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post #1 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Recommendations for driveway sealer?

Put in a new asphalt drive last summer and want to seal it before winter.

1. is sealer necessary?

2. which brand do you use?

3. how often do you do it?

the paving company can do it but i think i can do it for less than half. also they recommended every other year. is this right?

the options for sealers are a lot from Home depot which is where i would probably get it. It seems like the more expensive options may be better as they have a longer wear guarantee.

any info always appreciated and I trust people here a heck of a lot more than online reviews.

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 12:38 PM
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Hello Orangeputeh,

Wear guarantees are only as good as to how much sunlight exposure you have as it breaks down due to the seasonal solar exposure one has on their property

If you want to seal your driveway every other year and IF they applied a hot mix "fine asphalt sand" asphalt layer on the base layer:

1. latex based sealer so its easier to clean up as the sealer gets everywhere and ruins good work clothes.
a. Do not buy the sand mix bitumen sealer as its harder to mix.
2. purchase several wooden several sealer squeegees as they are not that expensive and they love to break as they have soft wood handles.

Before you start:

Have some of the blue disposable gloves on hand. I use the 8MM thick powder coated ones from Gemplers for many messy tasks.

MAke sure you have old clothing you can afford to throw away or a pair of the tyvek disposable coveralls as the crap gets everywhere.

Make sure that when you mow, mow away from the driveway to keep the dead and fresh grass clippings away from the driveway.
Use a blower or a ride on lawn mower set on the lowest setting to blow off all the dirt and grass or rent a little wonder wheeled leaf blower for a few days to clean it off.
Having the bigger blower also helps to dry it quicker-just be sure you are not close to the new coating when blowing across it by staying on the opposite side of the driveway.

1. mix the latex driveway sealer using an electric drill with a long paint mixing beater, you cannot over mix this crap so no worries there.

2. pour the mixed sealer out across HALF the width of the driveway and use the brush side of the asphalt squeegee.

In this way you can still have a way to enter and leave the castle grounds with out leaving the vehicles on the road or driving on the grass and not worry about aggravating the sleeping moat monsters.

As you work. throw some fine mason sand on top of the thicker layer of sealer to aid in traction as it will simply sink in to the thick layer of sealer you are applying to the driveway.

Plan on buying additional latex asphalt sealer as it will go down thick which is what you want when spreading sand as you work and using the gravel bank type bagged fine mason sand or concrete sand will help with traction for the automobiles.

When you stop for the day you can just throw out the used asphalt brush after your done with it and save the handle as a spare(you will thank me for that by the way).

It will take most of a week to cure so plan accordingly by only coating half the driveway width to solve issues like bringing supplies to the castle and feeding the moat monsters.

The bitumen based asphalt sealer will really stink like the fresh asphalt when it starts to dry so keep that in mind.

Have some kerosene on hand if you buy the Bitumen based sealer to get it off your skin and be sure to have some DL hand cleaner on hand to get the kerosene off your exposed skin if you do not buy a disposable tyvek coverall to wear.



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The issue is always one of cost as asphalt fades and you do not really need it as it does not strengthen the asphalt that has been laid down; they do not tell you this.

If the municipalities were concerned about their asphalt they would be coating it every couple of years and costing us even more tax money.

FWIW: a simple caviat emptor to you about asphalt and driveways:

The cemetary board of directors I was on many years ago spent 25K on sealing their driveways with a hot sealant and when I heard about this I almost hit table with my head. I told them you do not see municipalities doing this unless you see them laying down oil and stone to extend the life of the existing black top and the 25K they spent was wasted.



I would much rather tell you all this in advance than see you make mistakes my friend.

In my case my old driveway is so broken up due to its being poured over old building foundations I will not bother coating it as it is a waste of money.

Last edited by leonz; 07-01-2018 at 12:41 PM. Reason: stuff/spelling and punctuation corrections
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 12:44 PM
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IMO, not sure if I'm correct, I would use an oil based sealer. Sealer comes in water and oil based. In my State, NJ, sealer is water based. If I go across the river to PA, I can buy water or oil based.

Look for the higher percentage of solids. The difference between $10 $ $20, $20 is better. It always lasted longer when I spent more money. The internet has great, and bad, reviews on driveway sealer.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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thank you so much Leonz for that detailed info.

how do you spread that sand? i didn't know anything about that part.

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post #5 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 05:14 PM
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Hello Orangeputeh,

I am just coming back to the keyboard after having survived the dog park.

About the sand; you can simply toss it by hand or rent a spinner spreader. Any excess sand could be blown on the fresh sealant and will be a traction aid as well.

You can always just pitch it by hand too using a small bucket or a spinner spreader that you wear in front of you that is strapped to your shoulders.

All you have to do is decide on how heavy a layer of sand you want on the fresh coating you should not need very much but buying an extra bag will be insurance dso you do not run out of it.

When the other side is cured you repeat the process and providing the moat monsters do not start scratching up the driveway you should be all set for the next couple of winters.

Last edited by leonz; 07-01-2018 at 05:14 PM. Reason: stuff/spelling and punctuation corrections
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-01-2018, 11:17 PM
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lots of info on the interweb about to seal or not to seal, what type of sealer is good or bad, which sealers cause asphalt to crack etc. i gave up and let it go oh natural, the citys dont bother and roads seem to do fine.

ive seen it myself were "sealing" asphalt caused tons of spider cracks all over the drive.
where i worked i noticed the parking lot painted lines that the ashalt under the paint was all fine cracks but the unpainted part was smooth w'out any cracking. why? was it oil base, water base, idk.
anyone have any definitive answer?

