School me on repainting my snowblower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 31 Old 09-06-2016, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: NY
Posts: 173
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 16
Thanks (Received): 3
Likes (Given): 9
Likes (Received): 10
School me on repainting my snowblower

Hi all,

I recently purchased a late 70ís Ariens snowblower that Iíve decided will be my long term machine, so stripping it down and repainting it is now part of my plans. Iíve been trying to do as much research as I can around here (thanks HCBPH for your great posts), as Iím a newbie to painting (but I am very handy and pick up things quickly).

Here are my tentative plans based on what I read, and my budget and tools. Feel free to fill in any blanks and correct anything you think I should know about:


- For decal removal, I canít seem to get any of them off without destroying them, so Iíll be using reproductions. I bought one of the rubber eraser attachments for my drill and will use them to take them off (unless abrasive blasting works better).

- For stripping, I plan to buy the 40lb harbor freight abrasive blaster. My compressor is a 22gal 1.5hp Sanborn unit, so I am prepared to have to take my time. I will use coal slag abrasive (the black diamond ďmedium blasting abrasivesĒ bag at tractor supply co.). I will try to build an open bucket* with the opening angled toward you out of PVC and line it in tarp, just big enough to fit the bucket (biggest piece I will be blasting). I will blast outside and surround the area with a bigger tarp, using thick gloves, a 3m P100 respirator, and proper headgear.

- After stripping, Iíll wipe the pieces down with some Evaporust.

- Iím leaning away from using spray cans and more toward learning how to spray with a gun. I plan to build a portable spray booth for my 2-car garage out of PVC, clear plastic, 2 furnace filters, and a box fan. Itíll be about 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep and tall enough to stand in.

- I have access to my grandfatherís old spray painting gear. I recall it being high quality commercial equipment (Binks). I donít know how old it is, but it certainly pre-dates the HVLP equipment. Would it be better to use the old Binks equipment, or grab a cheap, but HVLP, harbor freight gun. Also, with the bucket being the largest piece, is using only a detail gun sufficient? Basically, I have no idea what size guns and nozzles I should be using.

- I understand I want a high quality rust suppressing primer. Whatís the favorite of the snowblower restorers around here? I also understand chevy orange is a close match to ariens orange. Short of paying super high $$$ on POR-15, whatís the darling brand to use? How many coats?

- What kind of clear coat/how many coats?

- I also plan to repaint the white parts, as well as appropriate parts of the original tecumseh engine. What shade of white is a good match? Are there any different paint type considerations than I would have with the bucket parts?

- I bought a new replacement Ariens cast iron gear case for longevity, since there was some pitting on my worm shaft and I would have to put some money into it anyway. This is a great unit, but it comes painted black. Iíd love to paint it the same Ariens orange while Iím at it so it looks original. Does this need to be stripped, or can I sand it a little and give it a few coats of orange over the black? Should this be sprayed, or brushed?

- Most of the bolts, nuts, pulleys, flanges, etc. are being restored with evaporust, but a few parts will need paint. Whatís a good ďmetal coloredĒ silver that people use for restorations? For example, the thick metal linkages on this machine will likely look better with some paint rather than stripping it down to bare metal.


Thatís all I can think of as I form my plans. I appreciate any advice to help me move forward with this.


Thanks!




* This assumes I cannot find anything ďslickerĒ to make a blast cabinet out of. I love the idea outlined in this thread:

Affordable Home Made Media Blast Cabinet - Modular Fords

but I cannot seem to find where to buy a bin like that.

My machine:
1979 Ariens 924039 (24", 8hp w/ differential)
Stang is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 Old 09-06-2016, 07:45 PM
Senior Member
 
dbert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,495
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 32
Thanks (Received): 132
Likes (Given): 200
Likes (Received): 283
I found a bunch of tips in the stickies of this page at the sister site "My Tractor Forum".
Mechanical, Paint & Restorations - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
dbert is offline  
post #3 of 31 Old 09-06-2016, 09:15 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Shoreline, CT
Posts: 3,445
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 103
Thanks (Received): 375
Likes (Given): 466
Likes (Received): 477
Best way to remove stickers in one piece is by heating the area up a little with a heat gun, then use a razor blade on one corner and lift it slowly (I have not tried re gluing them yet, so I do not know if I will be able to reuse them, but they came off in one piece and they are placed in between two pieces of wax paper on a folder for storage).
YSHSfan is offline  
post #4 of 31 Old 09-07-2016, 09:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: glastonbury ct
Posts: 102
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 10
Likes (Given): 1
Likes (Received): 36
what I did
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...long-pics.html

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...uild-done.html

the por was expensive, and I found it hard to paint with a sprayer and thinned to its max. i don't think I would do it again. with that being said, the por paint is much harder and durable than regular spray paint. the chevy orange is an almost perfect match to the original. the white used is a match . I forgot the color used, its a spray can I got at ace hardware, but it is in one of my posts.
the white is dover white

32" 910954 tractor-910995 blower
24" 910954 tractor-910995 blower (full restore)
22" st504
22" mtd
22" simplicity 555

Last edited by ctdave; 09-07-2016 at 10:07 AM.
ctdave is offline  
post #5 of 31 Old 09-07-2016, 10:18 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,619
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 4
Thanks (Received): 139
Likes (Given): 14
Likes (Received): 326
Glad something I've posted has helped someone.

