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How can you clean fluid film for repainting a surface.

4K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  jtclays 
#1 ·
I have a blower that I baught that has some corrosin on the impeller housing area, I would like to take it apart, clean the corrosion and repaint it.
The blower has a slippery coat on it, I am guessing it's fluid film, how can I clean that to prepare the surface for repainting?
Thanks in advance.
 
#8 ·
Just depends on if you have a grinder and use the above or only have a cordless drill.


JT, I know it varies but about how much did it cost to have the deck blasted and was it the underside only or both sides ??
 
#6 ·
I've had sandblasting done on my last 2 refurbs and love it, but it is expensive. thinking about getting a decent home system as I continue to do more projects. The quality or the finish is so much better and pop back little pockets of rust at the seams is almost non existent with the sandblasting. The neat thing about farming out good sandblasting is they prime it almost immediately. So, relatively speaking it's not that expensive and it removes a day of spraying right away.
 
#9 ·
... lit gas on a rag is usually good at removing all kinds of stuff too.
lit gas? I know what you meant to say, but thought it was funny.

To remove the oil film for paint prep, you would need some sort of solvent vs just a wire wheel to fling it around.

I want to try fluid film some day.
Seems a little odd wanting some oil from sheep to put on my machines.
 
#12 ·
k4frog, I had a 48" JD deck done for $50. Everything removed by me so was just the shell. No repairs as it's a solid deck. I degreased it and pressure washed it first. I double taped all the stickers myself also. I had a different guy do the deck pan, but he also taped the stickers and applied the final paint for $200. I am not impressed with the final coat and was hard to contact the guy, haven't sent anything his way again. My Ariens I think I had $100 into the sandblasting with primer. Only saved the Ariens model stickers, replaced the others from clickitandstickit reproductions. That was the bucket, chute, augers, wheels and handlebar name plate. The wheels i ended up doing twice because the first time I left the old tires on. After removing the tires I wanted the inside of the wheels cleaned up. Buddy had a bead type vibration cleaner that slicked the wheels to looking new. That cost me a 12 pack:) I don't do the refurbs for flipping so the cost is relative to how I like the finish to look, not resale value. My JD project I did all the sanding, grinding, wire wheeling and primer paint. It's time consuming, hard on the back, cramps your hands and makes a mess. I think I even killed my 1/2" chuck electric drill with the rust dust getting in the motor, so was costly. It was old and served for 20 years, but almost positive the rust removal task was the cause of death. Finally bought an angle grinder and love it. Farming it out is easier, faster and cleaner for me until I get a sandblaster myself. I think it's worth twice the money for the wheels alone. Did I mention hand cramps?:facepalm_zpsdj194qh
 
#13 · (Edited)
I purchase 99 cent 20X20 furnace filters and tape them to the back of a cheap box fans and use those for ventilation. They are especially handy when welding, sanding, sweeping, spray painting ... anything that raises dust. It's not HEPA but it's cheap and it does trap a lot of the airborne crap and keeps it out of your face, off your work and from collecting as heavily as it would otherwise on everything in the area you are working in.
 

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