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post #1 of 10 Old 03-10-2016, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Tec starters

I found a guy selling some starters but they look different. Supposedly one is 7HP and the other 8 - 10HP. Any idea which is which?
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'77 Ariens 924032 "Brick House" Re-Powered with a TEC 10HP and oversize auger pulley
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-10-2016, 09:36 AM
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Looks like there is a little confusion on what fits a 7hp. I'm not the starter expert but these starters seem to overlap on 7 horse where you need to know the model number of the 7hp to figure out which one.
So one is a 5-7 and the other is a 7-10

https://www.millsupply.com/electric-...82.php?p=42326

https://www.millsupply.com/electric-...76.php?p=42324

In your picture the one on the left with the offset mounts would be for the bigger engines. IMHO

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-10-2016, 09:41 AM
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The one on the left is 8-10hp, The one on the right is 6-7 hp. Most of the 5hp are 3 bolt configuration, except very early ones
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-10-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!! I'll need offset. Now if I can find an offset 12V starter...

'77 Ariens 924032 "Brick House" Re-Powered with a TEC 10HP and oversize auger pulley
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-10-2016, 08:01 PM
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Tec Starters

Yes, I agree.

The one on the right looks identical to the starter on a 6HP Tec I have for my 73 Ariens.

1969 Ariens Model No. 10962 Serial No. 000971 with H70-130067 and RATO 212cc OHV Engines

1973 Ariens Model No. 910006 Serial No. 009643 with H60-75362J Engine
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-11-2016, 05:53 AM
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Pretty much nailed them. One thing, the left one comes with shoulder bolts for the upper mounts.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-14-2016, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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This ought to do the trick. I'll put studs in the block to make sure I get the best grip in the block.




'77 Ariens 924032 "Brick House" Re-Powered with a TEC 10HP and oversize auger pulley
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-15-2016, 09:26 AM
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Sometimes the brackets will be bent and the gears won't engage correctly and grind especially on the 8-10 hp starters. You can narrow the clearance with a few hammer taps on the forward ridge after mounting the starter if necessary.
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-16-2016, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nt40lanman View Post
This ought to do the trick. I'll put studs in the block to make sure I get the best grip in the block.

Amazon.com: Starter Tecumseh HM70 HM80 HM90 HM100 AM30931 33202 35763 35876 5749: Automotive
You need more than just studs, you need the head of a bolt to hold the starter mounts down so it doesn't move or twist when the starter is engaged. Better course of action would be a 1/4" bolt with a small sleeve to fill the gap in those 2 mount tabs. I made a couple the other year using some left over parts from something with the right o.d. on them. I had to drill out the center hole and cut them to length. I screwed up more than I succeeded on but eventually got 2 useable ones.
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-16-2016, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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I just mentioned studs because I can screw them all the way into the block, then use nuts to hold it down. More secure and protecting the crappy block holes. I didn't think about sleeves, though. I'll have to see what the holes in the starter look like.

'77 Ariens 924032 "Brick House" Re-Powered with a TEC 10HP and oversize auger pulley
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