been repairing pull starter ropes, recoils - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 02-17-2015, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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been repairing pull starter ropes, recoils

well one thing is for certain- being into old vintage pre-1980 snowblowers, you get to know the pullstarter and recoil assembly VERY well...like the backside of your hand.
in the past few weeks I had to fix broken ropes, and put additional rewind tension into, 4 of my Tecumseh powered machines.
the 3.5 Ariens needed a new handle, the metal part was cutting into my hand. replaced that, then the rope broke shortly thereafter. I didn't even get a chance to move snow with that one yet.
the Dynamark Luminaire broke the rope at least 5 times. I kept shortening the rope, until today I replaced it with a used one.
the 4HP Snowbird had other problems- the entire recoil assembly vibrated loose today, and I lost 3 of the hold down bolts while blowing snow in the driveway. that rope was also shortened already, and frayed, so I replaced that one with used one today.
the Ariens 8/32 need an extra wind of recoil tension. and the cogs are kicking out late, so it doesn't engage immediately when pulled.
the Briggs not only start easier, the recoils are more reliable on them.




just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
1967 S-242 Snowbird 4/24
AMF Dynamark Luminaire 5362 8/26 3-stage
Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
Gilson 55012 8/26 gear drive
Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
New Holland/Gilson Unitrol 8/26
(2) AMF Polar Bear 7/26 3-stage project/parts machines
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post #2 of 3 Old 02-17-2015, 08:36 PM
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the briggs recoils are only more reliable if you keep the clutch and crankshaft clean, it really helps to lubricate the ball bearings with motor oil, never grease, if grease is used the ball bearings will get stuck and the starter will not catch. sometimes the clutches seize to the crankshaft and they scream/squeal, making the neighbors think your crazy. they are extremely reliable if you keep up on the clutch maintenance
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post #3 of 3 Old 02-18-2015, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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I'm noticing overall the Briggs 8HP vs Tecumseh 8HP, the Briggs is generally easier starting, and the carbs are more resistant to getting plugged up, they can tolerate a certain amount of debris in the fuel and still run. The Tec. carbs can't tolerate hardly any fine debris or old fuel without acting up. The passages must be smaller or have more bends in them, or ? Often times I can clear a Briggs carb just by removing the main jet needle, letting fuel run out of it, and the engine is just fine for another season. With the Tec. engines, the bowl and idle mix screw must be removed, and carb cleaner shot through it to clear it. Sometimes repeatedly in the same season. They can be finicky, then again my machines are stored outside. If I had to choose one to be stranded with, it would be a Briggs powered machine. I also noticed the Briggs is easier to pull start, the actual effort required to extend the starter cord. The Briggs engines I have never broke a pull cord yet. This makes me believe that the Tec. engines have a little more compression, and more radical cams, than the Briggs. So they are a little harder to pull start.




just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
1967 S-242 Snowbird 4/24
AMF Dynamark Luminaire 5362 8/26 3-stage
Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
Gilson 55012 8/26 gear drive
Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
New Holland/Gilson Unitrol 8/26
(2) AMF Polar Bear 7/26 3-stage project/parts machines
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