First time owner bought a Homelite HM520ES need maintenance tips/info. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 10-08-2015, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
First time owner bought a Homelite HM520ES need maintenance tips/info.

Hey now! I have been creeping on the forums for quite some time and finally made an account. This is my first post so take it easy on me =)

I just bought a Homelite HM520ES with Tecumseh engine off of Craigslist for $50. It looks like it is in good condition and it started up first try. The seller said he had not used it last year so it has been sitting for at least a full year with old gas.

What is the best mode of action to get it ready for the winter? Don't mind spending a few bucks to make sure it is in top running condition.


1. I assume drain all fuel and start with fresh mix? Manual states 50:1 ratio fuel to oil. Should I be using any fuel additives? What octane fuel? Regular 2 stroke oil okay or anything special I need?

2. Replace fuel filter and spark plug? I haven't looked up where to find parts but can I get a new fuel filter easily or do I have to track down a specific one? What about spark plug what should I be looking for? Manual recommends Champion CJ-8Y or equivalent.

3. Lubrication? Manual lists a few cables to hit, as well as the wheels. Anything I should be paying special attention to? What lube do you recommend? Will spray lube in a can work or do I want thick grease type lube?


Any other tips or help is greatly appreciated. I am brand new to owning a gas powered snow blower. I do have a good set of tools and I would like to learn a lot more about small engines and start working on them and being able to tinker with them. I am currently in the market for a bigger 2 stage blower and ideally would like to find an older used unit on Craigslist and do the work myself.

Thanks in advance!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2244 (Large).JPG
Views:	28
Size:	150.9 KB
ID:	58258   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2240 (Large).JPG
Views:	13
Size:	192.7 KB
ID:	58266  
Lyrical Menace is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 10-08-2015, 10:36 PM
Senior Member
 
dbert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,495
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 32
Thanks (Received): 132
Likes (Given): 200
Likes (Received): 283
Welcome LM

1. I'd say your on the right track. fresh 50:1. Any octane is fine. Most modern 2 stroke oil is probably fine. To keep it fresh just mix small amounts that you will be able to use up all of it in one season. I'm a fan of Sea Foam, but cant swear it's not snake oil with a placebo effect.

2. Does it have an inline filter, or just a screen at the bottom of the tank? I'd pull the plug and look at it, but if it looks ok dont worry about it. That champion plug can be found almost anywhere. Many here are NGK fans.

3. Id say you want a spray for most things, but not something as lightweight as WD-40. I have a can of chain lube i use for cables. Remember thick grease will be super thick in the cold.
dbert is online now  
post #3 of 11 Old 10-09-2015, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Inline fuel filter. Got it apart and drained all fuel. Cable looks a little loose where the spring is. Should I take the carb out and mess with that or leave it for now?
Lyrical Menace is offline  
post #4 of 11 Old 10-09-2015, 05:25 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 295
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 5
Thanks (Received): 4
Likes (Given): 8
Likes (Received): 18
I would definitely run some Seafoam through that carb. It's gotta be all gunked up.

And, I don't think it's snake oil, it's been around too long and too many guys swear by it.
Smolenski7 is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 10-10-2015, 06:09 AM
Super Moderator
 
bwdbrn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upper Peninsula, MI Near Manisitque
Posts: 3,149
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 553
Thanks (Received): 234
Likes (Given): 584
Likes (Received): 604
Welcome to the SBF family LM. Glad to have you join us.

You're on the right track for sure by following the owner's manual that came with it. You might just try mixing up a gallon of 50:1 at a time at first to see how quickly you use that up. Treat yourself to a new gas can just for the snow thrower, maybe, and mark it somehow to show that it is for just that. Put some Seafoam or Sta-Bil in the mix and you should be good to go. If it started up on the first try, I wouldn't say you need to take the carb off and mess with it. Don't need to make things harder than they need to be. Let us know how you like it once you get to use it.

I'm pretty much retired from the forum thing, but I check in every now and then.
bwdbrn1 is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 10-10-2015, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Thanks for the help. I spent a couple hours yesterday and got it running nice.

