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Location: Chicago
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Toro 522 leaking oil
I'm having a problem with a Toro 522 38605 leaking oil from the engine shaft.
I bought this on Craigslist over the summer and it's the first snowblower I've owned so I'm finding my way around.
We had some really wet snow in Chicago a few weeks ago and it was struggling with that and it kept getting blocked so I decided to do some maintenance.
I changed the oil (5W 30 synthetic) and replaced the spark plug and I was planning on replacing the auger and traction belts. I was also planning on installing an impeller kit to improve the performance on heavy snow.
After the oil change I noticed that it was leaking oil so I assumed I'd over filled it as it looked like there was oil coming out of the rubber tube near the carburetor. So I drained some oil out and then stood the snowblower against the wall so that I could take the panel under the engine off and clean out all of the leaked oil.
That's when I noticed that the oil is actually leaking out through the engine shaft. I took the belt cover off and there was a lot of oil in there and when I started the engine I could see that it was throwing a little oil from the shaft while it's running.
I'm guessing that some kind of oil seal has failed somewhere. How easy is this to fix and what kind of cost is likely? I'm debating whether to try and do this myself or find a repair place.
The photo was just after it had been leaning on the wall and you can see the line of oil coming from the shaft.
I bought this on Craigslist over the summer and it's the first snowblower I've owned so I'm finding my way around.
We had some really wet snow in Chicago a few weeks ago and it was struggling with that and it kept getting blocked so I decided to do some maintenance.
I changed the oil (5W 30 synthetic) and replaced the spark plug and I was planning on replacing the auger and traction belts. I was also planning on installing an impeller kit to improve the performance on heavy snow.
After the oil change I noticed that it was leaking oil so I assumed I'd over filled it as it looked like there was oil coming out of the rubber tube near the carburetor. So I drained some oil out and then stood the snowblower against the wall so that I could take the panel under the engine off and clean out all of the leaked oil.
That's when I noticed that the oil is actually leaking out through the engine shaft. I took the belt cover off and there was a lot of oil in there and when I started the engine I could see that it was throwing a little oil from the shaft while it's running.
I'm guessing that some kind of oil seal has failed somewhere. How easy is this to fix and what kind of cost is likely? I'm debating whether to try and do this myself or find a repair place.
The photo was just after it had been leaning on the wall and you can see the line of oil coming from the shaft.
Last edited by bigtrev; 01-15-2016 at 12:01 AM. Reason: Corrected image URL
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PARADISE CITY, MN
Posts: 9,131
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That is no easy UNDERTAKING there. if you do not feel comfy doing that. best to take it in.
Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Albany, New York
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it's an inexpensive fix...the only tools you need are the basic hand tools (standard socket set, ratchet, etc.) as well as a torque wrench for when you reconnect the connecting-rod & button-up the sump cover. You'll probably need a puller to remove the belt pulley. I have a Lisle seal removal tool but they're not completely necessary...you just have to be careful not to mar the outer seal surface or the races that support the crankshaft.
You'll need 2 seals (I recommend replacing the other crank seal under the flywheel.) Both seals should be less than $10 shipped to your door.
You'll also need a sump cover gasket which is also inexpensive.
Make sure that both ends of the crankshaft is clean of burrs & rust...I like to hit them with marvel mystery oil & emery cloth...if the burrs are large, you'll want to file them down. You don't want to score those aluminum races.
I like the block to be tipped back so that the sump cover is facing up...make sure the camshaft/gear stay put & doesn't walk-out with the sump cover as you're removing it. If the cam comes out, the valve lifters will likely fall out; if both fall out, it's somewhat of a guessing game which is exhaust & intake.
Oh...and don't forget to DRAIN the oil before starting
You'll need 2 seals (I recommend replacing the other crank seal under the flywheel.) Both seals should be less than $10 shipped to your door.
You'll also need a sump cover gasket which is also inexpensive.
Make sure that both ends of the crankshaft is clean of burrs & rust...I like to hit them with marvel mystery oil & emery cloth...if the burrs are large, you'll want to file them down. You don't want to score those aluminum races.
I like the block to be tipped back so that the sump cover is facing up...make sure the camshaft/gear stay put & doesn't walk-out with the sump cover as you're removing it. If the cam comes out, the valve lifters will likely fall out; if both fall out, it's somewhat of a guessing game which is exhaust & intake.
Oh...and don't forget to DRAIN the oil before starting
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Last edited by classiccat; 01-18-2016 at 12:24 AM. Reason: update in blue
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Location: Chicago
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Thanks for the info!
Sounds like it could be a good project. I'll get some parts ordered and give it a go.
Sounds like it could be a good project. I'll get some parts ordered and give it a go.
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