Pulley stuck on Auger Shaft - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 36 Old 12-26-2012, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Pulley stuck on Auger Shaft

Newbie here on the forum with an emergency.

Keeping my old Toro 521 snowblower going has always been easy with regular maintenance. Now, I have a problem with the gearbox for the auger. Easy to do most of what they tell you in the service manual to get it out for service -- until they say "slide the pulley off the end of the impeller shaft" (after removing the two set screws). Right, just slider 'er off there. It is stuck tight!

I have found many posts on this subject all over the internet, and no good answers. The pulley is stuck tight, and no reasonable amount of pressure with a crow bar down by the shaft will budge it.

This post from another site sort of explains it, but once again, doesn't complete the explanation:

"There should be a key way under 1 of the set screws. Use a piece of small stiff wire to probe around in the hole., then blow the debris out with air. SHine a light into the holes to get a good look. If the pulley is loose on the shaft your probably seeing shiny spots where the set screws kept the shaft clean... look at the (Toro) parts breakdown to see what is supposed to be there."

First of all, if "the pulley is loose"-- there's no problem!
Second of all, what, if anything, is supposed to "be there" in that set screw hole?

Since there are two set screws, I'm guessing there is not keyway or key. If there is, how do you loosen the key?

So far, spraying the shaft where it meets the pulley, and the two empty set screw holes with lots of penetrating "PB Blaster" oil have not done it.

I don't want to go putting heat on it or anything drastic until I know if I've missed a trick.

Thanks a whole lot. One more week of no snow in the forecast, and I need to get going on this thing.
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post #2 of 36 Old 12-26-2012, 01:33 AM
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you have a straight shaft with a small slot cut into it. in the pulley is a matching one.

the key they are talking about is a small piece of steel about an inch long and 3/16 square or it will look like a half moon shape about the same thickness.

that pulley will be stuck real good. heat wont hurt it but a crow bar will, you will bend it and it will wobble or vibrate.

see this link numbers 15 and 17 Parts and Diagrams for Toro Consumer 38052, 521 Snowthrower, 1984 (SN 4000001-4999999)

heating should work, unless you want to take the entire auger housing apart.
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post #3 of 36 Old 12-26-2012, 04:41 AM
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post #4 of 36 Old 12-26-2012, 09:08 AM
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Impeller pulley's

I just went through getting a 'stuck' impeller pulley off last weekend and here's that worked for me.
First off, I pulled off the whole auger housing.
I removed both set screws out of the pulley (some shafts have depressions for the screws) so they are definitely out far enough.
Check the end of the impeller shaft for any mushrooming from prior work. If I find any I use a flat file to remove it first.
I have 4 tools I use: a hammer, a piece of 1" thick wood, a piece of steel rebar that is slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft and a flat bar that looks like this: Stanley® Wonder Bar® Pry Bar, Flat Shape, High Carbon Steel, 12 3/8" | Staples®
I spray some PB Blaster or Kroil around the shaft and let it sit a while.
Next I arrange the auger housing so the shaft is up. Put the block of wood on the housing under the pulley (that will act as a pivot point).
Put the flatter end of the flat bar on the block and the end up against the impeller shaft but under the hub of the pulley.
I usually either sit on the flat bar or put a knee on it, put the end of the rebar on the end of the impeller shaft and tap on it with the hammer. You always want to keep upward pressure on the pulley. Give it a few taps, rotate the pulley about 1/4 turn and do it again and continue doing it.
If the pulley is stuck solid, I'll hit it again with PB Blaster or Kroil, let it sit a while and go at it again after an hour or two. Once in a great while I need to add a little heat to the pulley hub but be careful or you can cook your bearing.

This has always worked for me. The biggest thing though is don't overdo it with the hammer. You don't want to drive the auger shaft into the auger gearcase.

When I reassemble them, I clean the shaft up first (file and/or emery paper) and I use antiseize on both the shaft and the pulley bolts to make it easier on any future disassembly.

Hope that helps, let us know how it goes for you.
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post #5 of 36 Old 12-26-2012, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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HCBPH,

Yes indeed, I have a flat pry bar. I call it a "nail puller." The wood will add leverage. I never put pressure on the outer diameter of the pulley, just on the hub near the shaft. I don't have the auger housing off, so right now I can't do the hammering, but it's only 6 more bolts to take off the housing, so I might go that route.

I hear you on the PB Blaster soak. It's been soaking a couple of days. Still cold and dry here.

No one has ever beat on this one before, but I wonder if those set screw holes leave a bit of a burr on the shaft. I sprayed PB in them but I wonder about maybe turning a reamer that just fits the holes by hand in there. Probably wouldn't hurt. Then I'm going to try prying again, then heat and prying, then if it's still stuck I'll take off the auger housing. That way I'll get an idea if something short of pounding on the shaft will work.

An earlier post mentioned a key, but looking at the end of the shaft, I don't see any keyway. Do the pulleys with set screws not have a key? I hate those keys anyway, putting them in is a PITA every time. There are enough keys to worry about in the gearbox!
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post #6 of 36 Old 12-27-2012, 12:56 PM
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Pulley

Wrenchbender

It's entirely possible you have a pulley without a keyway. That should make it easier to get off (with luck). One thing I do is when I put them back together, I use some antiseize on the shaft etc to make future maintenance easier.

Another thing I've started doing is shimming between the back of the impeller and the impeller bearing. Trying to help add a little life to the auger gearcase bushing. We'll see if that pays off over time or not.
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post #7 of 36 Old 12-27-2012, 01:20 PM
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If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.

It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.
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post #8 of 36 Old 12-29-2012, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for getting me much more well informed. It's going to be about 20 above today, so working in t he unheated garage won't be too bad.
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post #9 of 36 Old 12-29-2012, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td5771 View Post
If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.

It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.
Through a process of heat and more prying with the auger housing still attached, I now see about 1/8" of that rotten key showing. And that's where progress on moving the pulley ceased. I heated the pulley collar around the keyway real good, pried hard, but no budge.

Question now is, do I do anything to the key, like hammer on the end I can see with a punch? Heat the key itself?

The model number for this Toro 521 2-stage blower is 38052, Serial 901xxxx, so it's probably built in '89.

Hope this thread helps others who have this problem (it seems that a lot do, considering how much chatter there is about it on line) ;-)
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post #10 of 36 Old 12-29-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td5771 View Post
If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.

It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.
Through a process of heat and more prying with the auger housing still attached, I now see about 1/8" of that rotten key showing. And that's where progress on moving the pulley ceased. I heated the pulley collar around the keyway real good, pried hard, but no budge.

Question now is, do I do anything to the key, like hammer on the end I can see with a punch? Heat the key itself?

I soaked the key and keyway on both sides of the pulley with PB Blaster and am just wondering the most likely next step/

BTW, the model number for this Toro 521 2-stage blower is 38052, Serial 901xxxx, so it's probably built in '89.

Hope this thread helps others who have this problem (it seems that a lot do, considering how much chatter there is about it on line) ;-)
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