tecumseh carb leaking, no fixes have worked. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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tecumseh carb leaking, no fixes have worked.

Ariens 7524 with Tecumseh oh195 engine
The Tecumseh motor on my Ariens started surging last year so I rebuilt the carb. it now runs great but was leaking gas our of the drain on the float bowl. (series 1 emission carb). I bought a new bowl without a drain plug and installed it. The carb was leaking just enough gas to make my garage smell like gas. I installed a new o-ring between the float bowl and carb and it got worse. This is what I have tried to stop leak.
1.removed drain from original bowl and plugged it with screw head and jb weld. reinstalled it.
2. adjusted float to 11/64 and made sure needle clip was pointing correct way.
3. checked float in sink to make sure it wasn't leaking.
4. replaced needle, seat, gaskets, making sure seat had groove toward carb body. adjusted the float to 7/32
the carb still leaks around the gasket between carb and float bowl. and gas goes up primer tube.
I have searched and can't find anything else to try so I would appreciate any help from an expert

Last edited by sscotsman; 03-04-2016 at 11:39 AM. Reason: added in drew's info from other post.
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 12:05 PM
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If the carb is overflowing and leaking, there has to be a problem with the float level setting, or the needle valve not seating properly when the float is all the way up. You said you confirmed that the float is not leaking and full of gas. Removing the drain screw won't solve the problem. The leaking O ring indicates there may be damage to the ring or junk somewhere around the sealing surfaces, however, that still doesn't solve the problem of the needle valve not sealing properly and allowing fuel to continually flow into the bowl.

When the float rises up with gas in the bowl, it lifts the needle valve into the fuel orifice to seal it off. If it doesn't seal, gas keeps coming into the bowl and it will drip, and possibly flow up the main jet, into the intake port and leak through the intake valve, and end up in the crankcase.

Check the oil level and see if its too high, and the oil smells like gas. If so, change the oil.

You did not mention if you have a fuel shutoff valve on your engine. If not, install one which will take care of the problem until you have time to recheck the carb.

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Last edited by skutflut; 03-03-2016 at 12:09 PM.
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 12:07 PM
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maybe this is too simple, but:

Quote:
the carb still leaks around the gasket between carb and float bowl.
but it sounds like a bad gasket..you said you replaced it once already, and it got worse..its possible you replaced it with one that wasn't quite the right size..or bad quality control from China can result in brand-new items being junk..I would try another gasket, that sounds like the most likely culprit.

Scot


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Last edited by sscotsman; 03-03-2016 at 12:16 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 12:29 PM
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If you have gas going up or leaking out the primer nipple with the line off you definitely have a float or needle/seat issue. Even though they are new they might be bad or the wrong parts for the carb or not properly installed.

Might not be the bowl gasket leaking but gas leaking down onto it.

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post #5 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 01:30 PM
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i doubt the gaskets are bad. did you clean up the surface where the gasket meets the carb body? its often corroded
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 02:10 PM
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^^ exactly..... fought that to many time to count. You may have to sand/grind it smooth. That's why I often encourage people to just cough up the $20 for the China carb on ebay delivered ready to go. Have not had any trouble with those.....




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post #7 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 03:23 PM
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Agree with

bad69cat

I only paid 12 for my ebay china carb. A Techumseh branded gasket set for the carb was 6 at my local shop. Then I needed a new float as well, mine was sinking. I was so disgusted with it I got 2 china carbs in case one did not work. It worked fine though and the motor runs better than it has in years even with my past carb cleanings.

I might start taking the carb off the blower for the summer, spray inside it with WD40 and keep the carb in the house.

The new carb is adjustable and has a bowl drain as well.
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post #8 of 14 Old 03-03-2016, 10:19 PM
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It may be as simple as the tiny little vent hole being plugged, run a tag wire through it.
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-04-2016, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad69cat View Post
^^ exactly..... fought that to many time to count. You may have to sand/grind it smooth. That's why I often encourage people to just cough up the $20 for the China carb on ebay delivered ready to go. Have not had any trouble with those.....

+1 here on the repops. Not Made in USA, but a Cost Effective Solution. To Me, Coughing up a few bucks for a guaranteed solution is a no-brainer.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-04-2016, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad69cat View Post
^^ exactly..... fought that to many time to count. You may have to sand/grind it smooth. That's why I often encourage people to just cough up the $20 for the China carb on ebay delivered ready to go. Have not had any trouble with those.....
Agreed. I fought with a carb on a 6 hp Tecumseh on an old tiller that just would not work well. I bought the Chinese carb and had to do a bit of modding to adapt it to my tiller controls (choke handle needed to be reversed - should not be an issue on a snowblower). The motor fired up on the first pull of the starter rope and has run well ever since. That relief of frustration is easily worth the $20 IMO.

Adam
Flathead Valley, MT

1980 Ariens ST824
1990s Toro CCR1000
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