Old craftsman - auger chain seems routed wrong - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Old craftsman 3.5/20 Single Stage Build

Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.
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Last edited by oldcman; 01-15-2015 at 06:33 PM.
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post #2 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcman View Post
Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.
I have that same blower! See "Lil Red" in my signature.

you're correct, the chain should be routed below the tension sprocket.


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post #3 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
I have that same blower! See "Lil Red" in my signature.

you're correct, the chain should be routed below the tension sprocket.
Thank you. I noticed that like yours, mine doesn't throw the snow very far either. I tried it for the first time today and it cleared about 2" from my driveway. Still need to dial in the carb. The thing took about 50+ pulls to get it started and the revs seem low to me. Also leaks gas out the carb so I need to put on a fuel shutoff.
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post #4 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcman View Post
Thank you. I noticed that like yours, mine doesn't throw the snow very far either. I tried it for the first time today and it cleared about 2" from my driveway. Still need to dial in the carb. The thing took about 50+ pulls to get it started and the revs seem low to me. Also leaks gas out the carb so I need to put on a fuel shutoff.
You're welcome!

Mine threw pretty well for it's size/power/age with the old Auger. My new auger is only turning at 1/2-speed ...at the moment ...there's some "throwagra" in the mail

I recommend getting a tachometer to dial-in that engine. Sirometer or a tiny-tach work great. 3500 RPMs is where I run mine; 3600 is the maximum.

If gas is leaking out of the carb, it's time for a rebuild. Rebuild kits are cheap and it's very easy to do. Your float could be flooded (filled with fuel)...and/or set at the incorrect height... and/or the needle isn't seating.

Definitely add a fuel cut-off...along with an inline fuel filter...along with a new fuel line.

Difficulty starting could be a number of things. Rebuild the carb & put in a new J8C plug (assuming this is an H35) and we'll go from there!


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Last edited by classiccat; 01-05-2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: throwagra link
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post #5 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 12:00 PM
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Oh...and before you rebuild the carb...be sure to take pictures/notes of the linkage & spring settings.


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post #6 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
Oh...and before you rebuild the carb...be sure to take pictures/notes of the linkage & spring settings.
There were two master links in the chain so I removed one and the length is good.

Couple more questions for you if I may...

Idler Sprocket- mine is very loose. It is not really putting any tension on the chain and I have it all the way down. There is a lot of side-to-side play too. Is there supposed to be a washer between the sprocket and hood? There is no bearing on mine, it just rides loosely on the shaft. I saw you replaced yours with a new unit. Did that happen to be the 13 tooth roller bearing sprocket from TSC for $25?

Chain - What size?

Oil - do I just fill it to the top of the fill plug?

Last edited by oldcman; 01-05-2015 at 01:04 PM.
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post #7 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcman View Post
There were two master links in the chain so I removed one and the length is good.

Couple more questions for you if I may...

Idler sprocket- mine is very loose. It is not really putting any tension on the chain and I have it all the way down. There is a lot of side-to-side play too. Is there supposed to be a washer between the sprocket and hood? There is no bearing on mine, it just rides loosely on the shaft. I saw you replaced yours with a new unit. Did that happen to be the 13 tooth roller bearing sprocket from TSC for $25?

Oil - do I just fill it to the top of the fill plug?
My idler sprocket has a bushing on the inside. Iíll take it apart when I get home from work and snap some pics. I had to add 2 washers between the sprocket & hood to get the right spacing.

My idler sprocket is original. What Iím about to change out is the auger drive sprocket (going from 15 to 25 teeth) to account for the larger sprocket on the auger assembly (aka ďthrowagraĒ).

Does yours have a dipstick / filler tube? When I found mine on the curb, it was broken off. These engines run very poor if your crankcase isnít sealed. The H35 takes about 21 oz of oil.


Here's a good shot of the fill level inside the crank case (Note: this is what a governor should not look like)


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post #8 of 47 Old 01-05-2015, 08:20 PM
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My idler sprocket has a bushing on the inside. Iíll take it apart when I get home from work and snap some pics. I had to add 2 washers between the sprocket & hood to get the right spacing.




Hope that helps!


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post #9 of 47 Old 01-06-2015, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Looks the same as mine, I just need to get the washers. Thank you.

Are you using the original guide wheels on the bottom front of the blower or did you replace them with anything?
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post #10 of 47 Old 01-06-2015, 11:10 AM
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Looks the same as mine, I just need to get the washers. Thank you.

Are you using the original guide wheels on the bottom front of the blower or did you replace them with anything?
The one on the right-side is completely original. The left-side I had to fab the hardware out of 3/8" Stainless nylock nut / bolt combo with a stainless steel tubing spacer for the gauge wheel to ride-on; It's not pretty but it works!


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