Bolting motor directly to body - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Bolting motor directly to body

I recently acquired a Toro 7HP Blower...the model number escapes me at this moment... The motor was blown when I got it so I went out and got a pretty good deal on a Predator motor from Harbor Freight. I wanted to give them a try and I figured why not. I installed it and it all seems to work.

My big question is would it be OK to mount it to the frame of the blower? The original motor was sitting on a plate of some sort. I currently have nylon lock nuts with washers holding the motor to frame. Thoughts?

Should I put any rubber insulators in between the motor and frame? I fear of the motor possibly ripping the frame apart.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 07:47 PM
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the frame will be fine but it is 100% necessary to have that riser plate. without the blowing and drive speeds will be screwed up and the belts wont fit. hope you still have that riser
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, thank you for the quick response. I see we're CT neighbors. Live in the next town over.

This is what I found though, the belt was already pretty tight for the drive wheels and the augers has a tensioner pulley. I also found the motor could be taller than the original Tecumseh?

Only issue is the riser plate is a bit off in terms of the hole pattern. Might be able to make something work maybe. Drill some new holes using something for risers.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 08:01 PM
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You should be fine. I think the riser plate was only used because a lot of the old engines has a flat piece of steel for the mount vs the 1/2" block like the new engines. The worst I can think is you would need shorter belts or modify the belt cover slightly. If everything fits just leave it.

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post #5 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Amazingly enough I think the belts are too short possibly. I had to stretch the inner belt (Not the auger belt), a good amount to get it on the shaft. I believe it must have a tensioner because the pulley lifted up and down like it was on a spring.

Auger belt seemed ok. Auger moves and everything.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 08:14 PM
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maybe im wrong and it will be fine. get the belts sized up a bit at napa
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 09:06 PM
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With new belts make sure the idlers are adjusted in so you get some life out of the belts and there's room to take up slack in the future as they age and stretch.

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post #8 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 09:30 PM
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Did you by the 212cc or 301cc?? The shaft on 212cc should be the same height as the original, but if I remember correctly the pto on the 301cc is a bit higher
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
With new belts make sure the idlers are adjusted in so you get some life out of the belts and there's room to take up slack in the future as they age and stretch.
The belt that drives the wheels was definitely tight. Idler actually seemed to line up as well. Should take one more look at it and make sure everything is good.


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Did you by the 212cc or 301cc?? The shaft on 212cc should be the same height as the original, but if I remember correctly the pto on the 301cc is a bit higher
I got the 212cc engine. I'll have to measure.

Other than belt dimensions, do I have to fear with ripping the nuts out from the frame?
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-15-2015, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk7794 View Post
Amazingly enough I think the belts are too short possibly. I had to stretch the inner belt (Not the auger belt), a good amount to get it on the shaft. I believe it must have a tensioner because the pulley lifted up and down like it was on a spring.

Auger belt seemed ok. Auger moves and everything.
just make sure they are fractional HP Belts. not auto belts of any sort.

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