Snowbird 7040-0 eats a few impeller pins like candy... - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-02-2015, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Snowbird 7040-0 eats a few impeller pins like candy...

well we live, we learn...the impeller roll pin fell out on the Snowbird today. dug through the hardware can, and found a stainless 1/4" fine thread bolt, and nylon self locking nut. installed that.

the machine snapped it off and spit the bolt parts out somewhere....never did find them...

ok you little bugger, dig in the hardware can again, found a HARDENDED ALLEN HEAD bolt, coarse thread 5/16" diameter, and a self locking nut for that. threaded that on. took a few pics to show "it's fixed now"

ran the machine a little more, it promptly SNAPPED THAT OFF TOO. !!

ok that means war...stopped by the hardware store and bought a hardened 5/16" roll pin, a clevis pin with matching lock pin, and a hardened 5/16" coarse nut self locking. one of these has to work.

figured try the roll pin first being that's what was in there before. from working with them before I know they are very hard and nearly impossible to break, to shorten them you have to grind them down.
this roll pin is a lot longer than oem so hopefully it will grab some material on the side too. it should stay put. tapped that in and hopefully it won't shear that off ??

good fun...but I'm just wondering, why alluvasudden is it breaking these ?




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post #2 of 24 Old 03-02-2015, 05:13 PM
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I think it's because your engine is on backwards



I'm not familiar with the breakdown of that impeller; is there slop in the bushing/bearing allowing the impeller to smack off of the housing somewhere?


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post #3 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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no play there, but I think the problem is, there is slop in the roll pin holes both sides, on the impeller, from age and wear. there's a slight amount of slop on the roll pin hole in the shaft itself. a few thou when inserting a 5/16" bolt. it should be tight and not wiggle at all.
the impeller bangs around against the roll pin. or whatever is put in there as a pin. that gives it a head start enough to break them off.

the new roll pin was already bent, and starting to fall out and all I did was run the machine in place, didn't even blow any snow with it yet.

the roll pin the previous owner had in there, was also loose when I got it, but he has a small screw with nut and washers on each side of the roll pin, through middle of roll pin- so as it moved back/forth it would be caught and held in place by the washers.

I may have to do that to get it to stay there. or find a very strong hitch pin like the hardened type used on trailer towing hitches, that won't snap off.

in the meantime I removed the new roll pin, coated it with super glue gel adhesive, and drove it back in there.

if you ever want really strong "locktite" that stuff is it. I've put it on threads before, and when disassembled years later, it take heat from a torch to get it to release. otherwise it will rip the threads off the bolt as it's unthreaded. one time a bolt snapped in half before it released. that's just how strong it is on threads.




just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
1967 S-242 Snowbird 4/24
AMF Dynamark Luminaire 5362 8/26 3-stage
Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
Gilson 55012 8/26 gear drive
Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
New Holland/Gilson Unitrol 8/26
(2) AMF Polar Bear 7/26 3-stage project/parts machines

Last edited by greatwhitebuffalo; 03-03-2015 at 07:19 AM.
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 07:38 AM
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Can you drill both to a larger size for a larger pin? MH

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post #5 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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I could drill it to 3/8" pin size. but that would start to make the drive shaft thinner. if that shaft breaks the machine is a dead player.

the insane part is, it broke off a hardened allen bolt/nut, and a stainless bolt/nut. holy cripes !!

if it drops the roll pin, I'm going to try a grade 8 bolt.




just say NO to Chinese made ANYTHING !
1967 S-242 Snowbird 4/24
AMF Dynamark Luminaire 5362 8/26 3-stage
Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage
Gilson 55012 8/26 gear drive
Ariens 910010 8/32
Cub Cadet 268 8/26
Yard-Man Snowbird 7040-0 5/22
Ariens 10M-L35 3.5/24
New Holland/Gilson Unitrol 8/26
(2) AMF Polar Bear 7/26 3-stage project/parts machines
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 09:04 AM
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Another option may be to fill both holes with weld, then re drill to spec. MH

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post #7 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 09:10 AM
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Welding and drilling sounds like the best bet.

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post #8 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 09:18 AM
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Agreed... although the holes must be drilled in *exactly* the right place.

Or... assuming there's one pin, or two with one in front of the other... how about drilling new holes in the impeller 90 degrees away from the existing ones?

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post #9 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 09:25 AM
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Just drill new holes in the original size, a little way from the old holes. You keep putting bigger, hardened bolts in there and soon you won't have to worry about them breaking. You'll be looking for a new set of gears.

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post #10 of 24 Old 03-03-2015, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micah68kj View Post
Just drill new holes in the original size, a little way from the old holes. You keep putting bigger, hardened bolts in there and soon you won't have to worry about them breaking. You'll be looking for a new set of gears.
+1 If I kept snapping bolts, especially hardened bolts, I would ask my self why. IMHO, instead of putting in bigger and stronger bolts and pins I would be trying to find the root cause. Shear pins are the weakest link for a reason. They are meant to be sacrificial to fail before something more major (and expensive) gets damaged. Just sayin'


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