I bought a brand new 1 gallon gas container to use for this machine. Fresh fuel mixed with homelite 2 stroke oil. They sold it right at Home Depot it was a small container ready to go for 50:1 mix to gallon. The oil did state it has fuel stabilizers mixed in but I ended up adding the Seafoam just in case.

Replaced the spark plug and tightened up the cable. I lubed everything that the manual recommended. I used white lithium grease in a can and it seemed to be a bit messy but looks like it did the trick.

There is some rust and chipped paint on the frame. I think I will sand some of that off and apply some black paint to keep it from rusting further. Also a lot of the hardware I pulled off was rusted. I'm going to buy some new bolts/nuts/screws and replace those as well.

This was a nice little starter project for me and hopefully will help me when soon when I buy a 2 stage to fix up. I will most likely be posting when I get one so stay tuned! Thanks again.
Lyrical Menace is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 10-10-2015, 09:59 AM
Senior Member
 
Grunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New Lenox
Posts: 1,956
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 239
Thanks (Received): 281
Likes (Given): 2853
Likes (Received): 527
Lyrical. Sounds like you have everything under control, good job.

Just incase you need it, here is a link to the Tecumseh service manual for your motor

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/ma...manual1996.pdf

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)
Toro 421-E (38585) 2008 (New Owner)
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
Grunt is online now  
post #8 of 11 Old 10-18-2015, 02:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,418
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 5
Thanks (Received): 112
Likes (Given): 13
Likes (Received): 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyrical Menace View Post
Thanks for the help. I spent a couple hours yesterday and got it running nice.

I bought a brand new 1 gallon gas container to use for this machine. Fresh fuel mixed with homelite 2 stroke oil. They sold it right at Home Depot it was a small container ready to go for 50:1 mix to gallon. The oil did state it has fuel stabilizers mixed in but I ended up adding the Seafoam just in case.

Replaced the spark plug and tightened up the cable. I lubed everything that the manual recommended. I used white lithium grease in a can and it seemed to be a bit messy but looks like it did the trick.

There is some rust and chipped paint on the frame. I think I will sand some of that off and apply some black paint to keep it from rusting further. Also a lot of the hardware I pulled off was rusted. I'm going to buy some new bolts/nuts/screws and replace those as well.

This was a nice little starter project for me and hopefully will help me when soon when I buy a 2 stage to fix up. I will most likely be posting when I get one so stay tuned! Thanks again.
After you sand, prime and paint the rust spots, I think you should add a Thrush muffler decal, you know the one with the woodpecker smoking a cigar.
skutflut is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 10-18-2015, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
So I have been pretty busy and haven't had much time to work on the blower since I posted. I started it up the other day and I noticed a few things.

When the choke is on the middle "choke" position the engine stalls out. When it is all the way to the right ON position the engine runs and doesn't stall. Also the RPM seems to be a bit low. If I manually push the throttle it will rev nice and loud. Not sure if this is normal operating or what.

Video uploaded:

Last edited by Lyrical Menace; 10-18-2015 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Added video
Lyrical Menace is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 10-18-2015, 05:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Grunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New Lenox
Posts: 1,956
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 239
Thanks (Received): 281
Likes (Given): 2853
Likes (Received): 527
Hello Lyrica. Your video and notation about only running with the choke closed indicate that your engine is running to lean and is caused by dirt or dried gas blocking the holes in the idle restrictor screw (under a plastic cap on the side of the carb) and\or the bowl nut which is actually the high speed jet. I use a strand from a wire brush as a probe to clean the extremely small holes in both jets and flushing with carb cleaner followed by an air blast from a compressor. You could try running some Seafoam in your gas and "hope" it cleans the jets or do a cleaning as stated above. Here is a link to what needs to be done.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Series 1 Emission Carb 640084B

Your engine speed sounds to be in the correct range and the governor will kick in under load to increase the rpm's as needed.

Note: The idle restrictor on the side of the carb is non adjustable. After cleaning, snug the jet all the way down. Also, if you damage the plastic cap when removing, it is only to keep dirt off and will not affect engine operation if torn or left off.

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)
Toro 421-E (38585) 2008 (New Owner)
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Last edited by Grunt; 10-18-2015 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Add Info
Grunt is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome