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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a solid condition 10-30e (runs great, throws snow great, etc.), but the drive is very frustrating. I'm curious if anyone else has had the following:

Put the machine in 'gear', 1st or 2nd forward and engage the drive lever. Nothing. Lift the rear of the machine off the ground and the wheels fly in the forward direction. Put it back down, nothing. Give it a shove with your mid section and it bucks and "catches" and starts moving.

Same in reverse.

I put in a new drive belt and not change.

If my friction wheel were worn out, why would it drive the wheels so well whilst held up off the ground? And why does it seem to 'buck' when on the ground in gear? Again, if the friction wheel were worn, I would think it would just ...slip. Not grab for a split second and then nothing.

I've inspected the friction wheel and the 'plate' is drives off of. Both seem in good condition. However, on the rubber friction wheel I can feel a couple of flat spots.

I wish I could see what's going on down there when trying to drive. I've pulled the plastic belt cover off and watched to confirm that when I engage the drive - the drive belt grabs and spins as it should; not slipping on the pulley.

I actually scratched up the surface of the drive 'plate', hoping this would give the friction wheel a better/rougher surface to grab onto. I cleaned the friction wheel surface all the way around with alcohol.

Maybe the drive plate isn't coming up high enough to meet the friction wheel? Maybe I need a new wheel? And a drive 'plate'?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Online service manual would be fantastic - I've been surprised to find so little. I do have the owners manual, but, it's not much help.

Thank you,

Jay
 

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Hi Jay, I'm thinking :eek: you must have a tension issue with the friction wheel ( spring or adjustment) , or a worn friction wheel rubber.

That's my guess, I'm leaning towards the spring either being hooked up wrong or worn but others may have more suggestions for things to check as I only see friction wheels when I work on a friends machine (every couple years) and my machine has a tranny.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Pathfinder.

Interesting/ironic; I used to have Powershifts with the tranny. I miss them. Although, with those, I used to have to work on the carb almost every time I went out.

These friction wheel setups are ...odd. I'm told they're somewhat the norm, but, for the life of me I can't understand them. When the machine gets a little stuck - or can't easily move forward, like when you run into a big/heavy pile of snow or you get caught on a chunk of ice..., then the friction wheel must just spin & wear down. Quickly. As well, it's not hermetically sealed in there and if a little bit of snow, or water, gets in there, or if there's a layer of moisture ....you ain't going anywhere. Strange.

But, be that as it is - the machine/it's engine (Tecumseh Snow King) runs phenomenally. Almost first pull everytime! So, I definitely want to figure out this "drive" thing. I am thinking it's not a tension issue with the drive wheel. I took off the plastic cover so I can see the belts. When I engage the drive, the drive belt spins as it should and it does not slip on the pulley. I could be wrong, but, I'm thinking that is working as it should. When I release the drive lever, the belt stops spinning, as it should.

Since I can't see the friction wheel when engaged, I guess I should just replace it and see how things go. They look like they're around $60. Is the replacement as straightforward as it looks? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?

Does the "plate" that the friction wheel touches when the drive is engaged, do those ever wear out? I can't think so - it's metal. Mine has a little surface rust in one spot, but, I actually think that would help give the friction wheel traction...

Thanks so much! I appreciate the help.

Jay
 

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If you can feel flat spots on the friction wheel then it needs to be replaced.

But you also need to find out why you have flat spots. Tension between the two discs is the likely cause but so could trying to muscle it through something that puts so much stress on the machine that the wheels stop. If the wheels stop then you either have a slipping belt and or a slipping friction wheel. Either case is bad for the machine and will eat belts and or discs.

Not much can go wrong with the driving disc as long as you don't run it with a damaged friction disc. This is how I received my hand me down Troy 2410 :eek:
 

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Does it have a clutch which allows the wheels to spin independently of each other? I am having similar problems where my "easy steer" clutch isn't engaging properly and the tires spin when off the ground, but with the weight of the machine they wont. Disc isn't slipping or anything, the clutch just isn't engaging. After a few minutes it comes out of it and is fine.
 

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Husquvarna 1030e

That's possible as is something like a worn bushing causing excessive friction but since the OP is mentioning that there are flat spots on the friction disc it sounds like the problem might be in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi NorthMaine,

No clutch for variable wheel drive - just a securing pin in the axle at the wheel if you want "posi" or single wheel drive. On or off :).

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kiss4aFrog,

That's a horrible picture! Ouch.

When you say, "Tension between the two discs is the likely cause", do you mean - when the wheels stop, ergo the friction wheel stops - yet the drive plate keeps spinning, so the drive plate essentially sands down/wears down the spot on the friction wheel? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?

Thanks again.

