Single Stage Intermittant Auger - Please Help ! - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Single Stage Intermittant Auger - Please Help !

Hello !

I got a new Cub Cadet 221 LHP last year. It was from Waldo Implement in Wisconsin. I bought it over the internet and what a disaster. It had a bent frame when I received it and I ended up having to take it to a local shop to be fixed (frame replacement)...under warranty thank god. But that is another story.

After it was repaired, I used it throughout last winter. It performed flawlessly until the last snow fall of the season. Then the auger had no power. The engine would not bog down at all, just no power was getting to the auger.

This past summer I took it to a local shop (Hellebuyck's). They told me it was a belt problem and that it had to be replaced and belts are not covered under warranty. So, I had them replace it. Took it home, and the auger spinned so I put it away (no snow to test with).

First snow of the year comes, the auger spins but has very little power. I took it back and they told me there was a problem when they put the belt cover on and they had to fix it, so they fixed it w/o charge.

2nd snow of the year comes, now I have intermittant power of the auger. When it blows, it blows really good. But after doing about 1/4 of my driveway, the auger will suddenly have low power. It spins but w/o much force, I can even stop it with my boot. After fiddling around with the bail to disengage/engage the auger, it seems to come back for a period of time but then power is lost again. I have adjusted the idler pully cable to put is much pressure on the belt as I can.

Can anyone here give me some advice? I am tired of going back to the repair shop! My next planned step is to try blowing some snow with the belt cover off to see if I can understand what is going on with the drive system. My guess is that some how the belt is jumping on/off or there is water getting on it. But, the cover seems like it should keep out most snow!
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 02:15 PM
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I was also thinking maybe something is getting wet and slipping.

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post #3 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your feedback!

The other day I was looking at the idler pulley. It seemed like when I engaged and disengaged the bail, it wanted to make the belt come off the drive pulley but it was hard to tell without the blower being on.

I will have to look at the bracket it is on and see if it somehow got bent to put the pulley out of position.

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 03:29 PM
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Does the baler take up the slack so the belt is snug when the clutch is engaged? Do this test with the engine off.

See if you can find a part number on the belt. Maybe the one they put on is too long, or too narrow. Also make sure the pulleys are not slipping on the shafts, and the bolts are tight. Maybe they forgot to put a key back in. Any serious side to side slop on the auger shart?

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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I did verify the belt is the correct p/n and the baler does appear to take out the slack. I did think about how I might increase the tension on the baler cable, though, but couldn't think of anything. How should I check the pulleys are tight and the keys are good? Never noticed lateral slop in the auger but I will check that too. Thank you so much for taking the time to help! !!
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClockerXP View Post
I did verify the belt is the correct p/n and the baler does appear to take out the slack. I did think about how I might increase the tension on the baler cable, though, but couldn't think of anything. How should I check the pulleys are tight and the keys are good? Never noticed lateral slop in the auger but I will check that too. Thank you so much for taking the time to help! !!
Check your manual, Section 7 page 16 to see how to change a belt. You remove the bolt on the auger shaft, and the pulley comes off with the belt. It has what appears to be a splined hole that mates with the auger shaft so nothing can spin loose on that unless the bolt is loose and the pulley is wobbling. The engine pulley should now be easy to check since the belt is off. Remove the spark plug cap, and grab the pulley and see if it rotates on the engine shaft. It should not.

You could remove the bolt from the end of the engine shaft and the pulley would come off so you can make sure the key is in there, and not sheared . That's kind of a long shot, unless you remember hitting anything like a news paper, rock, dog or kid toys, but you have an odd problem, so might be worth a peak. Also make sure when its all back together, that the pulleys and idler all line up straight and the belt is not running on an angle, maybe use a straight edge which should end up touching both pulleys on both edges of each. The back of the belt should be running roughly in the centre of the idler.

With the original transport damage, do you know what exactly what was replaced? Frame could be a lot or not much. I wonder if they took the engine off and maybe got it back on crooked, or not tightened up properly. Sounds like still more things to check I have not thought of, depending how much it was torn down to fix.

There really is not that much to go wrong there, unless the original repairs of the shipping damage missed something that is still bent. You might also want to try running the engine with the belt off and see if the crank shaft runs true. Keep fingers and neckties and loose articles of clothing and kids and critters out of the way while this is going on.

Just to confirm also that you have the idler pulley riding ON TOP of the belt, (running on the back side of the belt) and not under it, correct?

Not sure about your clutch cable, but ther might be an adjustment screw, located inside the big spring. You would have to remove the Z fitting and slide the cable down through the spring and see if there is a lock blot and threaded fitting there. Didn't see any mention of an adjustment in that location in the manual, but it could be there, or not. Page 14 mentions two positions for the Z fitting on the cable top end, upper and lower holes. You can get some adjustment there.

Also take a look at part # 27, attached to part #37 in your diagram. That eye pin seems to be what pulls the idler down into contact with the belt when you engage the clutch. If you follow back, that eye attaches to the pin #8 that holds the idler wheel and assorted hardware with the net result that when you pull the bale, you apply downward pressure on the idler, belt tightens, and auger spins. See if the idler is able to twist off axis out of perpendicular to the belt. Might be that insert in the idler wheel is bad.

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2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 01-12-2016 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Added another trouble shooting point.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! SO...I pulled off the cover. Inside I found a small amount of snow at the front and some at the rear as well (in the bottom of the cover, front & back). Step two was, with the cover removed, I went a blew some snow. Worked fine, until I threw some snow at the forward pulley. Then the low power symptom was identical to the original problem and resolved itself in a similar way after allowing the snow/water to dissipate!!

As a result I believe snow ingestion is the problem. Looking at the cover some more, I noticed that there was a tab that looked like it was there for a bolt attachment but no hole was there. There was a hole in the frame of the blower, in the exact spot, like an attachment was supposed to be there but nothing on the plastic. When I moved the cover into position with the hole it closed the gap at the front of the cover that could easily take in snow a lot. There was still a small gap there but nothing like without the cover adjusted. So, I drilled a hole in the cover, right in the middle of the tab in line with the hole on the frame & drove a fastener. With the gap only about 1/8 of an inch now instead of about 1/2-3/4" it was before, I squirted a little Great Stuff in the gap for good measure. Now I just have to wait for another snow fall. Hopefully it works.

Here is a link to a picture of the cover. You can see the tab at the bottom but there is no hole in it! I work in engineering/design...there is no reason for that tab to be there other than some type of fastener (otherwise it is a waste of material and die size), so I think I found a design oops by Cub Cadet, especially since there was a existing hole in the metal of the frame!

http://www.rcappliancepartsimages.co...A-01715241.jpg

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 07:02 PM
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I have a single stage I grabbed from the tree lawn a couple years back and last year I had some snow melt on the top of it and then run down to the carb and freeze behind the governor linkage and cause issues. Guess if yours is fixing itself right away ice on the idler pulley isn't quite your problem though.

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-12-2016, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClockerXP View Post
Thanks! SO...I pulled off the cover. Inside I found a small amount of snow at the front and some at the rear as well (in the bottom of the cover, front & back). Step two was, with the cover removed, I went a blew some snow. Worked fine, until I threw some snow at the forward pulley. Then the low power symptom was identical to the original problem and resolved itself in a similar way after allowing the snow/water to dissipate!!

As a result I believe snow ingestion is the problem. Looking at the cover some more, I noticed that there was a tab that looked like it was there for a bolt attachment but no hole was there. There was a hole in the frame of the blower, in the exact spot, like an attachment was supposed to be there but nothing on the plastic. When I moved the cover into position with the hole it closed the gap at the front of the cover that could easily take in snow a lot. There was still a small gap there but nothing like without the cover adjusted. So, I drilled a hole in the cover, right in the middle of the tab in line with the hole on the frame & drove a fastener. With the gap only about 1/8 of an inch now instead of about 1/2-3/4" it was before, I squirted a little Great Stuff in the gap for good measure. Now I just have to wait for another snow fall. Hopefully it works.

Here is a link to a picture of the cover. You can see the tab at the bottom but there is no hole in it! I work in engineering/design...there is no reason for that tab to be there other than some type of fastener (otherwise it is a waste of material and die size), so I think I found a design oops by Cub Cadet, especially since there was a existing hole in the metal of the frame!

http://www.rcappliancepartsimages.co...A-01715241.jpg
Sounds like you have the problem figured out. I would be careful with that great stuff foam that it doesn't go in places you don't want it. Maybe try some kind of sealant that you could apply around the perimeter of the cover, let it cure, maybe 1/8 thick, or the thickness of the gap, the put the cover back on and you have a semi permanent gasket so you don't have to do the great stuff every time you have that cover off for maintenance etc.?

Really odd however that they would mould in a tab for nothing. Was there a slot maybe that the tab should have been hooked into just above the hole in the sheet metal?

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 01-12-2016 at 07:09 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-13-2016, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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There was no slot on the frame but there was an existing hole that appears to use a similar thread cutting bolt that is used in many other places. Luckily, I had a augur paddle kit with the exact same bolts that I could steal one from.
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