Issue with Reverse Gears on brand New Troy Bilt - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-02-2019, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Issue with Reverse Gears on brand New Troy Bilt

Hi all

I recently purchased a Troy Bilt

Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control

It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2

Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.

Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.

I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.

If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.

Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse

Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?

Thanks for any help or insight

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzz..._-_Murray_Hill
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-03-2019, 12:06 AM
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Does the indicator move all the way to R1 R2?


Typically there is a carrier that rides on an octagon shaped bar that runs left to right in the transmission.



There's a spinning disk that hits a rubber wheel, the rubber wheel moves closer to, or further away from center, hence changing the gear ratio. Reverse happens when it goes past center, and starts spinning the other way.



Take the bottom off, and make sure there is no obstruction preventing that carrier to move past center, to reverse. I've seen rusted bars to the point the carrier won't move. For some reason, it may not be getting the rubber "gear" past center. Have to open the bottom to see why.
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-03-2019, 01:41 AM
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I own it's bigger brother and yes I agree it's a big improvement in the MTD family.

The pic you show is the drive cable, that's not your issue. If drive cable was to loose, none of the speed settings would work properly.

What you want to adjust is the speed selector rod connected to the speed selector lever and traveling down to the speed assembly. Under the dash you'll see the bottom of the level with 2 holes in it. The top of the rod has a jamb nut & a ferrule that travels through that upper hole and is set with a hair pin clip.

You need to put lever into F6, tip the machine up onto the auger housing (tip it onto card board so you don't scratch paint), remove access panel (3/8"), take notice to where Friction Wheel is located(should be off to the left of center by a few inches), move lever to F1 (F.W. should now be about 3/4" left of center), if not release ferrule from lever (always in F6), take a pliers & a 1/2" wrench, loosen jamb nut so you can swivel nut & ferrule up or down.
Pay attention to the location of the friction wheel that hovers over the friction plate, (it's going to be trial and error to get it right), if you rotate the nut/ferrule down the wheel will travel more to the right and vise versa.
When you get it set correctly (seeing F1 off to the left of center), then when you put it in R1 the wheel should jump over center to the right side of friction disk.
Good luck
Go back and reset that drive cable so that when you squeeze the drive lever the cable should be stiff, not overly tight (stretching cable).
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Last edited by Stability; 01-03-2019 at 01:45 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-03-2019, 01:50 AM
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to SBF ekeenan81

You need to check the manual for adjusting it. It's not the tension that needs adjustment. If you've been tightening the cable with the spring you might want to readjust that back to where the manual says to have it. I think that's on page 18.That's for when you engage it and it doesn't go, drive the wheels. That's when the friction wheel is slipping or not hitting the driving plate.

If you look at the videos you'll see on one side of center of the driving plate are the forward gears and on the other side of the center are the reverse gears.
You'll need to lower the fuel level then stand the unit up on it's bucket and remove the transmission cover to see what the friction wheel is doing as you move the shifter.
You might also want to add a drop or two of oil to that hexigonial shaft the friction wheel rides on in case it's the assembly that isn't sliding that's causing the problem.

Videos here - - > https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

In your manual it should be on page 18, Adjusting the shift cable. - - > https://www.troybilt.com/wcsstore/Tr...Snow_769-06897[1].pdf
I'm guessing since you didn't actually give the model #

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 01-20-2019 at 03:37 PM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-20-2019, 12:57 PM
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Hello There are several adjustment points. It sometimes need very little tweaking to get it corrected.

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post #6 of 8 Old 01-20-2019, 03:38 PM
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Did you manage to get it straightened out ??


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post #7 of 8 Old 01-22-2019, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekeenan81 View Post
Hi all

I recently purchased a Troy Bilt

Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control

It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2

Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.

Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.

I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.

If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.

Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse

Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?

Thanks for any help or insight

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzz..._-_Murray_Hill
That cable only adjusts the friction plate height. You need to adjust this cam and if you need more the whole bracket (at the center bolt) may need repositioning to bring the rubber wheel to the other side of the disk. This is the cam I adjusted to speed up my reverse which moved the wheel further out from the center. BUT, the wheel was on the right side to begin with.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-22-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekeenan81 View Post
Hi all

I recently purchased a Troy Bilt

Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control

It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2

Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.

Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.

I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.

If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.

Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse

Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?

Thanks for any help or insight

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzz..._-_Murray_Hill
Just to be clear, and if you are getting forward motion while in reverse positions, is your F6 (fastest forward gear) crazy fast?



If so, and as mentioned above, the friction disc is not sliding past center.



I recently bought the TB 3090, and the shift shaft has 5 adjustment holes. I tipped mine up and adjusted it to have the slowest F1 gear (closest to the center of the drive disc), and this also gives you a little more reverse speed.
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