Anyone have a manual for a Briggs 725ex? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have a manual for a Briggs 725ex?

Hey guys, I have done some searching online and it seems like Briggs doesn't post its engine manuals online for some reason.

I am looking for a engine manual for a 725ex I have on a Brute lawnmower (made by Murray I believe). I can find the operators manual, the engine operation manual, but nothing in regards to a service manual for the engine itself.

I know, this is a snowblower forum, but I figure that a lot of guys "in the small engine biz" might be around and may be able to help me out.
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post #2 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 11:52 AM
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Should be able to get one here with the info off the mower Dennis Find Your Briggs & Stratton Manual: Small Engines




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post #3 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 11:57 AM
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Hello Dennis. This is as close as I can find. I hope it helps.

Manual

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post #4 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I will give the first lookup a shot... If I remember correctly, I did in the past and it didn't reference.

The second link is a different set of engines, thanks though, much appreciated.

I have a larger issue to deal with right now on it... Since I was going to stop at Farm and Fleet I decided to pull the plug to check the number on it... It came out kinda "sticky", as in it seemed liked it was gooped up or something. I check the plug, looks ok, check the plug boss, looks ok... Put the plug in, goes in OK... Go to tighten it and it won't tighten, all I get is the ever-feel of some stripped threads...

So I pull the plug and pull this nice coil of threads out as one piece... I have never had that happen on a OPE engine before. Only on a car head that has been abused by a previous owner (and I didn't buy the POS I was working on, just helping a friend out).

So, I guess I will be picking up a rethreading kit while I am Farm and Fleet. Any major concerns with aluminum shavings in the engine because of the pulled threads or the re-threading? I plan on packing the flutes of the tap with heavy grease before tapping anyways.

Hmmm... Maybe I should take this as a sign to upgrade the lawnmower??? There was a nice 42" Cub Cadet zero-turn rider at Farm and Fleet that will fit through the back gate...
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post #5 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisP View Post
Thanks guys, I will give the first lookup a shot... If I remember correctly, I did in the past and it didn't reference.

The second link is a different set of engines, thanks though, much appreciated.

I have a larger issue to deal with right now on it... Since I was going to stop at Farm and Fleet I decided to pull the plug to check the number on it... It came out kinda "sticky", as in it seemed liked it was gooped up or something. I check the plug, looks ok, check the plug boss, looks ok... Put the plug in, goes in OK... Go to tighten it and it won't tighten, all I get is the ever-feel of some stripped threads...

So I pull the plug and pull this nice coil of threads out as one piece... I have never had that happen on a OPE engine before. Only on a car head that has been abused by a previous owner (and I didn't buy the POS I was working on, just helping a friend out).

So, I guess I will be picking up a rethreading kit while I am Farm and Fleet. Any major concerns with aluminum shavings in the engine because of the pulled threads or the re-threading? I plan on packing the flutes of the tap with heavy grease before tapping anyways.

Hmmm... Maybe I should take this as a sign to upgrade the lawnmower??? There was a nice 42" Cub Cadet zero-turn rider at Farm and Fleet that will fit through the back gate...

Take the head off when you rethread. Get a spare head gasket, and valve cover gasket.

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post #6 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I was just being lazy and didn't even look at the head configuration before I just assumed I would try to do it with the head on. I only need to buy a head gasket for this setup, so all is good.

I bought a Powerbuilt 14mm Cylinder Head Rethreader Kit from Farm and Fleet for $9, only to find out the smallest insert is exactly the size of the plug threads WITHOUT THE GASKET! I mean what good does that do??? If I used that **** thing the plug would be recessed into the plug bore by 1/16", and on a flush-plug like these are (ie, only the electrode tip and the ground strap are in the cylinder) I can only imagine how that could screw up the combustion process.

So, I spent some time (more than I should have) looking for a longer plug to overcome the distance, considered pulling the gasket off a new plug (PITA and it wouldn't seal then) and came to the realization that for shorter plugs/heads like this, there has to be a better solution.

Well, Heli-coil and Perma-Plug make the same identical kit for this. So I ordered up the Perma-Plug since I got a deal with a "Best Offer" on ebay. Next I will find the best price on the 590411 head gasket and get that ordered as well.

I did consider jut buying a new head, except that I know I didn't abuse this one (swapped plugs all of 3 times since I bought it in 2012, with this being the 4th time I pulled a plug) and I was worried I would buy a new head and end up with the same kind of problem. This way I know it is fixed and I won't run into this again.
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-04-2016, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, I forgot to mention, I did find the parts breakdown and users manual for the engine I have on that Briggs site. Still no technical manuals though.

For reference the Model # is: 128M02-0115-F1
The mower Model # is: 7800883

I really need to find a way to put metal sleeves into the wheels on this thing... They have no sleeves and are just plastic on the axles, thus they wallow out within a year or two. I can't see spending $80 on new wheels every 3 years. I also remember reading about how people are complaining the rear wheels break around the axles, even though mine haven't. I guess there is an upgraded wheel to correct that.
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