70's Ariens Seized by Rust? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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70's Ariens Seized by Rust?

Hey all, quick intro (or maybe slightly long):

I picked up a 70's Ariens about 1 1/2 years ago for $50. The previous owner said it wouldn't run at the time, so he tried pulling the carb but couldn't figure out the issue. He lost interest and left the parts in a bag, except he took off whatever he felt at the time.

I planned at the time to re-power the unit with a Predator and then work on the original engine after the fact. Stick the birth of my daughter in the middle and well I had no time for anything. (Except picking up my Ariens 932104 that was in working order before this crazy winter).

Well, now that winter is over I want to revisit the old 24" 1970's machine. The tractor is a 910962 model with serial #028810. The attachment is Model 910995 Serial #045321. I have read through Scotts website, and I believe it is a 1971 model year. The engine is Tecumseh H70-130067A Serial #1179R. It turns over by hand with no issues (the shroud and spark plug were removed by P.O.) and it sounds like it has good compression.

So this past weekend I went out to start checking on what might need to be done and found the attachment clutch engaged. I tried to disengage it, and the handle would not budge at all. I tried a few taps with a mallet, and same thing. Not even an inch of movement. I decided at this point to separate the unit and once I did, it became extremely obvious why the clutch was stuck. All the parts were totally rusted together. Almost fused by rust. Part of me thinks this may have been the reason the unit would not start for the P.O.

Now, I'm looking for opinions. Should I try to free everything and clean it up? Or should I just look for some parts that are in good working order and replace what I can? The impeller and augers spins freely when turned by hand, and I still plan on the re-power, so I'd rather not give up on this machine.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 12:38 PM
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Well... I don't think that explains the engine's failure to start. Even if the belt clutch was engaged at the time, if the impeller shaft can spin then the engine can spin (assuming there's not a problem with the wheel drive).

I'd go at it with penetrating oil and see if you can get the mechanism freed up. You'd have do that anyway if you want to replace parts. Then depending on how well it works, you can decide which parts to keep and which to replace.

~1994 Ariens 924084 (ST1032) "papa bear": restored, re-engined, real nice!
1991 Ariens 924050 (ST824) "mama bear"
Toro PowerCurve 1800 "baby bear"

Be alert! America needs more lerts.
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 01:12 PM
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use pb blaster, a mallet or hammer(to smack down on the clutch and maybe a propane torch to help free it up. shouldnt be to hard
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 01:17 PM
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WoW! Should be able to get it working, but it's going to take some time. That dog clutch must be on a splined shaft, that's going to be the fun one to work loose. Good luck with it. I usually use transmission fluid on something like that, not only penetrates, but lubricates too. It does take a bit of time to work. I use type F or dexron, the older types.

~1975 Canadiana 1026 Heavy Duty w/light & limited slip differential (& custom exhaust (need to fabricate manifold), customized impeller housing, removable chute in about 5 sec) (currently out of service)

~ Craftsman 8/25 Trac-Drive C950-52671 (mid 80's ???) (current user) (replaced blown engine with original, now in service again)

~ Craftsman 12/32 OHV 71-52112-1 (now in service)

~Noma GP 1028EL (repaired and serviced for daughter to use)
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 01:17 PM
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If the Engine is seized, Fill the Crankcase with oil. Then Pull out the Sparkplug, and spray some PB Blaster into the Cylinder. Wait a few Minutes, and put a pipe Wrench on the Crankshaft, and slowly work it back and forth until it frees up. Then Check for spark. If it has spark, try starting it with a shot of ether. Clean Carb and fuel system, and You're back in business. Then Change the Oil. With the Machine Split, Spray the Impeller input shaft with PB Blaster, and Hit the Engagement Pulley with a Big Hammer until it moves Freely. GL.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-17-2015, 02:15 PM
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Once you get the clutch parts all freed up and working, and still want to keep the parts, Evapo-rust should knock a lot of that rust down. From there, you can hit with some Ospho to knock it down even more.

With the Evapo-rust, you slop it on w/a paint brush and then wrap it in paper towels to keep it moist for 24 hours while the application works. Then keep redoing the process until you've done as best as you think you can. From there, hit the remainder once or twice with the Ospho.

The Evapo-rust is cheap at $8-9 at the local auto parts store; an application or two will at least give you a handle on how bad everything really is in there.

There's also a guy in a Boston suburb that has a gazzillion Ariens snowblower parts for sale. Maybe that is an easier way.

Link #1, Boston snowblower junkyard parts guy: 21,248 Snowblower parts Ariens Toro Craftsman Noma Murray MTD

Link #2, Evapo-rust: Evapo-Rust Rust Remover - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover

Link #3, Ospho: Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

Last edited by toroused; 03-17-2015 at 02:18 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-18-2015, 12:55 AM
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That is too rusted for me, I'd find a replacement bucket. Now is the best time to buy one cheap. I paid $50 each for two just like yours this week. Summer isn't a great time to buy but it picks up again in the fall. People clean out the garage when they buy a new one.

Another option is to check local dealers to see what they have in their boneyards. Most folks just dump the old one with the dealer when they get a repair estimate and decide to buy a new one. I bought most of my dealers units for between $75 and $150. The prices went up as we got more snow.

If you decide you MUST repair it, use Muriatic acid to dissolve the rust. You can buy it at Home Depot or a pool supply house. Mix it with water and only use it outdoors, it is NASTY stuff. Wear protective gear and a good quality painter's mask, not the cheap paper ones. I've used it on old car parts in the past. You need to paint or oil any parts cleaned this way. They will rust in a day, the acid does a number on the surface. It will also make small parts brittle.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-18-2015, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the options all, hopefully I can get at it a bit more this weekend.

ELaw, I bought it as non-working. The previous owner couldn't start it. I just thought maybe the clutch being engaged and all the rust made if difficult to get going. I never had a chance to try with a "working" engine.

As for the engine Jackmels, it turns over when spun by hand with no issues. I really wish the previous owner hadn't taken off whatever parts he felt like removing as he tried to troubleshoot it, but then again it wouldn't have been so cheap if he knew what he was doing. The fuel line is pretty dried up and cracked, so I know that will have to get replaced. I have not checked for a spark yet, but with my plan of re-powering it anyway, I can worry about the engine after the fact.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-18-2015, 10:39 AM
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a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid do a great job of freeing up rusted / stuck parts. If you can get it off the machine and take it apart it should be pretty easy to get back into working order.
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