Toro 824 repower - convert manual throttle to cable throttle - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-09-2016, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Toro 824 repower - convert manual throttle to cable throttle

Finishing off my Toro 824 repower.

The 8HP Tecumseh threw a rod so I am re-powering with a 9HP Tecumseh off a Craftsman machine that had missing augers.

All that's left is the kill wiring and the cable throttle

The kill wiring should be straightforward. I helped someone reverse engineer the way these switches work in an earlier thread. Small world. I expect I will just strip the connector off the wire coming down down from the handlebars and connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the ignition cut-off wire. There's a spade connector on the throttle plate (used by the carb-box key) to help me out here.... just need to share that connection.

The throttle is a bit more challenging.

The replacement engine has a standard manual throttle control. It isn't set up to be operated by a cable. I guess I could use it as-is and ignore the throttle cable native to the Toro 824. However I'd like to try to hook up the Toro cable if it's doable.

Question: Has anyone ever converted a manual throttle over to use a cable instead? If so, how did you do it? What parts did you buy? Did you totally remove the manual throttle plate or leave both mechanisms in place (manual lever and cable)?

Last edited by unknown1; 08-10-2016 at 01:25 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Picture showing the original kill wiring and throttle cable coming down from the handlebars

https://goo.gl/photos/mi8FPsavEn45pUuG7
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 11:01 AM
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I've had two remote throttle controlled Tec blowers. My '79 Ariens had a 7hp with a top mount throttle control bracket, likely not your setup. My '89 JD 826 had the recoil shroud mounted throttle bracket with remote control to handle bars. The cable sheath mounted to the lower left of the bracket as you view it face on with a friction clip. The middle single rounded arm on the left is where the z-bend attached (second grid mark from top and bottom left is the hole) Here's the bracket that was on it.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja...tecumseh/34664




Last edited by jtclays; 08-10-2016 at 11:12 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Is this what you mean?
I think you were describing the orange positions.
In my case, to get the push-and-pull to work in the correct sense and to match the "high" and "low" markings on the handlebars, I may need to try the blue positions.

Update: Tried the blue positions and it works perfectly! I left the red throttle handle in place just for grins.
I added a final photo in my album showing the cable connection.

https://goo.gl/photos/mi8FPsavEn45pUuG7

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Last edited by unknown1; 08-10-2016 at 02:05 PM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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The kill wiring did not work as I suggested earlier.

The NC NO (normally-close normally-open) is not as I had hoped on those two wires.
I guess I need to salvage the "Interlock Module" off the old engine. I'd forgotten all about that.

Here's my earlier post helping someone else where I worked all that stuff out before ever getting a Toro... and then promptly forgot all about it.
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/849585-post11.html

This is the Interlock module I need to add into the kill circuit.
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Last edited by unknown1; 08-10-2016 at 02:26 PM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 02:47 PM
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Yup, sometimes they run opposite of other throttles. Just going by how my JD was set up. You just have to run it back and forth to see what the linkage from the top of the bracket does to the carb butterfly and make sure you don't bind the governor linkage (very bad situation for a Tec engine).
The JD had a safety "black box" that was wired around to create the ground so the ignition key would still shut it down. Black box was like a $100 part, so it was worth the effort. Simply put the wire coming FROM the engine needs to be wired so any switches or the bottoming of the throttle create a ground to frame and break the spark. If you still have the original black box or interlock you're golden. I 86'd all the interlock on my Ariens when I repowered. The switch inside the tractor body took up too much room and I didn't care for the deadman handle on the right.
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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It's all back together and working to spec.

Upgraded 9HP engine.
All handlebar controls work as they should.
Throttle cable operates properly and covers the whole range from high speed down to kill shut-off.
All the handlebar safety kill switches work correctly (auger, drive, on-off switches etc.).

I added a few pictures of the finished machine.
Needs a little TLC to shine up the chrome but it is mechanically ready for testing in snow.
Nothing special..... just an 824 converted into a 924 and saved from the scrappers.

Pictures:
https://goo.gl/photos/mi8FPsavEn45pUuG7
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-10-2016, 05:01 PM
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Love seeing the old girls back in bidnez. Wish you good luck with her this winter.
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