Another Toro 826 (ca 1979) Rebuild - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 31 Old 11-21-2017, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Another Toro 826 (ca 1979) Rebuild

Background

Because the scope of what I intend to do has changed, and more questions have come up, I decided to start this topic. At first I intended to fix the impeller (it's bent, including a bent blade) and install rubber wipers on the impeller. That thinking has changed so for now I intend to restore the auger assembly and to do the traction assembly next year.

Here's my original topic, which is where I left off:

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...ray-paint.html

===
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post #2 of 31 Old 11-21-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Now for something new. I tested for spark a few days ago, and it was good. What I didn't do was to check for no spark when I thought there should be no spark, and now I think I have a problem: No matter if the ignition key is on or off, I always have spark. Testing only the ignition switch, with it off the machine, there is never any continuity between terminals or between either terminal and the shell of the ignition switch regardless of the key position. So, to me it seems that once the snowblower is started I won't be able to use the ignition switch to shut it off and will have to engage the auger and release one of the deadman switches because they work just as they should.

Am I understanding this correctly?
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post #3 of 31 Old 11-22-2017, 09:17 AM
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first you're going to need a volt ohm meter set to ohms.
there should be 2 wires at the switch, 1 will go to ground on the frame or engine the other to the coil/magneto. when the key is on it. the circuit should be open, meaning no ohm reading or route to ground, when in off it should go to ground. shorting out the coil.mag. shutting down the motor
another simple way would be remove the wires or plug from the switch , using a jumper wire, one should cause the engine to shut off,

there is also another ground built into the throttle linkage, when moved to full slow the motor should shut off more a built in fail safe
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post #4 of 31 Old 11-22-2017, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you - I will check the ignition switch again using the info you provided though I'll probably concentrate on finishing the auger assembly stuff first.
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post #5 of 31 Old 12-03-2017, 02:02 PM
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Any chance of getting a picture of the inside linkage of the steering rod to the piece that extends outside to the sliding bearing housing?
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post #6 of 31 Old 12-09-2017, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 38racing View Post
Any chance of getting a picture of the inside linkage of the steering rod to the piece that extends outside to the sliding bearing housing?
Sure, if you still need it, sorry for the delayed reply. Do you mean the linkages from the clutch knobs? I have two clutch knobs - one for the right wheel and another for the left. See the attached picture; they are circled in yellow.

Edit: More pictures are added.
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Last edited by AnOldGearhead; 12-11-2017 at 08:49 PM. Reason: Added More Pics
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post #7 of 31 Old 12-09-2017, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention that I'll be working on it later today (Saturday) anyway. Got the auger housing assembly reconnected to the traction assembly yesterday and ran it.
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post #8 of 31 Old 12-09-2017, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 powershift View Post
when the key is on it. the circuit should be open, meaning no ohm reading or route to ground, when in off it should go to ground. shorting out the coil.mag. shutting down the motor
Thanks - the switch is always open so it never shorts to ground in the off position. When replace it I will probably just use a toggle switch instead of a keyed switch.
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post #9 of 31 Old 12-12-2017, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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After the impeller was straightened and painted I decided to paint the rest of the auger housing assembly, but some things needed to be fixed first. The auger housing was bent; somehow the bottom of the right side was pushed forward. This can be seen on the right side in the picture. I used a pipe clamp and some beating with a hand sledge hammer (with a wooden block to cushion the blows) to straighten it.
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post #10 of 31 Old 12-12-2017, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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The auger housing side plates were also bent.
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