New to me 521 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 Old 09-30-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 621
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 44
Thanks (Received): 55
Likes (Given): 160
Likes (Received): 119
New to me 521

First of all, thanks to many on this forum. I have been reading up here for a few years, and I am continually amazed at the knowledge and willingness to help of so many members. I have a 1995 Toro 724 that I picked up a few years ago. I replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned and rebuilt the carb, painted the auger and housing, and replaced the auger and impeller bearings. Runs great. I don't need another machine, but I saw a used 521 (1988 I think) nearby this week and got it for $20. The owner could not get it to start, but it looked pretty clean, and had decent compression. I was able to get it running pretty easy (fresh gas, clean plug, etc), but it didn't run that well. So I will do a more thorough fuel system cleaning and fixing. I have the carb off (waiting for a gasket), and the starter and fuel tank off. I will replace all fuel lines and install a shutoff. Couple of questions for the team here. The PO installed an aftermarket non-adjustable carb. I assume there really is no adjustment, right? I have cleaned the fuel jet/bolt (??) including the small opening. Also, as seen in the pics, should I put a bit of oil on the engine pulley and the flywheel? They both have some rust, from sitting I assume. Thanks again for all the insights, info and references.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170930_155625770.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	98.6 KB
ID:	109601   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170930_155633040.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	102.0 KB
ID:	109609   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170930_143635794.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	211.6 KB
ID:	109617  

Last edited by paulm12; 09-30-2017 at 07:24 PM. Reason: wrong description
paulm12 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 09-30-2017, 07:47 PM
Senior Member
 
POWERSHIFT93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PARADISE CITY, MN
Posts: 9,230
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 485
Thanks (Received): 353
Likes (Given): 290
Likes (Received): 1168
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulm12 View Post
First of all, thanks to many on this forum. I have been reading up here for a few years, and I am continually amazed at the knowledge and willingness to help of so many members. I have a 1995 Toro 724 that I picked up a few years ago. I replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned and rebuilt the carb, painted the auger and housing, and replaced the auger and impeller bearings. Runs great. I don't need another machine, but I saw a used 521 (1988 I think) nearby this week and got it for $20. The owner could not get it to start, but it looked pretty clean, and had decent compression. I was able to get it running pretty easy (fresh gas, clean plug, etc), but it didn't run that well. So I will do a more thorough fuel system cleaning and fixing. I have the carb off (waiting for a gasket), and the starter and fuel tank off. I will replace all fuel lines and install a shutoff. Couple of questions for the team here. The PO installed an aftermarket non-adjustable carb. I assume there really is no adjustment, right? I have cleaned the fuel jet/bolt (??) including the small opening. Also, as seen in the pics, should I put a bit of oil on the engine pulley and the flywheel? They both have some rust, from sitting I assume. Thanks again for all the insights, info and references.
The carb question I will leave to someone that is more gifted with those things than I am. I farm that job out to my jet mechanic next door neighbor. as for the other question you do not have to anything to that it will rust no matter what.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
POWERSHIFT93 is online now  
post #3 of 14 Old 09-30-2017, 08:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Jackmels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ma.
Posts: 2,045
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 108
Thanks (Received): 164
Likes (Given): 347
Likes (Received): 649
Go to Ebay and get an adjustable carb. They are cheap and work well.
Jackmels is online now  
post #4 of 14 Old 09-30-2017, 08:32 PM
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,148
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 89
Thanks (Received): 180
Likes (Given): 69
Likes (Received): 409
Garage
Oil and grease attract dirt, dust, plus the volatile ingredients evaporate. Use sparingly. Do not grease the flywheel it's unnecessary. Any rust will be removed as you use it.

Use synthetic engine oil.

Most times you need to use 7/16 OD fuel line, not 1/4" ID automotive fuel line hose which is half inch on the outside.

If the carburetor is not working correctly you need to remove the Welch plug on the side of the carburetor and clean the three or four holes using a welding tip cleaner. I always like to use a carburetor with an adjustment on the bottom at the fuel bowl. The cost of this carburetor from Amazon is less than $20. However IMO these carburetors are not as good as the original. Sometimes they come with a steel fuel bowl that will rust rather than an aluminum fuel bowl.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is online now  
post #5 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 08:45 AM
Senior Member
 
tpenfield's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,042
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 48
Thanks (Received): 56
Likes (Given): 129
Likes (Received): 191
Garage
I have a Toro 521 of similar vintage and absolutely LOVE the machine. Very agile. I recently replaced the original Tecumseh engine with the Harbor Freight Predator 212cc Hemi, picking up about 30% more power.

