toggle plate screw found on top of piston - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-21-2015, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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toggle plate screw found on top of piston

I posted on this earlier in fall when I found the carburetor plate had been sucked up into the intake and today I took the head off and found the small screw that held the plate was on top of the piston as can been seen in the pics. It had stopped the piston from moving when it reached TDC, also first bounced around a bit making a few other dents in both piston and head. I am a newbie at motors but the exhaust valve was either warped or now bent by the screw. I'm inclined to think already warped as there are no nicks from the screw. Now am faced with what to do about valve... I guess replace from the little I have started to research on Youtube ? This 8 hp tecusmeh was a gift from a friend along with the old snow blower when it quit, so seems like good place learn. Comments welcome!

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post #2 of 6 Old 11-21-2015, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AL- View Post
I posted on this earlier in fall when I found the carburetor plate had been sucked up into the intake and today I took the head off and found the small screw that held the plate was on top of the piston as can been seen in the pics. It had stopped the piston from moving when it reached TDC, also first bounced around a bit making a few other dents in both piston and head. I am a newbie at motors but the exhaust valve was either warped or now bent by the screw. I'm inclined to think already warped as there are no nicks from the screw. Now am faced with what to do about valve... I guess replace from the little I have started to research on Youtube ? This 8 hp tecusmeh was a gift from a friend along with the old snow blower when it quit, so seems like good place learn. Comments welcome!

As long as you don't need the engine right now, why not take a crack at rebuilding it, as long as it is not cost prohibitive.

You will want to open it and make sure nothing inside is broken, like the connecting rod, cam shaft, lifters, governor and any other bits and pieces. look carefully in the crankcase for any bits of shrapnel, then find the source. Check for cracks in the block and head around the crankcase, and valve area. It looks like both valves are open. Did you remove the keepers or is the exhaust valve jammed open?

I would say that at the very least, you need a piston, valves, maybe springs,guides and seats, and possibly a head, and maybe a carb, assuming nothing else is broken. Then a complete set of gaskets, and a torque wrench. Might be an expensive project.

Work fascinates me.
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2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 11-21-2015 at 09:52 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-23-2015, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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The exhaust valve opens but doesn't close, leaves a .050 +clearance and the spec's call for a .012 The intake has no measureable clearance but closes tight enough so that I can not turn it around by hand. The intake has only one spring cap on the bottom and has what seems like a white nylon type bushing inside spring and the spring itself seems to push on the top of the casting I am not familiar this setup but in the parts manual the exhaust has "cap" and the intake has a '' seal assembly" at the tops. I'm thinking of grinding off intake to the .008 spec. clearance. As a start on the exhaust I thought I'd buy a new valve and see how it fits. If the "seal assembly" is replaceable for the intake, should I replace this to keep a tight fit? I have a torque wrench but guess I'll have to borrow/buy a spring compressor.

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post #4 of 6 Old 11-30-2015, 10:13 PM
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How are you getting along with this project? How about the engine case, any damage in there that makes it a no-go?

Did you get the valves out yet? You will have a big gap on the exhaust valve because its not closed. Should be some gap (see manual) for intake to ensure its closed during the power stroke. No gap says it might not be sealed.

If you have to order parts, get all the bits and pieces specified in the manual for each valve, so you are looking at them, instead of looking for them.

Take a good look at the valve seats while its apart, and if you put in new valves, replace them if it's possible, and lap the valves to the seats either way, before grinding anything to get the clearance right.

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 11-30-2015 at 10:17 PM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-01-2015, 10:04 AM
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If this is a single shaft motor, places like HF have a 6 hp that many have used as a replacement engine on quite a few machines. It can be had for under $100 typically and sometimes can use the 20% off coupon too.

Another is to find a junk blower with a decent engine and transplant it to this chassis.

That would give you a working blower and time to think about what you want to do with the old motor.

Just a thought.
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-03-2015, 11:23 PM
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you'll just have to wait till someone posts an ad for a Tecumseh Hm80 with a blown rod and ask for the valves out of it.

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