Auger Case Drain Plug Rusted in - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Auger Case Drain Plug Rusted in

Hi guys, I have greased and oiled my Simplicity 860 dlx as per the owners manual instructions. However I wanted to change out the auger wormgear oil only to find the drain plug being rusted in. Even the outside of the plug had rust on it. I have CRC'd the crap out of the threads but of course its only getting to the exposed threads and not penetrating past that. Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!!!
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post #2 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 06:41 PM
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[QUOTE=daddy128j;752722] Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
QUOTE]

One member here I think Liftoff mentions you could try to heat the plug then spray some PB Blaster on the thread as when cooling down the PB Blaster will penetrate deeper in the threads. Try this and report back.

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Last edited by Normex; 11-18-2015 at 06:50 PM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Auger Case Drain Plug Rusted in

Hi guys, I recently picked up a Simplicity 860 DLX at an estate sale. It looks and runs like new. I have greased and oiled as per the owners manual instructions. However I wanted to change out the auger wormgear oil only to find the drain plug being rusted in. Even the outside of the plug had rust on it. I have CRC'd the crap out of the threads but of course its only getting to the exposed threads and not penetrating past that. Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!!!
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post #4 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 06:52 PM
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Agree with Normex, I'm a big PB Blaster fan....sometimes magical in the results.

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post #5 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 07:22 PM
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I like using a pencil flame propane torch to break free rusted nuts and bolts. When I removed the skids on the old Toro 524 I showed my son how spraying with PB Blaster for days on end resulted in busted carriage bolts on the first skid. However on the rest, heating them for just a few seconds with the torch and the nuts came right off.

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post #6 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 08:26 PM
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better use a little heat on the subject at hand.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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My neighbor has some PB Buster Penetrating Oil Catalyst but neither of us have a torch. I am going to try the Penetrating oil and let it soak overnite. Maybe give it another application tomorrow and a couple bangs from a hammer if the first app does nothing. If after a couple days it still does not break loose, I will pickup a propane torch and give that a try. Hopefully I won't have to use a torch as I have never had any experience with one at all lol!!! I'm sure that residual penetrating oil left on the threads is flammable. Hopefully I wont find out the hard way!!!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!!!
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post #8 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 08:33 PM
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Good Suggestions So Far!
In addition to heat and sprays!
Old Machinist trick.
On the really tuff situations,(usually on longer threaded bolts) I Also Like to treat a sensitive bolt like a tap. Reverse your direction on occasion to allow the rust and other debris to crumble and a little more breathing room for your threads to cut through! You can generally feel if its still hard. This can sometimes avoid breaking a bolt!!
Cheers.

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post #9 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddy128j View Post
My neighbor has some PB Buster Penetrating Oil Catalyst but neither of us have a torch. I am going to try the Penetrating oil and let it soak overnite. Maybe give it another application tomorrow and a couple bangs from a hammer if the first app does nothing. If after a couple days it still does not break loose, I will pickup a propane torch and give that a try. Hopefully I won't have to use a torch as I have never had any experience with one at all lol!!! I'm sure that residual penetrating oil left on the threads is flammable. Hopefully I wont find out the hard way!!!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!!!

Pick up a bernzomatic propane torch at the hardware store. Get the one with the instant light push button igniter if it is available with a pencil flame tip. It regulate the flame better that the one with the variable valve. The flame on those variable valve units can vary depending on how you hold the cylinder and you can go from a 1" flame to a 4" without notice.

They are cheap and really handy for this type of problem and little plumbing emergencies. MPAA gas torch is more money, but maybe too hot for what you need to do although it does much better on the plumbing jobs if the fittings get bigger.

Last edited by skutflut; 11-18-2015 at 08:53 PM.
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post #10 of 29 Old 11-18-2015, 09:03 PM
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There is an old trick that works pretty good on rusted bolts & brake bleeder
screws. Use a torch, gas & o2 get it glowing red and throw an ice cold wet rag or towel on it . Works every time!!


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Last edited by loneraider; 11-18-2015 at 09:06 PM.
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