doubt that it’s an ignition problem but it wouldn’t hurt to have an adjustable gap spark tester in case the problem is intermittent. 1.) Turn-off the fuel & drain the carb (still keep the plug in to prevent a fuel cloud from forming from any residual fuel). 2.) set the tester to "SE" for small engine. 3.) connect the plug wire to the tester 4.) clamp the tester to the engine block. 5.) Pull the recoil watching for a strong blue spark.

I kind of like the old-school gage wheels (aka pizza cutters). :D
 
#20 ·
I put on the new fuel line today. The engine seemed to start easier and run much better at idle.

I hooked up my tach and after playing with the mixture screws, I was getting
Idle: 750-800 rpm
Max: 2250-2300 rpm

It sure sounds a lot faster than the low-mid 2000's but I believe my setting on the tach is correct because the idle speed is about right.

I thought I read that these engines run about 3500 rpm?
 
#21 ·
Great News!!!!!

I dont know if ive ever gotten a tecumseh to idle that low; mine normally idle in the 1800-2200 range...your tach might be a factor of 2 off although I could be wrong. If thats the case your machine is over revving. Adjust rpms by adjusting the governor spring tension screw rig hr above the throttle lever.
 
#24 ·
The TECs that had a "bump" on the exhaust cam for compression release would never idle low or smooth. There were some that had a release that was a fly weight on the cam. For my mini bikes I would grind off the lump. Would idle like a car and way better power.
 
#30 ·
I wouldnt mess with that governor too much until you are comfortable with what your tach is telling you. There are a few vid links in my thread...it was running around 3300; ive since adjusted to 3500.

Since you did drop a new carb on, the governor arm probably needs to be recalibrated. Let us know if you need assistance with that procedure.

Unfortunately this is an area that if you mess up, the connecting rod will poke through the block to tell you so :)
 
#31 · (Edited)
I set my tach for 1 spark per revolution. After adjusting the governor linkage, the governor is holding the engine steady at exactly 3,000rpm. Of course I could increase it but maybe this smaller hp engine is supposed to be maxed out at 3000 instead of 3500? I have searched for rpm setting for this specific model but have been unable to come up with anything. The manual says to see microfiche #30 but a search for that turns up nothing.

What is a good idle setting? I guess it doesn't really matter but I can turn the screw down pretty much as low as I want and it seems good. I set it at 1500.

Good thing I didn't blow the engine because I was running it above 4,000 for quite a few times of snow blowing.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I set my tach for 1 spark per revolution. After adjusting the governor linkage, the governor is holding the engine steady at exactly 3,000rpm. Of course I could increase it but maybe this smaller hp engine is supposed to be maxed out at 3,500. I have searched for rpm setting for this specific model but have been unable to come up with anything. The manual says to see microfiche #30 but a search for that turns up nothing.

What is a good idle setting? I guess it doesn't really matter but I can turn the screw down pretty much as low as I want and it seems good.
It's really coming together oldcman!

This machine idles around 2000...it bounces around quite a bit for reasons that scrappy describes. if you set it too low, it will stall.

max RPM is 3600 but I like to set around 3500 to account for any fluctuations.

for the high RPM, you adjust this with spring tension. There's a small screw on the throttle lever that fine-tunes the tension. If that screw is in all the way and you're only at 3-grand, then you'll need to go up 1 hole on the governor arm and back-off the fine-tune screw to ~ 1/2way and try again.

If you go out too far with the fine adjustment screw, and it's overrevving, then you go down a hole (less spring tension). I think I eventually set at 4-holes down but I'd have to check when I get home.

I grabbed this picture before I buttoned-up my H35. you can see how all of the internal & external components work together:
 
#33 ·
I saw that pic in your other thread, thank you. I moved the spring up one hole and tightened the screw a bit. Sitting right at 3540rpm now! I picked up some new stainless steel screws for the belt cover that I was missing. Now the only thing left is to put the skids on.
 
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