As far as paint goes, I like either Rusoleum or Farm Equipment paint in the proper color (Like A.C. Orange or Farmall Red, etc). Most equipment is designed to sit outside so they need a good grade of paint on them.

As far as primer goes, look for something that does "Rust Encapsulation". Eastwood has some good stuff here.

When I was looking for my abrasive blasting setup, happens that Eastwood had theirs on sale with free shipping, too good a deal to pass up.
The cinder abrasive can be rerun through the unit at least 3 or 4 times. You do want to have a good screen to run it though first to remove any old paint, rust etc that came off. You will want to work with the tip size and flow rate to get it going correctly. IIRC I used one of the 2 largest tips that came with the unit and used the flow valve to regulate the abrasive flow rate. If you didn't, it would easily plug up.

I made up a plastic pipe 'blasting cabinet' to help confine the abrasive as I cleaned up the parts, it definitely is worth the effort. I also strung out a bigger tarp around it, again it definitely helps confine the abrasive.

Couple of things I found: definitely get yourself a good respirator that handles solid particles. Dump the face shield that comes with the blaster and get yourself a full face shield, you'll enjoy it alot better. Another is if your going to HF, check their elbow length welding gloves. They work well and off you alot of protection.

By the way, overall Binks is good gear. If it works properly, you should be happy with the results.

Last edited by HCBPH; 09-07-2016 at 10:31 AM.
HCBPH is offline  
post #6 of 31 Old 09-07-2016, 03:38 PM
Senior Member
 
POWERSHIFT93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PARADISE CITY, MN
Posts: 9,159
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 480
Thanks (Received): 348
Likes (Given): 290
Likes (Received): 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctdave View Post
what I did
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...long-pics.html

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...uild-done.html

the por was expensive, and I found it hard to paint with a sprayer and thinned to its max. i don't think I would do it again. with that being said, the por paint is much harder and durable than regular spray paint. the chevy orange is an almost perfect match to the original. the white used is a match . I forgot the color used, its a spray can I got at ace hardware, but it is in one of my posts.
the white is dover white
That POR-15 stuff is suppose to be brushed or rollered on the subject at hand.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
POWERSHIFT93 is offline  
post #7 of 31 Old 09-07-2016, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: NY
Posts: 173
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 16
Thanks (Received): 3
Likes (Given): 9
Likes (Received): 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbert View Post
I found a bunch of tips in the stickies of this page at the sister site "My Tractor Forum".
Mechanical, Paint & Restorations - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
Thanks for the tip. I started reading those stickies, though admittedly they're tough to follow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hsblowersfan View Post
Best way to remove stickers in one piece is by heating the area up a little with a heat gun, then use a razor blade on one corner and lift it slowly (I have not tried re gluing them yet, so I do not know if I will be able to reuse them, but they came off in one piece and they are placed in between two pieces of wax paper on a folder for storage).
I started to do that with one of the decals and the corner ripped off. Any recommended temperature to use? My gun will do 200-1000 degrees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctdave View Post
what I did
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...long-pics.html

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...uild-done.html

the por was expensive, and I found it hard to paint with a sprayer and thinned to its max. i don't think I would do it again. with that being said, the por paint is much harder and durable than regular spray paint. the chevy orange is an almost perfect match to the original. the white used is a match . I forgot the color used, its a spray can I got at ace hardware, but it is in one of my posts.
the white is dover white
Really cool pics and a great restoration. If you had to do it again, what paint would you use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
Glad something I've posted has helped someone.

As far as paint goes, I like either Rusoleum or Farm Equipment paint in the proper color (Like A.C. Orange or Farmall Red, etc). Most equipment is designed to sit outside so they need a good grade of paint on them.

As far as primer goes, look for something that does "Rust Encapsulation". Eastwood has some good stuff here.

When I was looking for my abrasive blasting setup, happens that Eastwood had theirs on sale with free shipping, too good a deal to pass up.
The cinder abrasive can be rerun through the unit at least 3 or 4 times. You do want to have a good screen to run it though first to remove any old paint, rust etc that came off. You will want to work with the tip size and flow rate to get it going correctly. IIRC I used one of the 2 largest tips that came with the unit and used the flow valve to regulate the abrasive flow rate. If you didn't, it would easily plug up.

