Gas in Crankcase of MTD engine on 24" Troy Snowblower - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 01-11-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Gas in Crankcase of MTD engine on 24" Troy Snowblower

Always good to start at the beginning. Month ago I could not get my 24" Troy snow blower to start. I had left it sit over the Summer with gas in it. Yes ... Bad Me! I could get it to run as long as I squirted it with Starting Fluid but it would not burn gas. Siphoned the gas out of the tank. Re-filled with fresh. Still would not run except on Start Fluid. At that point I knew it was a gummed up carb.

Now a month later I have time to work on it. While attempting to remove the carb, fuel started running out as I loosened up the 2 nuts that hold the carb on. So I tightened them back up. Pulled the starter rope. It was stiff and gas sperted out of the exhaust. Checked the dip stick, on oil and smelled like fuel. Checked fuel tank and found it near empty. Tank had been full last time I worked on it. I believe it is all in the crankcase and it will have to drain out.

I suspect the float got stuck and bled the fuel through the carb and into the crankacse.

I would appreciate greatly if someone would advise as to the best way to be sure I get all the fuel out of the crankcase and exhaust systems. I believe the rest is just cleaning the carb and putting it all back together. Or am I missing something here. I am not a mechanic, but spent my work life with tools in hand as a Powerhouse electrician and have a pretty fair collection of mechanical type tools. Thx in advance for any assistance you can offer.
The Old Salt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 01-11-2019, 10:40 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,163
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 21
Thanks (Received): 63
Likes (Given): 254
Likes (Received): 239
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Old Salt View Post
Always good to start at the beginning. Month ago I could not get my 24" Troy snow blower to start. I had left it sit over the Summer with gas in it. Yes ... Bad Me! I could get it to run as long as I squirted it with Starting Fluid but it would not burn gas. Siphoned the gas out of the tank. Re-filled with fresh. Still would not run except on Start Fluid. At that point I knew it was a gummed up carb.

Now a month later I have time to work on it. While attempting to remove the carb, fuel started running out as I loosened up the 2 nuts that hold the carb on. So I tightened them back up. Pulled the starter rope. It was stiff and gas sperted out of the exhaust. Checked the dip stick, on oil and smelled like fuel. Checked fuel tank and found it near empty. Tank had been full last time I worked on it. I believe it is all in the crankcase and it will have to drain out.

I suspect the float got stuck and bled the fuel through the carb and into the crankacse.

I would appreciate greatly if someone would advise as to the best way to be sure I get all the fuel out of the crankcase and exhaust systems. I believe the rest is just cleaning the carb and putting it all back together. Or am I missing something here. I am not a mechanic, but spent my work life with tools in hand as a Powerhouse electrician and have a pretty fair collection of mechanical type tools. Thx in advance for any assistance you can offer.

Drain the oil, refil it, slap on a new $15 carb and be on your way. You're right, the carb stuck and leaked into the crankcase. Now you have a nice clean crankcase.


Those engines take about 18OZ of oil, I recently drained one that had the same condition, with about 40 OZ of gas/oil. It ran fine after draining it. Don't lose sleep over it.
jsup is offline  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes 132619 liked this post
post #3 of 11 Old 01-11-2019, 10:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada eh
Posts: 977
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 2
Thanks (Received): 45
Likes (Given): 52
Likes (Received): 154
i would 2nd changing thee oil, run it for a while and maybe change the oil again depending on how it smells. i would open up the carb first and take a look at it. a sticking needle is pretty common with some engines especially if the fuel you use has ethanol in it. i had to do the exact same thing to my BIL's snowblower this fall when he was complaining about it smoking excessively when he fired it up. gas in the crank case

arien 520 snow blower 6.5hp swap
yardworks 31AH6WKF515
crazzywolfie is online now  
post #4 of 11 Old 01-11-2019, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Thanks guys.

I have it apart now and have blown the cylinder out with compressed air and drained the crankcase. Carb is off and as suspected the needle vlv is stuck. Watched a You Tube on how to clean the carb. Retired so gonna do that short term so I can run it while getting a new carb. The advice on the fuel type is good also. I need to be more focussed about the Stable.

Main concern was the gas in crankcase situation. So fill it with fresh oil, then a second oil change. Sounds simple enough. Lots easier that getting it apart. Now after this one, I get to do the same on my 5.5 KW generator carb.