I got the machine from a family member who could not get it to start. A good carburetor disassembly/cleaning did the trick. Old fuel had gummed up the fuel bowl & float, and the carb was basically non-functional. So you are probably on the right track by doing a fuel system cleaning. The original carb had a needle adjustment on the fuel bowl. . . . not sure if a replacement carburetor would have the same.

Also, as seen in the pics, should I put a bit of oil on the engine pulley and the flywheel?
The rust is not really a problem, and I would not put anything on the engine pulley as that will tend to cause belt slippage. Drier is better

As far as the flywheel, be careful not to mess up the ignition by putting any grease, oil, or paint on the flywheel. Maybe take the housing off and do some touch-up paint. If you can get some rust-reformer paint, then that might be a good solution.

If you feel inclined, the Predator 212cc engine is pretty much 'plug 'n play' as an upgrade. I have a thread of swapping out the old 5 HP Tecumseh for the Predator. The Predator cost $100, and I sold the Tecumseh for $50, netting out to $50 for the upgrade.

Regards, Ted
.
Current & Past Fleet:
2017 Husqvarna ST224 (SOLD)
2014 Troy-Bilt 2410 w/ Briggs & Stratton 305cc Engine
2003 Ariens ST824LE (SOLD)
1999 Toro PowerShift 824 w/ 318cc OHV Tecumseh Engine
1988 Toro 521 w/ 212cc Predator Engine
1985 Toro 3521 w/ 179cc Powermore Engine (SOLD)
tpenfield is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 11:31 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 944
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 99
Thanks (Received): 50
Likes (Given): 48
Likes (Received): 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulm12 View Post
...The PO installed an aftermarket non-adjustable carb. I assume there really is no adjustment, right? I have cleaned the fuel jet/bolt (??) including the small opening.
Correct.. there is no adjustment except to re-drill the jet. I have had no luck with fixed jet carburetors (especially at altitude) and will never buy another.
Give it a try and give it a thorough cleaning but be prepared to buy an adjustable carburetor if it doesn't magically "just work". $20 for the machine and $20 for a carburetor is still a sweet deal.
unknown1 is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 621
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 44
Thanks (Received): 55
Likes (Given): 160
Likes (Received): 119
Thanks all for the replies. I will go ahead with thorough cleaning of the fuel system and careful cleaning of the carb. And yes JLawrence, I do have the proper sized fuel lines. I would rather have the OEM carb, just because I have been able to get those running well in the past, but I'll give this one a try. And since the engine seems to have good compression, I'm hoping an engine swap wont be needed (at least for a while). Thanks for the references on the engine swaps. I'll do a little rust cleaning now, and then do an auger and housing repaint next summer. Too many projects already started now.

Thanks again.
paulm12 is online now  
post #8 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 12:20 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 944
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 99
Thanks (Received): 50
Likes (Given): 48
Likes (Received): 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulm12 View Post
.. I will go ahead with thorough cleaning of the fuel system and careful cleaning of the carb....
Don't forget to remove the plastic cap and unscrew and clean the "air jet" up where the idle adjuster screw used to be on an adjustable carb... you didn't mention you'd already done that.
unknown1 is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 621
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 44
Thanks (Received): 55
Likes (Given): 160
Likes (Received): 119
Stuart: what plastic cap? here is the carb on and off the motor. The stamping on the carb is 5285. I don't have any schematics for it. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170926_151502741_HDR.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	111.7 KB
ID:	109689   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20171001_112108218.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	117.9 KB
ID:	109697   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20171001_112152496.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	240.6 KB
ID:	109705   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20171001_113414162.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	191.0 KB
ID:	109713  

Last edited by paulm12; 10-01-2017 at 01:48 PM. Reason: added pic
paulm12 is online now  
post #10 of 14 Old 10-01-2017, 02:03 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 944
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 99
Thanks (Received): 50
Likes (Given): 48
Likes (Received): 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulm12 View Post
Stuart: what plastic cap?...
You already got it... it's the screw-out sitting at the top of your second picture and to the left on pictures 3 and 4.
On many (modern) non-adjustable carbs that screw is "hidden" behind a plastic cap that covers the screw-slot.

EDIT: By the way, I see on photo 4 that the emulsion tube seems to be red plastic.
I'm not familiar with that specific carb but it's probably held in by one or two rubber o-rings.
If you still have problems after cleaning the carb, you might try popping out that emulsion tube and making sure the holes in the emulsion tube are clear and that the o-rings are ok too.
I've seen similar plastic emulsion tubes on lawnmower carbs and using too much carb cleaner in that area can dissolve those o-rings to a mush.
You might be able to reach in through the choke or the throttle butterfly and push downwards on the top of the emulsion tube with a screw driver.

Last edited by unknown1; 10-01-2017 at 05:25 PM.
unknown1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome