Is anybody familiar with Kawasaki FB460 engines...? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-23-2015, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Question Is anybody familiar with Kawasaki FB460 engines...?

I have what seems to be a Kawasaki FB460 engine (it is insatalled on a small commercial walk behind mower/replaced a B&S engine).
There are no numbers anywhere (the cover is missing the decalls and painted black).
I would like to be able to identify the engine first, if it is a 12HP, 12.5HP, or 14HP.

The main issue that I have is a no start/very hard to start cold, if you remove the air filter and cover it is easier to start, but still it can take anywhere from 5 to 10 pulls to get it running.
When the engine is warm it starts right up on first pull.
I have cleaned the tank an added fresh fuel, changed the fuel filter and hoses, removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled carburetor along with all the intake and carb gaskets. Changed engine oil and filter.
I believed I also changed the spark plug.

Im I missing something?
What woul be my next step?
What would be a good way to check compression since it does not have electric start, and what should be an acceptable value.

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-23-2015, 09:14 PM
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Not familiar with that exact model, but I have worked on a few Kawasaki carbs (Mikuni). I have one on my JD LX188. They all had a pilot jet on the top of the carb that needed to be clear. Some were not threaded, but held in by a separate clip that was screwed on top of the brass jet. My LX was threaded. If you took apart the carb, I assume you noticed they have quite the assortment of main jet pieces. There's a little short jet, then the holder, then the tube that all thread out of the main stalk. On one push mower, the linkage that controlled the choke had a "v" bend in it that was basically the adjustment. After much cleaning and dinking around I found that to be the hard start problem. The choke butterfly was just not closing completely. A simple bending out of the "v" made it close, and she started right up. On my LX the choke linkage was straight and linked to the throttle plate (dash has one throttle/choke combo lever). It would occasionally hang up and not close also. According to the local parts place I use, the choke not closing fully is a common problem on the Mikuni/Kawasaki setups. I also had a bad carb solenoid on the LX. Worked sometimes, sometimes not. Good set of snipping pliers saved me $90 and all is good now.
Forgot, my LX is a 17hp, the others I worked on were smaller walk behind motors, but the carbs were very similar in setup

Last edited by jtclays; 06-23-2015 at 09:17 PM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-23-2015, 10:00 PM
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Use them for years on commercial mowers- one of the best engines Kawi made. It is a 12.5 hp. Make sure when you move the throttle to full (choke) position it is adjusted to actually give full choke like mentioned above- they need that full choke. Also might want to check the vave adjustment. If way off could cause hard start. P.S.- They use a igniter mounted on side of block that tend to go out after years of use..may be a issue down the road but I think it would have '0' spark if that went out- (not sure if they can get weak though so better let someone else answer on that).

Last edited by Geno; 06-23-2015 at 10:02 PM.
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-23-2015, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you both.

Jtclays, the carb is a mikuni looks like 32796-Z213. I had the pilot jet out (retained by a L clip and a screw), did notice the tripple set up on the main jet. The float was hanging too far down (assumming it is supposed to be leveled with the carb body), I happen to have another Kawi FB460 engine, so I took the float out of it and this sits level with the carb body. I read somewhere about the choke and it indeed was not closing all the way, I adjusted the linkage at the "V" section for it to fully close but it made no difference.
Geno, I think I can swap the igniter from my spare engine and recheck.
Depending on compression results I'll check the valve adjustment.

What is the proper procedure to do a compression check on it and what should I expect?
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post #5 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 12:27 AM
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post #6 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 10:04 AM
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Not a mechanic here but ball park compression I'd say- 120 and above is good but I don't know what manual says. Will run on less though. To check/adjust valves just have piston on TDC on compression stroke. As far as doing compression check just put tester in plug hole and crank over (or pull over) WITH fuel valve turned off.. Make sure crank over for good 10 times or more before reading on dial in plug hole.

Last edited by Geno; 06-24-2015 at 10:10 AM.
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you both.
Surprisingle the manual says compression should not be less than 55psi (55psi is acceptable ?).
I think what I will do is a compression check, spark plug change and recheck.
If compression is too low, I will check the valve adjustment.
If compression is ok, I will change the igniter using the one from my spare engine.

I'll keep you posted with the results. Thanks again.
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post #8 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 11:42 AM
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interesting?.. maybe it has a decompression release valve built into it? - you could go to the mechanical repair section of Lawn Site (hope this is ok to say this).. They will have the answer for you. If it has the Decompression valve on cam it would be that low but that doesn't mean rings are bad. could do a leak-down test to get a better Idea. If it was mine I'd pull the valves-inspect them and inspect seats- then if ok lap them and re-install (done this on mine before-easy) then I'd adjust valves to specs and see how it starts and runs. But do the simple stuff first like make sure choke is operating to full choke, ect. I'd also try that other igniter.

Last edited by Geno; 06-24-2015 at 12:00 PM.
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post #9 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 12:43 PM
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Do you get any back pressure through the carb when you pull it over cold (have to remove the air filter to really tell and I think that has a goofy filter attachment on it)? Maybe the intake is not seating like Geno suggested checking.
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-24-2015, 12:47 PM
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I was just thinking, maybe Scot or Shryp should move us to re-power? I'm on different sites and being summer I kinda forgot we're just snowblowers here.
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