Once again, Tks.
The Old Salt is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 12:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada eh
Posts: 977
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 2
Thanks (Received): 45
Likes (Given): 52
Likes (Received): 154
you probably won't need a new carb if you found the needle was indeed sticking. just clean if up and try it out. if this happened again this season i would recommend replacing the carb but no point throwing parts at it that it doesn't need. the 2nd oil change would be a just in case to try and flush out any more gas since it is hard to get nearly everything out.

arien 520 snow blower 6.5hp swap
yardworks 31AH6WKF515
crazzywolfie is online now  
post #6 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 11:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lakeville Ma
Posts: 1,626
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 61
Thanks (Received): 156
Likes (Given): 52
Likes (Received): 547
put a shutoff under the tank...and use it......
cranman is offline  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes jsup liked this post
post #7 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 11:15 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,163
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 21
Thanks (Received): 63
Likes (Given): 254
Likes (Received): 239
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
you probably won't need a new carb if you found the needle was indeed sticking. just clean if up and try it out. if this happened again this season i would recommend replacing the carb but no point throwing parts at it that it doesn't need. the 2nd oil change would be a just in case to try and flush out any more gas since it is hard to get nearly everything out.

Eh, for the $10-15 for the carb, I'd change it, because I'm paranoid. It would always be in the back of my mind if the carb was still sticking. If it happens again this season, you're going to find out when you need the machine. for me, the piece of mind of a new part is worth the price.


HOWEVER, with the good advice about putting in a fuel shut off, that wouldn't matter. I put in shut offs on machines wherever I can fit one, if they don't have one.

Last edited by jsup; 01-12-2019 at 11:17 AM.
jsup is offline  
post #8 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 01:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: North Dallas area and UP of MI
Posts: 689
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 16
Thanks (Received): 62
Likes (Given): 55
Likes (Received): 172
Ironic, in that my paranoia tells me to always clean and not use questionable 3rd world parts . . . If the old carb didn't stick for 20 years, it's not likely going to do so for another 20 once cleaned. 3rd world parts and their dubious quality control are a far bigger crapshoot, at least as I see it.

And never had one I cleaned fail to work like new . . .plus, I can teardown and clean in an hour or so, and a lot of folks would take longer than that to just find the right one and order it, much less have it come it.

Last edited by tadawson; 01-12-2019 at 01:14 PM.
tadawson is offline  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes PaulMys liked this post
post #9 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Thx guys for all the great responses. The needle vlave did not come out until the carb had been through 2 cycles of the ultra-sonic cleaner. Normally that gets used to clean shell casings. Carb cleaned up really nice. Got the carb back together and the blower re-assembled. Will add a shut-off vlv after I get the snow out of the drive so I can go get one. Down to oil and gas and fire it up.

I discovered I don't have any 5/30 oil. Only have 10/30 oil. Such a delima. Need to run it to get the snow out of the drive so I can go get the oil I need to run it. So my thought is, even after draining the crankcase and blowing it out w comp air, there is still gonna be some gas left int he crankcase. That will have the effect of thinning the oil. I'm thinking fill it up with the 10/30 I have and run it just this one time to clear the drive enough to get out and go get the 5/30 it calls for.

Am I way off base or can I get by with this?

Last edited by The Old Salt; 01-12-2019 at 02:12 PM.
The Old Salt is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 02:34 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lowell area, MA
Posts: 3,246
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 118
Thanks (Received): 277
Likes (Given): 358
Likes (Received): 632
IMO, 10W-30 won't hurt it. The 5W-30 is better suited to really-cold temperatures. But let it warm up (maybe near idle) for a few minutes before putting a load on it, and the oil will have a chance to warm up before you really hammer the engine.

If the cord was hard to pull, I'd remove the spark plug, put a rag over the plug hole, and pull the cord a few times. This should help get any gas out of the combustion chamber. You likely have liquid in there, which can't be compressed, so is making the cord hard to pull. Reinstall the plug, then fire up the engine.

Changing the oil again isn't a bad idea, especially if that's what's needed to get to to 5W-30. And another vote for installing a fuel shutoff. They're cheap insurance against this kind of problem. Plus you can close it, and run the engine until it dies, so there's no gas sitting in the carb, waiting to gunk it up, while the engine is sitting around.

The ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool to have available. I use Simple Green HD in mine, for cleaning carb parts (or other stuff), I've had very good luck with it so far. It won't damage aluminum, which is good.

Ariens 1024 Pro
Toro Power Clear 221QR
Toro Power Curve 1800
RedOctobyr is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome