New auger cable too long - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-31-2020, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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New auger cable too long

Have yard man model 31AE653G501 9hp 27 inch

When I refer to very similar models both sites recommend the auger cable 946-0897.

I just received it after 9 days of waiting, but after checking, the cable is at least 6 to 7 inches too long.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ya...958_28070.html
https://www.partstree.com/models/31a...-1998/drive-1/

2 sites that were recommended as a reference to similar models.

The cable is very nice lol and trying to figure out a way to shorten it.

One end is crimped into a small tube that a screw goes into.

The other end goes into a spring and has a cone crimped to it not to go through the spring.

Naturally there is a lot of tension when you pull the handle for the auger.

I need to shorten the cable and not wedge it to break in short term.

Any ideas as I'm sure I'm not the first one to try this out ???

thanks
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-31-2020, 07:51 PM
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How much exposed length of actual cable (not the housing) do you have, when it's installed?

If there is a section of exposed cable somewhere along the way, could you maybe wrap just the cable around something (like the shaft of a bolt, etc), to use up the extra length? You'd need to keep it pinched tight, of course, so it couldn't unwind. Perhaps something like a bolt with 2 washers, and a nut. Put a washer onto the bolt, under the head. Wrap the bare cable around the bolt's threads, and when the length is OK, slide the other washer on (to sandwich the cable between the washers), and tighten down the nut.

This admittedly requires an exposed portion of the cable, and is rather clumsy. Maybe there are things meant specifically for doing this.

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post #3 of 17 Old 01-31-2020, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
How much exposed length of actual cable (not the housing) do you have, when it's installed?

If there is a section of exposed cable somewhere along the way, could you maybe wrap just the cable around something (like the shaft of a bolt, etc), to use up the extra length? You'd need to keep it pinched tight, of course, so it couldn't unwind. Perhaps something like a bolt with 2 washers, and a nut. Put a washer onto the bolt, under the head. Wrap the bare cable around the bolt's threads, and when the length is OK, slide the other washer on (to sandwich the cable between the washers), and tighten down the nut.

This admittedly requires an exposed portion of the cable, and is rather clumsy. Maybe there are things meant specifically for doing this.
The housing is attached to the cable. Noting loose or sliding or bare cable on either end of the cable.

The minimum of bare cable that you see in both pictures is it for bare cable. lol that's it.

So bcus of this i was thinking of either doing the cable around a bolt like you just suggested or extend it pass the spring next to the pulleys and try to pinch it in some way next to the auger disks (very tight spot ) so that the cable would be untouched until the end. lol does not sound good. would have to do the restrain in the thigh spot where the spring hooks.

I know that in order for the cable not to break it has to be rolled or crimped.

Last edited by squid3083; 01-31-2020 at 08:09 PM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-31-2020, 08:45 PM
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Drill a hole somewhere, handle, and install a idler pulley.

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 12:27 AM
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Do you have a picture of the machine and the routing points/rollers? That cable is listed for so many MTD, Yardman, Yardmachine, Troy, Cub. Unless you're mounting it different or you got an incorrect part I don't see how your handle is 6-7 inches closer to the auger idler than 99% of MTD machines I don't know if MTD Canada is that different or what, but your model number shows no results anywhere. I've seen plenty of MTD blowers that had swapped belly pans where the model number didn't match the machine, but the model number still showed up on MTD's site.
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneboltshort View Post
Do you have a picture of the machine and the routing points/rollers? That cable is listed for so many MTD, Yardman, Yardmachine, Troy, Cub. Unless you're mounting it different or you got an incorrect part I don't see how your handle is 6-7 inches closer to the auger idler than 99% of MTD machines I don't know if MTD Canada is that different or what, but your model number shows no results anywhere. I've seen plenty of MTD blowers that had swapped belly pans where the model number didn't match the machine, but the model number still showed up on MTD's site.
lol I took the new and old cable next to each other and the new is about 6 or 7 inches +- too long !!!!

And my old should be stretched as the screw was in almost all the way. (1 to 1.5 inch about)

Thinking maybe wrong part. Cable for other brand put in wrong label ??

I did check on 2 sites and as you mention same cable for a model that is close to mine.

I have not mounted the new cable bcus I had the auger soldered yesterday and going to pick it up today.

Bcus of tension that is put on cable, thinking of turning cable around a screw and tighten it with washers maybe.

Need a picture lol ???
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post #7 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneboltshort View Post
That cable is listed for so many MTD, Yardman, Yardmachine, Troy, Cub. Unless you're mounting it different or you got an incorrect part I don't see how your handle is 6-7 inches closer to the auger idler than 99% of MTD machines I don't know if MTD Canada is that different or what, but your model number shows no results anywhere. I've seen plenty of MTD blowers that had swapped belly pans where the model number didn't match the machine, but the model number still showed up on MTD's site.
My machine is like me, very special !!!! lol
The sticker is on the side of the machine on the right side of the impeller.

Maybe one of the shaft is made of pure gold !!!!

here's the sticker, seems original with other stickers on top.

Don't copy it all over the place, it's mine !!!
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 11:59 AM
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issue is really the age of many machines, so the manufacturers substitute or supersede the parts to what will work, so yes many times the new is longer as whats other wise available might be to short.

just reroute it so it works smoothly like we have to do in repair shops . manufacturers really only have to supply parts for so much time ,we are lucky when at least they offer a work around like on a 25 year old machine

Last edited by 87powershiftx2; 02-01-2020 at 12:01 PM.
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87powershiftx2 View Post
issue is really the age of many machines, so the manufacturers substitute or supersede the parts to what will work, so yes many times the new is longer as whats other wise available might be to short.

just reroute it so it works smoothly like we have to do in repair shops . manufacturers really only have to supply parts for so much time ,we are lucky when at least they offer a work around like on a 25 year old machine
Absolutely, of what i saw it should be 1998 or 1999.
Re routing not sure at it's a straight line from the 2 plastic pulleys and goes inside the belly underneath the motor.
Adding a pulley ??? not sure about that one.

Thinking of wrapping the extra wire around a big screw at the end of the spring. It;s just that space is limited. Have to see not decided yet.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-01-2020, 12:18 PM
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Any pics you could share would probably help the rest of us. For instance, if the extra length was in the housing but also the cable, then, if it was like a bicycle cable, that wouldn't matter. Those are located using the ends of the housings, so extra cable & housing length just means there is more of it flapping in the breeze, but wouldn't cause a problem.

But I'm guessing that's not how yours mounts, since clearly the extra length is an issue here. So pics showing the cable and where it attaches might be helpful.

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