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post #7 of 15 Old 07-02-2018, 10:33 AM
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Well, if the folks in Florida are any less crazy they paint their driveways a light color to reflect the heat away from the ground. So that always explains why the pavement is not cracked under the paint.

SO if one desired to do so painting your driveway with oil based barn paint over a layer of sand and then throwing more sand on the paint as you pull the paint back with the brush side of the asphalt squeegee it would work well.

The heat trapped in the asphalt would dry the paint quickly for sure so you would have to compare the price of latex barn paint versus oil base barn paint when looking at cost per square foot of coverage.

The one thing I absolutely hate about these asphalt people is that they charge by the square foot and I will explain why:

They run around and measure your driveway and ask how much thickness you want and then charge you by the square foot.

They set the asphalt paving machine up with the mold boards and height gauge and then go to town spreading the hot mix and paving your driveway and then run over it with either a standard pavement roller or a vibrating pavement roller(which they "may" own and it packs the asphalt even tighter.

Truth being stranger than fiction:

Anyone and I mean "ANYONE" who buys asphalt "PAYS" for it by the "TON". Asphalt manufacturing companies love selling it to pavement contractors that do highways and county roads.

Contractors that have excess asphalt they want to get rid of are always looking for crap driveways when they are doing big jobs as they know that they will have more asphalt than they need and they will try to pass it off to a person with a crap driveway " WE HAVE MORE ASPHALT THAN WE NEED FOR A JOB THAT WE JUST COMPLETED AND WOULD YOU BE INTERESTED IN HAVING YOUR DRIVEWAY PAVED??

To which I responded happily;

Will you sell me the remaining cold asphalt you have by the ton?, and charge me by the hour for the labor? They walk away to their truck with their tail between their legs and they back away out of my driveway.

They know exactly how much material they will spread per square foot simply by determining the depth of material they are spreading on the existing surface.

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post #8 of 15 Old 07-02-2018, 11:05 AM
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SO ORANGEPUTEH,

Perhaps using a walk behind spreader to spread sand and then painting the driveway with a white barn paint will save you even more money based simply on what happens in Florida and how folks take care of their driveways by painting them.
(if the rug rats yell at you tell them it is "all" my fault for this idea.
Painting a concrete driveway as is done in Florida would help its longevity as well and they will go bad after a few years even with reinforcing mesh or rebar.

If they used sand mix concrete and vibrated down to get rid of air pockets along with foil coated styrofoam foundation insulation under the pour these driveways would certainly last longer and the concrete people could really crow about these driveways.

If salt is used on the road more care would have to be taken to build the driveway making sure the driveway drains away from the home and to the road and adding a 6 or 8 inch channel drain withing five foot of the shoulder of the road should be installed at the driveway edge to let the melt water and salt brine drain away from the driveway into the ditch and rile up the moat monsters.

It "Always pisses me off" when people are taken advantage of:

Case in Point:

Local wood seller buys scraped cull firewood logs for 33 dollars per ton
and sells green and seasoned firewood for six or more times what he pays for it depending on the seasonal demand and future weather forecasts.
and he has a 900% markup on average.

Just imagine how much wood he would sell if he charged by the ton rather than by the 2 1/2-cord load.

The folks that sell kiln dryed firewood are another issue but their expenses are greater if they purchase all their firewood from a firewood processor.




DID YOU KNOW that it "LEGAL" to sell firewood by the wet unseasoned ton or the dry seasoned ton in the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA????

IT IS!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #9 of 15 Old 07-02-2018, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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i have never seen anyone paint a driveway around here. the warmest it gets is in the 80's during July and August.

almost everyone seals their drives. the asphalt is course and the paving guy explained the differences between road asphalt which is larger than driveway and the small stuff is used for pedestrian walkways and bicycle paths. he explained this because of weight bearing qualities. it made sense with me.

i did a lot of homework before redoing my drive and i picked the company with an impeccable reputation which also was the most affordable. I got 3 quotes for 800 square feet. 3400 , 8000 , and 12000. Unbelievable , isn't it?

so , because of the weather which we can get 6-7 months of snow and freezing weather I am pretty sure my driveway would last much longer with sealer. my first driveway lasted 30 years but it had a lot of cracks all over it and I did not seal it.

I have inspected neighbors' drives who seal their drives every other year and can see the difference. I'm hoping I can get 20-25 years out of this driveway. the old driveway was actually not too bad even with all the cracks. I did have 2 large 3-4 inch running the width cracks but they were due mostly to tree root. the paver took out those roots.

i'll do some more homework.

leonz and everyone else , thanks so much for your input

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post #10 of 15 Old 07-02-2018, 02:33 PM
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depends on which sealer. i just checked my fatherinlaws asphalt drive, 8 yrs old, sealed a couple of times by guys in a truck w/a tank sprayer and he has spider cracks developing everywhere. mines about 10 yrs old, never sealed and i have no spider cracks, but i do have settling cracks were car wheels sit for a prolonged period.
if i diy which make and brand is the good one that still lets asphalt "breathe"?

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