Rusted sheer pin - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Rusted sheer pin

Hi

New to the TORO Forum, but not snowblowers. I have been an Ariens-man, but what I felt was a good price, made me cross over to the dark-side, and I recently went Red.

A week+ ago, purchased a PowerMax 826 and I liked it, and then found a better deal on a PowerMax 1028 with plans to unload the 826. Both are about 10 years old beased upon Model/Serial Number.

I was going through the 1028 before putting it into service, and one of the auger sheer pins seems to be rusted in place. I say sheer pin, but is it really a Grade 5 "bolt" ? I have been trying to loosen it with PB Blaster, and a clamp/large socket to ease it out, but I have not been successful. I am thinking about drilling it out, but not sure if I can do that with a standard HSS 1/4 drill bit - can I - or what method is better ? I suspect that if I can remove it, the auger will be rusted onto the shaft. So, if this is not really a sheer pin, am I wasting my time worrying about removing it, or should I continue to work on it ? I plan to bring this up to a lake-home, so I really don't want to get stranded with a broken gear case on a snowblower up there ?

THX
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post #2 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 01:04 PM
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Get yourself a 1/8" reverse rotating hardened drill bit. Heat the broken bolt for 5-10 mins with Propane or better yet MAP gas. Then using a nail punch, hit the center of the bolt 4-5 times. Reheat another 2-3 mins and repeat the process with the center punch and hammer. Then take your reverse drill bit, SET YOUR DRILL FOR COUTNER CLOCKWISE ROTATION and drill out the center of the broken bolt. As you start to drill into the broken bolt, chances are pretty good the bolt will break free since you are drilling counter clockwise which is in essence backing the bolt out. I like to drill about 1/3 of the way into bolt, heat it again, Center punch it again, then drill some more. Shear bolts are very soft, so the bolt will either back out enough where you can grab it with Vice-Grips or you can keep drilling with progressively larger bits and drill out the broken bolt. Sometimes the bolt backs right out of the treads on the drill bit, other times I have to keep drilling until the bolt basically disintegrates and chase the thread with a tap. Either way, it's really not as scary as it sounds. Give it a shot.

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post #3 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Since it bolt/sheer pin in not threaded into the shaft, it had a not-threaded portion, why would I need to use a reverse hardened drill bit ?

Also, is this really a sheer pin, or is my gear case a tough-style that TORO brags about and will "never" fail ?
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post #4 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIT333 View Post
Since it bolt/sheer pin in not threaded into the shaft, it had a not-threaded portion, why would I need to use a reverse hardened drill bit ?

Also, is this really a sheer pin, or is my gear case a tough-style that TORO brags about and will "never" fail ?
IT is a grade 5 bolt. TORO does not use BLOODY SHEER PINS.

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post #5 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 01:36 PM
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Have you been trying to turn the bolt or just pressing on it?
Sometimes the threads can still bite in a non threaded hole.

Last edited by Bob E; 02-07-2015 at 01:39 PM.
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post #6 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 04:35 PM
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Pod I would definitively remove the bolt and loosened the auger shaft as although Toro makes hardened gears for the gear case, it is not without fail. I don't know how you plan to loosen the auger shaft but you will need probably a torch to heat the length, one method having good success is heating the auger tube on all its length then when good and hot pour cold water over it then try to move it with the shaft in a vice and you will see it will move ever so slightly and if you continue with the moving or banging it will move some more until free. Good Luck

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post #7 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 05:26 PM
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Careful using a centre punch. Hit enough times, the point will expand the shaft, and make it more difficult to drive out. Use a flat end punch, or a bolt the same size or a little smaller diameter. Good luck.
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post #8 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob E View Post
Have you been trying to turn the bolt or just pressing on it?
Sometimes the threads can still bite in a non threaded hole.

Both - when I try to turn it, I can sense that it is ready to break. One end turns a little and the other end doesn't.

I'm probably going to button it back up with a frozen bolt/auger shaft - unfortunately. Too much snow coming the weekend. I'll use my Ariens.
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post #9 of 36 Old 02-07-2015, 10:23 PM
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Keep spraying it down with PB Blast regularly, things will go smoother when you try again.
Try taping the other end with a hammer while turning.
A little bit of heat even from just a hand held propane plumbers torch can go a long way.
Drilling it will be frustrating, the drill bit will want to walk off of the harder bolt into the softer auger. And with the junk they call drill bits these days you'll likely want to buy a few to be sure to make it through.
Find a guy who is proficient with an oxyacetylene torch and offer beer.
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post #10 of 36 Old 02-08-2015, 12:43 AM
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Been there and done that. Yes ,leave it alone if you don't have the time to deal with any unforeseen events. It is strictly a maintenance item right now. Yes you can break the grade 5 bolt. it is only a 5/16 inch bolt.

It is my opinion and that of many others that using a conventional bolt, of any grade, instead of a functional shear pin is asking for trouble. Toro is a bit arrogant if they think their auger gears can take that shock of a hard jamb. The Toro gears may be tougher than lets say an MTD but they still break. Mine did.

I too had a stubborn bolt on the auger drum. I found that turning the bolt back and forth ( go CW some amount and then CCW about the same amount for 4-5 cycles), then hammer it a bit...will eventually work. Alternate back and forth from rotating and then hammering. You are breaking up rust that has caused an interference fit. Plenty of PB Blaster, Kroil or similar. It can be a slow process and you need to be patient. Try not to break the head off so don't force the turning. When you hit a lot of resistance change directions.

I concur with those who recommend using heat. I did not but it is a good idea and may cut your time significantly. Be careful as some penetrating oils will flash at a relatively low temperature. I have seen Kroil flash.

Also, I am surprised no one suggested trying an air hammer. If you have access to an air compressor and you can beg borrow or steal an air hammer with a flat punch chisel it may do it. Not always the best method as it does put a shock on the bearings as long as it is still mounted in the bucket.

One way or another .....You will get it out.

Once you are past this and if you can not get the drum free from the shaft, repost. It was not pretty but I can tell you what I did.

Good Luck.

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