Need help with Toro 3521 engine mount bolts - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Need help with Toro 3521 engine mount bolts

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and new to small engine rebuilds. I bought a used 1985 Toro 3521 snowblower from my neighbor. It has the original Tecumseh H35-45590p engine. I've had it for a year now, this winter will be it's 2nd season of use and it seems to run fine. I noticed it was leaking fuel at the shut off valve when it is fully closed(original by the look of it), so I decided I would replace it and do a little overhaul on it. I took the gas tank off as well as the carb and air intake today. The air filter is off and completely black. The gaskets were awful. One was hardened and I had to use a hammer and screwdriver to chisel it off. The muffler is corroded beyond repair and the gasket there was nearly gone, just some whitish looking fluff adhered to both sides. The primer line and fuel lines are original and need replaced. I realized that my little overhaul was going to be a necessity instead of a practice exercise since it appears that no maintenance was performed. I'd like to replace the gaskets in the engine and clean it, but that's where I'm hitting a snag. I can't remove the shroud without at least loosening the mounting bolts because there is a bolt blocking the shroud from sliding off the back. I can't remove that bolt either because I don't have clearance between it and the shroud.

I attempted to loosen the mounting bolts for the engine. I couldn't budge the nuts on the top side so I eventually realized that I needed to access them from the bottom. I tipped it over and took off the bottom protective casing exposing the drive gears. I can see the hex bolts, but I can't get a good grip on them with a wrench or socket. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or special tools for loosening these bolts? I'm not worried if I tear them up because I'm replacing them after I take the engine off anyway. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 08:04 PM
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I had a 3521 that I changed the engine on and the bolts were welded to the frame. On mine the nuts just unscrewed from the top.

When you start looking at all the things you need to replace, remember that a new engine is only $99 at Harbor Freight.


Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #3 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. I'll keep that in mind about the engine replacement. I still need to figure out a way to take the engine off though, which is my main problem.
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 08:18 PM
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on my 521 which is the same machine with a bigger engine, i just held the bolts on the outside of the engine with an adjustable wrench and loosened them from the bottom with a ratchet and a few extensions, i shifted between gears to bet better access to some bolts
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post #5 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 08:34 PM
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If the main component of the blower is in that poor of condition, I'd want to check the augers are free on the shaft. Are the bushings/bearings any good on the auger sides and at the impeller? What's the friction wheel look like?
If that checks out try to find the parts you know you need right now and see if they are available and at what cost first. If you still think that 3.5hp is gonna cut it you can use a universal joint adapter to grab the under side bolt heads or if they are welded use a good quality 6 point socket or box end wrench on the top side nuts. Spray a night before with PBblaster and leave it. Slide a piece of pipe over the wrench and they will come off. They will either snap off or break loose. For small pockets of resistance I use a 24" breaker bar. For sit in demonstrators I have a 4 ft section of trampoline leg piping that has never lost a battle yet. If you've already rounded off the upper nuts with a 12 point socket or open end wrench use an angle grinder with cutoff wheel.



Last edited by jtclays; 08-29-2015 at 08:38 PM.
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post #6 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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I think the augers are decent, they handled a pretty bad winter last year with no problem, but I was going to take a look at them after i finish the engine since I didn't check them last year at all. It throws snow really well for being 30 yrs old.

As for the nuts, I have started to wear them out a little bit. The only thing I have used are open ended adjustable wrenches. That's the only thing that will fit on there since they are so close to the body of the engine. I got a good look at the bolt heads when i tipped the blower over and they definitely aren't welded. I was able to loosen one today just enough to see slight movement, but not before I damaged the nut with that wrench. Not too much force was used to loosen it, and I know that if I had a clear shot underneath, I'd be able to get it with the socket. But with the angle and obstructions in the way, I was barely able to keep the wrench on the bolt head while turning on the nut.

I'm going to see if a crescent wrench would be a better choice for the nuts. My tool chest isn't very diverse, so I know I need to take a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.
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post #7 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 43128 View Post
on my 521 which is the same machine with a bigger engine, i just held the bolts on the outside of the engine with an adjustable wrench and loosened them from the bottom with a ratchet and a few extensions, i shifted between gears to bet better access to some bolts
Thanks for the tip! I'll try shifting the gears around tomorrow. One way or another I'll get that engine off. Like I said in my first post, this was going to be a learning project for me since I'm new to it all. I really like tinkering with things so this is something fun for me to do. I'm still young (25) and I want to build these skills so that someday I can pass it down to my future kids. That's why I want to fix this engine rather than replace it if at all possible.
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post #8 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 09:32 PM
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Just completed the same maintenance on a 1986 Toro 521. To remove the recoil shroud, you do in fact need to loosen the four engine mounting bolts. You don't need to remove the bolts completely, just back them out about halfway while the machine is tipped forward resting on it's front auger. To loosen the engine mounting bolts, you need a 10mm open end wrench, a variety of 3/8 ratchet extension lengths, a 3/8 swivel "knuckle", and a 10mm 3/8 drive deep socket. Using the 10mm open end wrench, hold the engine mount bolt head from the top, then with the10mm deep socket, extensions (and swivel if needed) use the ratchet to loosen the engine mount bolts. I remember having difficulty accessing the top right nut because the transmission linkage was in the way. Instead of using the ratchet and socket, I used a 10mm offset distributor box wrench. Worked like a charm
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...FQOVHgodf9YOFg

2009 Honda HS928WAS
2005 Honda HS520AS
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2012 Toro 1800 Power-Curve

Last edited by Freezn; 08-29-2015 at 09:38 PM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Freezn. I'm going to get one of those universal adapter joints, "knuckles" (I'm assuming they are the same thing) and also an extension or two for my socket wrench. I knew there had to be a method to this, and you guys are helping so much. I can't thank you enough for your suggestions! If I'm successful tomorrow, I'll let you know.
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post #10 of 19 Old 08-29-2015, 10:00 PM
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