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post #1 of 15 Old 04-18-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Coleman Generator 5000 help

Well the snow blowers are all put away and the lawn mower is now cleaned and tuned up for grass cutting.
I was given a Coleman Powermate generator bought in 2006 with a 10 hp Tecumseh engine which starts right up. Unfortunately it does not generate electricity at the outlets. I did some testing on Stator wiring and continuity is good at all the connections and windings. I did notice that a wire had broken off the rotor which I have soldered back on. It still doesn't work after the initial testing. I checked the AVR board (see photos) and noticed a problem there. Not sure of the components on the small board but I guessing a capacitator is bad. In the picture there are 3 round components (capacitators?) in a row. The middle one looks bad. Could this be the problem and could I order that component and re-cap it?
As always everyone, thanks for reading this and feel free to comment.
Tim
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-18-2019, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldfam4 View Post
In the picture there are 3 round components (capacitators?) in a row. The middle one looks bad. Could this be the problem and could I order that component and re-cap it?
As always everyone, thanks for reading this and feel free to comment.
Tim
They look like capacitors to me. There should be markings on them, for voltage, and capacitance. If you can read the blown one, great. If not, I'd check the others, and hopefully the blown one is the same.

Then yes, you can buy replacements of the same specs (a higher voltage rating is OK), and replace the blown one. Some capacitors have a + and - leg, you'd need to check these, and install them correctly, if so.

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post #3 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
They look like capacitors to me. There should be markings on them, for voltage, and capacitance. If you can read the blown one, great. If not, I'd check the others, and hopefully the blown one is the same.

Then yes, you can buy replacements of the same specs (a higher voltage rating is OK), and replace the blown one. Some capacitors have a + and - leg, you'd need to check these, and install them correctly, if so.
Thanks Red for responding, I have to get the magnifying glass out for this job. Do those capacitors effect the electricity going to the outlets on the generator?
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 10:42 AM
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I'm not an electrical engineer. But I'm sure they're there for a reason. And if one has failed completely, that must be Not Good I'd certainly attempt to fix this before spending a lot of time looking for other causes.

I'd probably buy enough capacitors to replace all 3, though they'll probably come as a pack of 10 or something anyhow. Maybe start with replacing just the one. If it still doesn't work, you could try replacing the others as well, in case they've also failed.

These might be ceramic capacitors. The electrolyte ones often look like little cans. You can closely inspect that type for swelling, or leaking liquid, either of which would indicate a failure.

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post #5 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
I'm not an electrical engineer. But I'm sure they're there for a reason. And if one has failed completely, that must be Not Good I'd certainly attempt to fix this before spending a lot of time looking for other causes.

I'd probably buy enough capacitors to replace all 3, though they'll probably come as a pack of 10 or something anyhow. Maybe start with replacing just the one. If it still doesn't work, you could try replacing the others as well, in case they've also failed.

These might be ceramic capacitors. The electrolyte ones often look like little cans. You can closely inspect that type for swelling, or leaking liquid, either of which would indicate a failure.
Thanks again, Red. I will get on this and report back. At worst, the engine is a 10 HP Tecumseh with a tapered shaft. I believe they make tapered sleeves for them to possibly backup my Ariens 10 HP Tecumseh.
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 01:46 PM
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I'll dissent and note that the way the part failed is more typical of an MOV or thermistor. In this contect, and MOV to eat voltage spikes makes sense, and the color snd shape is also consistent. Assuming all 3 are the same part, check the part numbers on the survivors and verify . . .

Drawing the schematic of thatvrateher simple board would help as well, if you can't find it published. And posting the model number would help . . .
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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I'll dissent and note that the way the part failed is more typical of an MOV or thermistor. In this contect, and MOV to eat voltage spikes makes sense, and the color snd shape is also consistent. Assuming all 3 are the same part, check the part numbers on the survivors and verify . . .

Drawing the schematic of thatvrateher simple board would help as well, if you can't find it published. And posting the model number would help . . .
tadawson the model# of the unit is:PC0525305, AVR board is numbered 0062975.

I got the magnifying glass out and got this information off the MOV, thermistor or capacitator:
C N R
1 0D431K
next line: a backward R with U attached to it, next to that a trapezoid symbol
with UDE in it. A colon - : D1

Sorry for the poor description, just don't know the technical terms.
Maybe this helps
Thanks for responding tadawson.
Tim

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post #8 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 04:01 PM
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Complete worst case is you could buy a generator head to replace it, Harbor freight even sells them but a quality one would still be cheaper than a new generator.

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post #9 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 05:36 PM
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275 Volt (AC) MOV:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...VjSUJf4TFr1oFm

The big question is what else may have failed on the board. An MOV is basically an open circuit below it's clamping voltage, so removing one (or b,lwing one apart) typically results in a lack of protection, not a circuit failure . . . Something hit that part hot and ugly . . .

I'll see what else I can dig up later. I bet this card voltage regulated the unit by managing the field voltage . . .
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-19-2019, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tadawson View Post
275 Volt (AC) MOV:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...VjSUJf4TFr1oFm

The big question is what else may have failed on the board. An MOV is basically an open circuit below it's clamping voltage, so removing one (or b,lwing one apart) typically results in a lack of protection, not a circuit failure . . . Something hit that part hot and ugly . . .

I'll see what else I can dig up later. I bet this card voltage regulated the unit by managing the field voltage . . .
tadawson, thank you for the detailed information. At least I know what the part is. Previous owner was using the 220 outlet, not the 110 outlets and running it back to a 220 outlet that was wired to his circuit breaker, which I believe is a no no.

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