Removing oil drain plug from Squall 2100 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-10-2018, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Removing oil drain plug from Squall 2100

Hi

I am having a difficult time getting the oil drain plug on my Troy-Bilt Squall 2100 (model 31AS2T5F711) loose.

It is a square-ish bolt end. Seems to be in-between sizes and I am afraid to round it off.

Does any one have any idea what would be size//type of socket or wrench is best to use?

Thanks
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post #2 of 20 Old 07-10-2018, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdcs64 View Post
Hi

I am having a difficult time getting the oil drain plug on my Troy-Bilt Squall 2100 (model 31AS2T5F711) loose.

It is a square-ish bolt end. Seems to be in-between sizes and I am afraid to round it off.

Does any one have any idea what would be size//type of socket or wrench is best to use?

Thanks
Use a 12 point socket or wrench end on there. I am not sure what size yours is. more than likely it will be a 5/8. Anyhoo, ALOHA from the Paradise City.

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post #3 of 20 Old 07-10-2018, 06:45 PM
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After seeing that pic you just might have to go the vise grip route. then get a new plug.

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post #4 of 20 Old 07-10-2018, 08:52 PM
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That's what I was thinking. Clamp some big Vise-grips on there as tightly as you can (near the base of the jaws, not the tips), and see if you can get it to move.



Worst-case, you could grind 2 flats on it, to give you a place for an adjustable wrench.



But I'd start with the simple stuff. I'll bet that really-tight Vise-grips will do it. Assuming there isn't thread-locker on it or anything.

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post #5 of 20 Old 07-10-2018, 10:50 PM
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since pretty much all new engines are metric i would say it is likely a 10mm. i would try putting a 6 point 10mm socket on. if that is too sloppy you could try hammering a 3/8" socket on it or keep going back an forth between metric and standard till you get on that you can hammer on tight. you are also best to give the ratchet a tap counter clock wise with a hammer to hopefully shock it free. i would use visegrip as a last resort.

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-11-2018, 12:13 AM
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to SBF bdcs64

What you want is an eight point socket if you can find someone to borrow one from. Or buy one if you have to. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...z0sc32Z1z0sjxy or


There are a number of suppliers.

That would be for use on the replacement. Yours looks to be beyond trying a socket. I think you're into vice-grip and a hammer territory.

.

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post #7 of 20 Old 07-11-2018, 02:02 AM
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Or something like this, but use a wrench on the tools hex portion...https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-M...ACT5/300703144
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-11-2018, 08:09 AM
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Pipe wrench! Works for round pipes! Serrated jaws, jaws form a "V", loose then clamps around it then tightening. Perfect, it will work.

I have the set that Gibbs296 posted, they work, had to use them a few times, once was on a car lug nut that was rounded.

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post #9 of 20 Old 07-11-2018, 01:18 PM
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+1 ^ on the pipe wrench. Then go to your local hardware store and buy a 1/8" NPT pipe plug for a lot less than this.


https://www.partstree.com/parts/troy...ts/951-12514a/

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post #10 of 20 Old 07-11-2018, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
+1 ^ on the pipe wrench. Then go to your local hardware store and buy a 1/8" NPT pipe plug.
1/8" NPT? Sure? The threads for a 1/8" are really fine that's why I think it might be 1/4" NPT.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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