Uh oh. What did I do? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Uh oh. What did I do?

Hey everyone. New to this snow blower stuff but it's fun.

Cleaned the carb for the first time. I wasn't able to remove the carb from the engine so I cleaned I removed float and main jet and bowl and cleaned them directly. And, then just sprayed the carb directly with it still on the engine.

I reset the main jet screw and the idle mixture screw by turning counter clockwise from stop, 1 full turn and 1 and 1/2 full turn respectively.

Now, I was ready to start the engine!

I pressed the primer twice and gas started dripping right away from the carb air flow area. Hopefully, that's ok.

I pulled the cord and the cord yanked me back. I yanked it again and the engine started.

The engine seems to be running really really fast so I pushed the throttle down. The engine didn't do anything for a second or two but then the engine slowed down.

I opened up the choke to full but the engine cut out.

I closed the choke and put the throttle back to fast and started the engine. It seems the throttle isn't very responsive. And, it's only fast or idle. There doesn't seem to be any middle ground and it's not very responsive.

Questions:

1. Is it ok that gas was dripping when the primer is pressed just once?
2. Is it ok that the cord yanks back?
3. The throttle doesn't seem to be very responsive. What could the cause of that be?
4. When I open the choke all the way, the engine cuts out. What could the cause of that be?

Sorry if I sound like a newb because I am. Please let me know if there is anything out of the ordinary. Thanks again!
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 11:56 AM
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One thing, sounds like the throttle shaft is sticking, not completely free of gunk.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 12:02 PM
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when you choke a running engine. it will DIE OUT. yes the cord is supposed to reel back in. no there should not be gas dripping from the primer area. and the throttle linkage is still binding up. post some pics of this problem that is presenting itself unto us.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 12:09 PM
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If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)
Toro 421-E (38585) 2008 (New Owner)
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Last edited by Grunt; 07-03-2015 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Add Info
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.
You are the man there BROTHER GRUNT. you know more about those carbs then I will ever care to know.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help.

The snow blower is a Toro 824XL, Model Number: 38083 (Serial 7912088).

The snow blower was running pretty well before I touched the carb. The only thing wrong with it before was when I pushed down on the throttle, it wouldn't respond that well. I think the reason was the spring next to the throttle is old and I notice that the governor doesn't move that much as a result.

But, now that I've cleaned the carb and reset the power adjusting screw and the idle mixture screw, it seem the engine revs really really fast now. Also, when I open up the choke to let more air in, the engine dies out.

The engine dying out is probably because I need to let more gas in via the power adjusting screw and the idle mixture screw?

But, I don't know why the engine is running so fast now. Did I put the carb back together incorrectly? I didn't touch the governor or the throttle so don't know why the engine is running so fast now.

Questions

1. How can you measure if an engine is running too fast?
2. What would be causing the engine to run so fast?
3. Why does the engine die when the choke is opened? (mixture is too lean on gas?)

*I've attached a picture. I drew a orange box around the spring that looks old. When I love the throttle up and down, the carburetor linkage doesn't move that much because the spring seems a little old. Or maybe that's normal?

Do they sell replacement kits for this spring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.
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Last edited by EnjoyLife; 07-03-2015 at 01:50 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 02:51 PM
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#1- You need a small engine tachometer to accurately set the engine speed to between 3400 and a maximum of 3600 rpm.

#2- Throttle linkage sticking and needs lube?? Throttle speed adjusting screw?? See donyboy73 vide below.

#3- Engine is running to lean and with the choke closed, you restrict air and allow more gas to reach the cylinder. The low speed screw on the side of the carb is initially set to one turn out from lightly seated. The high speed screw on the bottom is set to 1 1/2 turns and both need to be adjusted after the engine is warm to optimum settings for your engine.


Carb rebuild-
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

Tecumseh engine manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...headmanual.pdf

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)
Toro 421-E (38585) 2008 (New Owner)
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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The thing I'm puzzled about is I didn't change the linkages when I cleaned the carb. So wondering why the snow blower is reving like crazy now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
#1- You need a small engine tachometer to accurately set the engine speed to between 3400 and a maximum of 3600 rpm.

#2- Throttle linkage sticking and needs lube?? Throttle speed adjusting screw?? See donyboy73 vide below.

#3- Engine is running to lean and with the choke closed, you restrict air and allow more gas to reach the cylinder. The low speed screw on the side of the carb is initially set to one turn out from lightly seated. The high speed screw on the bottom is set to 1 1/2 turns and both need to be adjusted after the engine is warm to optimum settings for your engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDe-VH4X5EA

Carb rebuild-
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

Tecumseh engine manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...headmanual.pdf
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 05:30 PM
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it could be a situation more common for two stroke engines, but does happen with some four strokes. have you ever been mowing the lawn with a push mower and just before it runs out of gas, it revs up a fair bit then dies ? as mentioned, thats what happens when a lean condition occurs.
its quite easy to remove the carb from that engine for a proper cleaning, you just need to take the intake manifold off with carb attached. take pics , mark the linkage location, etc etc.
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-03-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I tried removing the carb but one of the screws is stuck. Tried WD40 but didn't work. Wanted to hurry and clean it. But, looks like I'll have to go buy some lquid wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nwcove View Post
it could be a situation more common for two stroke engines, but does happen with some four strokes. have you ever been mowing the lawn with a push mower and just before it runs out of gas, it revs up a fair bit then dies ? as mentioned, thats what happens when a lean condition occurs.
its quite easy to remove the carb from that engine for a proper cleaning, you just need to take the intake manifold off with carb attached. take pics , mark the linkage location, etc etc.
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