I made up a plastic pipe 'blasting cabinet' to help confine the abrasive as I cleaned up the parts, it definitely is worth the effort. I also strung out a bigger tarp around it, again it definitely helps confine the abrasive.

Couple of things I found: definitely get yourself a good respirator that handles solid particles. Dump the face shield that comes with the blaster and get yourself a full face shield, you'll enjoy it alot better. Another is if your going to HF, check their elbow length welding gloves. They work well and off you alot of protection.

By the way, overall Binks is good gear. If it works properly, you should be happy with the results.

Am I right in assuming that the only other "Chevy orange" is a rustoleum spray can? I haven't found anything else in chevy orange that you would use with a spray gun.

I'll look into rust encapsulating primers. Anything comparable to the Eastwood stuff that's available locally (blue and orange, tractor supply, etc.)?

Thanks for the blasting tips. I actually love the picture of your PVC/tarp cabinet that I found on these forums. If I were to build a similar one, what size would be appropriate to accommodate the 24" bucket? How much extra buffer room would I need in the "cabinet"?

I have a 3m cartridge respirator with P100 filters. Is that not appropriate for abrasive blasting and/or paint? I'll see if I can get a full face mask and welding gloves from my grandpa's garage. Thanks for the confidence in the old binks guns. I'll have to see what model it is and if everything still works.

My machine:
1979 Ariens 924039 (24", 8hp w/ differential)
Stang is offline  
post #8 of 31 Old 09-07-2016, 11:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Shoreline, CT
Posts: 3,445
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 103
Thanks (Received): 375
Likes (Given): 466
Likes (Received): 477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stang View Post
I started to do that with one of the decals and the corner ripped off. Any recommended temperature to use? My gun will do 200-1000 degrees.
I did not check the temperature when I did it but it has to be pretty warm, but not enough to melt the decal (I removed between 15 and 20 decals successfully ).
When you lift the corner it should peel off without too much resistance. If too much resistance is felt it is not warm enough, but now you don't want to heat the already peeled decal as it will likely shrink (or burn), start to heat it at another corner where it is still attached to the surface.
Ideally you want to heat the whole decal area before removing it, so that you can do it in one shot.

The decal has to be sound to come of in one piece.
YSHSfan is offline  
post #9 of 31 Old 09-08-2016, 05:16 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: glastonbury ct
Posts: 102
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 10
Likes (Given): 1
Likes (Received): 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by POWERSHIFT93 View Post
That POR-15 stuff is suppose to be brushed or rollered on the subject at hand.
according to their own info, the por-15 chevy orange engine enamel can be sprayed on, but thinned to no more than 20%.... I think I may have got an out of date can from the paint store. even thinned at the 20% it was drying to fast, making it hard to even brush. it only has a 2 year shelf life. I tossed the can before I thought to check it. it is a very tough paint though., even hard to scratch it.

32" 910954 tractor-910995 blower
24" 910954 tractor-910995 blower (full restore)
22" st504
22" mtd
22" simplicity 555

Last edited by ctdave; 09-08-2016 at 05:29 AM.
ctdave is offline  
post #10 of 31 Old 09-08-2016, 05:48 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: glastonbury ct
Posts: 102
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 10
Likes (Given): 1
Likes (Received): 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stang View Post
Thanks for the tip. I started reading those stickies, though admittedly they're tough to follow.



I started to do that with one of the decals and the corner ripped off. Any recommended temperature to use? My gun will do 200-1000 degrees.



Really cool pics and a great restoration. If you had to do it again, what paint would you use?




Am I right in assuming that the only other "Chevy orange" is a rustoleum spray can? I haven't found anything else in chevy orange that you would use with a spray gun.

I'll look into rust encapsulating primers. Anything comparable to the Eastwood stuff that's available locally (blue and orange, tractor supply, etc.)?

Thanks for the blasting tips. I actually love the picture of your PVC/tarp cabinet that I found on these forums. If I were to build a similar one, what size would be appropriate to accommodate the 24" bucket? How much extra buffer room would I need in the "cabinet"?

I have a 3m cartridge respirator with P100 filters. Is that not appropriate for abrasive blasting and/or paint? I'll see if I can get a full face mask and welding gloves from my grandpa's garage. Thanks for the confidence in the old binks guns. I'll have to see what model it is and if everything still works.
the rustoleum c.o. engine enamel comes in quarts to use in a spray gun. (if that's what you mean) I will probably use that when I do my other machine. not sure if I will try the por engine enamel again.(although it is a very tough paint).. I would without a doubt use an etch on the bare metal again before several coats of prime. then several coats of c.o. rustoleum engine enamel. then several coats of a enamel clear coat protectant.

32" 910954 tractor-910995 blower
24" 910954 tractor-910995 blower (full restore)
22" st504
22" mtd
22" simplicity 555
ctdave is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome