Ariens 910008 runs for a bit, then shuts down - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Ariens 910008 runs for a bit, then shuts down

Hi everyone, I posted a thread here a few months back about an Ariens I founds on Craigslist this summer. (Found here-https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/24490-general-maintenance-ariens-910008-a.html)

I'm in New England, so today we got about 5" of snow and it's still coming down. I wouldn't call it wet by any means, it was pretty easy to shovel and plow (which I had to do manually...that's why I'm here obviously)

I opened up the fuel shutoff valve on the bottom of the gas tank, and used the electric start with full choke on and with the left hand lever on 'Park-Fast' and the gear in '1'. It started right up with the electric start, and I let it go at full choke for about 1-2 minutes, before moving it to the middle choke position where it still sounded strong. I tried moving it all the way open, but I could hear it slowing down and wanting to die, so I moved it back to half choke for a while (1-2 minutes more). I then put it to no choke and it was sounding just as good.

I put the auger gear on and started going down my paved driveway. No problem at all on the first line, but as soon as I got to the bottom of my driveway (it's not a hill, just the end of my driveway, about 20 feet long), I put it in reverse, and it immediately died out. I didn't bother trying to pull start it because I had problems with that in the past (where it would get really hard to pull and it seemed like the pull cord was being seized).

So, I pulled it back to the garage, tried to start it up again with the electric start, and it wouldn't start up-I noticed that I had accidently moved the left hand lever from Park-fast to a bit slower, so maybe that was it. I jammed it back into park, and it started up. I got to move it about 5 feet throwing snow out, and it died again. Noticing that there was a sign on the carb cover that said remove when operating above freezing so I took that cover off, and that didn't help.

Went back, this time it started with the choke open, but almost died, so I closed the choke a bit, and kept it running, another 5 feet, and it died on me.

Tried one more time, and it didn't want to start. I saw some sparks around the front of the carb (guessing by the starter?). I gave it a rest while I shoveled, then came back, and it started up again, but died out shortly after (like 15 seconds).

I don't get it. The fuel is good (I think-had stabilizer in it and just purchased a few months ago). The fuel shutoff was wide open (I actually had it open since it got cold out, but I closed it a week or two ago because I smelled gas in the garage, turns out it was leaking out of the shutoff valve) during the whole operation.

The guy I bought it from fixes these things and resells them as a side job, and he put a new fuel filter on it right in front of me and said he had changed the oil and spark plug just a week before I bought it.

Reading online, I'm wondering if maybe the vent on the gas cap is plugged? I could try leaving the gas cap off and seeing how long it lasts this time around.

Also, regarding the snow, was I pushing it too hard the first time? I couldn't just do half off the width of the blower like I've heard you need to do for wet snow, but it was spitting it out pretty well on that first run. Once I had that part cleared, the next path I only used half the width of the blower, but it still died on me.

Here's my guesses, but I'll leave it to the pros here:

1) Possible plugged up gas cap
2) Maybe the spark plug is bad and just needs changed? I also just noticed that the spark plug isn't a standard 5/8, and I don't have a 7/8 deep well socket which is what it looks like it needs.
3) Bad gas
4) maybe the carb needs overhauled/tuned up
5) the left hand lever (with Stop, Slow, Park, Fast on it) doesn't seem to work as indicated. If I leave it on "fast" it was running, but when I tried to slow it down a bit by moving the lever toward STOP, it would just die out...there was no wiggle room in there. The reason I was trying to slow it down because even in gear 1 (on the right side handle), it was moving really quick. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it was moving pretty fast for me...I can't even imagine trying gears 2-4 because I think I'd be running behind the thing.

Any suggestions are more than welcome. I shoveled the whole driveway earlier, but there's an inch or two to play with now.

Here's a picture of the lever on the left I'm talking about


Last edited by nwin; 01-24-2015 at 05:10 PM.
nwin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Here's some more pictures...

Carb cover off, supposed to press the black button if temp is below 10 degrees, but it doesn't look like it does anything:


Top of where carb cover normally is:


Front of blower with spark plug wire detached:


Gas can with cover off..looks like the cap has some rust on it:


Guessing this is the starter?


New fuel filter:
nwin is offline  
post #3 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 06:06 PM
Moderator
 
Shryp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 4,159
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 196
Likes (Given): 6
Likes (Received): 250
Well, it is obvious something is wrong. Either it is lacking fuel and needs the carb cleaned or is lacking spark and maybe the points are bad. You said it leaks oil right? Maybe oil is leaking onto the points?

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
Shryp is offline  
post #4 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 06:27 PM
Senior Member
 
CarlB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 701
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 29
Likes (Given): 2
Likes (Received): 68
could be the valve seats are recessed and when it get warm there is not enough valve lash and the exhaust valve is not fully closing causing lack of power/stalling. this is a pretty common problem with l head tech engines.
CarlB is offline  
post #5 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shryp View Post
Well, it is obvious something is wrong. Either it is lacking fuel and needs the carb cleaned or is lacking spark and maybe the points are bad. You said it leaks oil right? Maybe oil is leaking onto the points?
No, it's not leaking oil. I left the shut-off valve for the gas tank open for a few months and I noticed gas was leaking out of it the other day, so I shut it before I had to use it today.
nwin is offline  
post #6 of 37 Old 01-24-2015, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlB View Post
could be the valve seats are recessed and when it get warm there is not enough valve lash and the exhaust valve is not fully closing causing lack of power/stalling. this is a pretty common problem with l head tech engines.
This sounds like something that you can't really mess with, save for replacing the engine...
nwin is offline  
post #7 of 37 Old 01-25-2015, 08:10 AM
Senior Member
 
CarlB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 701
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 29
Likes (Given): 2
Likes (Received): 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwin View Post
This sounds like something that you can't really mess with, save for replacing the engine...
This is not a very difficult repair, but it does require removing the head, carb and oil breather to get access to the valves. This is a common problem on Tecumseh engines. What engine is on your blower?

if it is a single shaft engine engine replacement options are many. One of the more popular single shaft engine swaps is the harbor freight predator engines which can be had for less than 100 dollars.
CarlB is offline  
post #8 of 37 Old 01-25-2015, 03:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,175
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 142
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 291
I don't know, but the choke plate/cold weather assist "funnel" (not sure what else to call it) looks to be varnished and charred. It shouldn't be, with leads my to believe that there is a situation that is allowing for fuel and exhaust gasses leaking back through. This may be indicative to the valves not closing completely, and sealing.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
db9938 is offline  
post #9 of 37 Old 01-25-2015, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by db9938 View Post
I don't know, but the choke plate/cold weather assist "funnel" (not sure what else to call it) looks to be varnished and charred. It shouldn't be, with leads my to believe that there is a situation that is allowing for fuel and exhaust gasses leaking back through. This may be indicative to the valves not closing completely, and sealing.
Are you talking about the thing in this picture with the black button?

nwin is offline  
post #10 of 37 Old 01-25-2015, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 35
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlB View Post
This is not a very difficult repair, but it does require removing the head, carb and oil breather to get access to the valves. This is a common problem on Tecumseh engines. What engine is on your blower?

if it is a single shaft engine engine replacement options are many. One of the more popular single shaft engine swaps is the harbor freight predator engines which can be had for less than 100 dollars.
From what I can tell, it looks stock. It still has the Ariens paint (maybe it was a sticker, but it looks like it was painted) that says 'Ariens powered by Tecumseh 7HP'

My main thing is, I bought this used on Craigslist for about $280 I think? At this point, I'm wondering if it's worth dropping another $100 on an engine or not. Besides that, how would I know what would fit? This is the closest thing I can see to what you were talking about: 6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA

Would an engine replacement be pretty much plug and play?
nwin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome