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Power Max HD 928
I figure my SB stable is complete now since I happened along this 1 1/2 year old HD 928.

Once I brought it home I immediately drained the oil to begin with then proceeded to go over it while dis-assembling the bucket as I went. PO said 15 hours use and upon examination I believe it.
I took what photo's I could, then 'lost' my phone at some point. (Turned out it was under some rags I had thrown on top of it on the bench) ah well...

Started with the belly pan followed by the chute assembly. Dis-connect the 2 stage deflector cable, the gear cover, shoulder bolt and 3 retaining bolts. Lift the chute out and off.
Take notice of the timing mark on the gear I have circled, the gear on the chute has a timing mark to match to on re-assembly.

Take the 2 bolts holding the belt retainer off then move onto the 6 (3 per side) bucket bolts. Once they're off you more easily slip the auger belt off of its pulley.

Now pay heed to the retainer spring circled, I found its easier to remove from its clip where you cant see. On install do the circled part last. (Have a magnet handy as you will drop it at least once on install)

Now you can lift and pull the bucket away. I didnt touch the brake or idler bolts, it can stay in place even on install just by manipulating it back and forth until bucket and bolt are in position.
Here is the backside showing the impeller pulley and bolts. Remove them all, no keyways to worry about. Then remove the auger bearing retainer bolts and lift it all out.

I like the fact the impeller bearing is rubber sealed as I can pop the seals and re-grease after season. This one was still mint and turned as it should.

Next up are the 14" augers and 14" impeller, remove the bolt (9/16") holding the bearing on on the augers, remove the bushing and augers one side at a time and slather with grease and/or anti-sieze. The augers each have one 5/16" bolt thru them.

This is the point where I had misplaced my phone. But re-install is relatively easy, just reverse order of everything that got you this far.

Now, even tho gap between the impeller and bucket was minimal, (I'd estimate at 3/16 to a 1/4") I still went ahead and did the impeller mod.
I made a template to drill the impeller scoops and drilled the unit on the bench rather than do it in the bucket.
I made up the rubber to install after bucket was completely re-installed.

Also to add, all of the nut and bolt hardware are of standard size, only the engine itself uses metric hardware.
You'll need sockets/wrenches from 5/16" thru to 5/8", maybe 3/4"(impeller nut) and a 3/16" allen wrench for the impeller shaft bolts.

Now to make some new poly skids, double wide, they work good and dont really cost me anything but time.

Throw some gloss plastic paint on them and bolt them on.

So, with it all serviced, cleaned up and ready to go it was time to give the finish some care. (There are a coupla deep scratches on the top that only paint will fix. I neglected to include those pics)
Using my Porter Cable 7424XP I gave it a quick polish with 3D Speed, wiped it down and followed with a coat of Wolfgang sealant.
I was planning on trying this sealant on my truck before winter...alas, I got so busy doing side jobs and such I left it too late.

I have to tell you, we've all played with waxes and such for years, right. I started to get serious with detailing this year, experimented, learned alot, thanks due to Mike Phillips.
Now, Wolfgang's expensive, this bottle ran me $56. I have never, ever seen paint come up so brilliantly and quickly. And slick! It's like wet ice, hard to describe, cant wait til spring to throw it on my truck. Put it on by hand or machine, give a few minutes to haze and wipe off with ease.
It was a struggle to get the two to sit still for a pic on the blower...:ROFLMAO:

All done, complete. Runs like a top, the easy steer works so much better than the old trigger system. The balance of the blower is much, much better than my old 1028 as well. 'knock on wood' but I feel this ones a keeper for me.
(I stole the drift cutters off of my MTD) :p

Some common replacement part numbers for anyone interested...
Auger belt 135-0708
Drive belt 137-6151
Friction plate bearings 38-7820 (you'll need 2 if replacing. 6203 is the inexpensive common replacement bearing)
Impeller/auger bearing 136-6571

The pics just do not do it justice.

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