A different kind of stuck-auger question - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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A different kind of stuck-auger question

Folks,

Now that I'm done restoring the daylights out of my ST1032 it's time for the ST824 to get some love. And one area in which it needs love is freeing one auger that's stuck on the shaft (the other one is okay).

I know there's a lot of discussion on that issue here but one aspect I haven't seen much on is: how do you hold the shaft as you try to work the auger loose?

The ST1032 has one of the cast-iron gearboxes that's as tough as a brick personal-waste-management-station but the 824 has one of the wussy aluminum ones. So I think on this one using the gearbox to hold the shaft from turning is out.

Does anyone have any ideas?

~1994 Ariens 924084 (ST1032) "papa bear": restored, re-engined, real nice!
1991 Ariens 924050 (ST824) "mama bear"
Toro PowerCurve 1800 "baby bear"

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 01:48 PM
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I'd put a long 2x4 (blower assembled, 2x4 against the floor) on the "non-stuck" auger with a grade 8 bolt installed instead of the shear pin, then use another long 2x4 on the stuck auger and try to spin it (it might work), I've never done it but I just thought it may work

Set the 2x4s on the most outer auger "rakes", this way the gearbox should be safe from any damage.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 03:09 PM
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how about some heat?

think you could heat up the auger tube quick enough with acetylene or even MAPP gas torch to break the rust without harming the bearing or auger gear box shaft? the auger tubing being thinner might heat up without harming the surrounding parts. don't think a propane torch would get hot enough, fast enough to not heat everything up evenly which is exactly what you don't want.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 03:46 PM
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Have an Auger Shaft and Rake available nearby. $30 for both. If you want to save Your Time and Aggravation, send PM
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 04:02 PM
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Spray PB blaster in both ends and the shear bolt hole for a day or so.
I've used big monkey wrenches with pieces of pipe over the handles. Two guys working against each other, slide the clamshell apart off the removed side and pull the impeller worm, you won't hurt anything. You can clean up the teeth marks later with a grinder. Those old Ariens and JD's have VERY thick auger tubes and take a very long time to heat up. I can't see anything but acetylene working on them for heat. I just did a Craftsman 30" with one side very stuck in an electrolysis tank and it actually worked. The augers weren't up to the monkey wrench method with cheater bars IMO so I finally tried the tank and electric charge. Left it over night and next day I sprayed more PB from the edge as it was standing and it dripped out the bottom edge within seconds. Couple twists with the monkey wrenches and it was rotating freely.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for all the suggestions!

I don't really want to use heat because the paint on the auger is actually in really good shape, and using a torch would ruin it. I've also had bad luck using heat in general - on the 1032 which had the same problem, a welder friend and I used an acetylene torch and ended up getting it so hot the shaft softened and distorted and never managed to get the auger loose.

I'm thinking I might use a hybrid of some of your suggestions and clamp the shaft into a vise and put a pin through the other shear pin hole as an extra measure to keep it from spinning. That'll let me tighten the vise a little less and hopefully not mangle the shaft too much.

Oh and Jack, thanks for the offer but right now I have more time and aggravation available than I have money.

~1994 Ariens 924084 (ST1032) "papa bear": restored, re-engined, real nice!
1991 Ariens 924050 (ST824) "mama bear"
Toro PowerCurve 1800 "baby bear"

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post #7 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELaw View Post
I have more time and aggravation available than I have money.
...... some times we can all run into that wall....
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 04:23 PM
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Elaw,
Check this thread, there is an interesting procedure described on it...
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...hs80-hs55.html

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post #9 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 04:51 PM
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The electrolysis tank cost me about $4 for the laundry soap
Old rubbermaid tub, wire I had laying around from when my parents got a standby gen set. Piece of rebar we used for tomato plants and a battery charger.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-06-2016, 10:31 PM
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Does that one still have the end bolts on the ends of the auger shaft? You could put one of the bolts back in the shaft and use that as a holder as well. That idea had me thinking of another solution. I wonder if you could put a bolt in the end of the shaft, hold the auger still and then tighten the bolt with an impact, I wonder if the impacting motion of an impact gun might free the shaft and get it spinning inside the auger.

When I did mine I had a similar issue of only one side being stuck. I removed the free side, turned the gearbox sideways and supported it with jack stands. I put the bolt back in the side with the jack stands on the cross braces of the auger. I then used a large sledge hammer to pound that bolt straight down.

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