Makes sense to me. I just don't know how people snowblow and not have the machine stop occasionally due to the same factors I'm experiencing; a big snow drift/pile or a chunk of ice on the ground that brings the machine to a halt. Now, if I were a smarter monnnnn, I'd immediately disengage the drive lever, pull back, and try a different tact. But, I'm a moron, a 6'4" 230lb moron, who figures I can muscle the machine up & around whatever impediment arises. We've had so much snow here in Bolton Mass that it's been a workout and a half to get the driveway cleared. (I think I'm making excuses). I'll get a new friction wheel and try to take it easier on my snowblowing.

Is the process to change the friction wheel as I estimated:
 

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Changing the wheel shouldn't be a problem. Sounds like you have a good grasp on it. As you start to take it apart, you will figure it out.
 

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Kiss4aFrog,

That's a horrible picture! Ouch. :
It was free (thanks a lot :(). Worst part is it could have been fixed under warranty but they drove it like that for two years.


Yup, when the engines running and you have the drive handle down either the belt or the friction disc is slipping if the wheels aren't turning. That's why I think your problem is tension on the disc since you have some flat spots but I'd go through all the adjustments and just give it a through inspection and lube what you can since you'll be in there.

My machines will stop if run into something big/sold enough if I'm going too fast but the wheels continue to spin and it keeps trying to eat through. If yours is physically stopping and the wheels are too then something is wrong in your drive system. You also need to let off the drive lever if that happens right away to keep from getting those flat spots. Just like the old days without anti lock braking. Once good panic stop at freeway speeds and you have four thumping tires where the road ate the rubber off that one spot.
Unless something breaks in your drive it's the belt and or the friction disc that's going to slip and burn if the engines running and you have that handle down and the wheels stop spinning :eek:

Average guy, average tools the friction disc isn't that hard to do. Remember how it's in there as it's possible to put them in backwards if you aren't paying attention or you're in a hurry !! I hate when that happens. You'll know right away as now you have two forward gears and six reverse.
Pictures on the camera phone are priceless when you're holding something and wondering where it came from and how it goes back. ;)

There are a bunch of youtube videos on how to on friction wheels and Donneyboy has some of the best on anything snowblower. https://www.youtube.com/user/DonneyBoy
 

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Hi all,

I have a solid condition 10-30e (runs great, throws snow great, etc.), but the drive is very frustrating. I'm curious if anyone else has had the following:

Put the machine in 'gear', 1st or 2nd forward and engage the drive lever. Nothing. Lift the rear of the machine off the ground and the wheels fly in the forward direction. Put it back down, nothing. Give it a shove with your mid section and it bucks and "catches" and starts moving.

Same in reverse.

I put in a new drive belt and not change.

If my friction wheel were worn out, why would it drive the wheels so well whilst held up off the ground? And why does it seem to 'buck' when on the ground in gear? Again, if the friction wheel were worn, I would think it would just ...slip. Not grab for a split second and then nothing.

I've inspected the friction wheel and the 'plate' is drives off of. Both seem in good condition. However, on the rubber friction wheel I can feel a couple of flat spots.

I wish I could see what's going on down there when trying to drive. I've pulled the plastic belt cover off and watched to confirm that when I engage the drive - the drive belt grabs and spins as it should; not slipping on the pulley.

I actually scratched up the surface of the drive 'plate', hoping this would give the friction wheel a better/rougher surface to grab onto. I cleaned the friction wheel surface all the way around with alcohol.

Maybe the drive plate isn't coming up high enough to meet the friction wheel? Maybe I need a new wheel? And a drive 'plate'?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Online service manual would be fantastic - I've been surprised to find so little. I do have the owners manual, but, it's not much help.

Thank you,

Jay
it seems like you have drive problems with every blower you get. :p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Powershift. You BASTID :).

Yes, I certainly do. I buy used ones and am obviously not as talented in assessing them "pre-purchase" as I thought I was.

Good to hear from you - I hope all's well.

Kiss4aFrog, does those Youtube vids show how to adjust the tension? I think I'll be okay once I get a new friction wheel, but, I don't think I've ever adjusted the tension.

Thanks again all!!!!!

PS. When I go plunk down th $61 for a new Friction Wheel, you can bet there won't be another snowflake to fly! :)
 

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Powershift. You BASTID :).

Yes, I certainly do. I buy used ones and am obviously not as talented in assessing them "pre-purchase" as I thought I was.

Good to hear from you - I hope all's well.

Kiss4aFrog, does those Youtube vids show how to adjust the tension? I think I'll be okay once I get a new friction wheel, but, I don't think I've ever adjusted the tension.

Thanks again all!!!!!

PS. When I go plunk down th $61 for a new Friction Wheel, you can bet there won't be another snowflake to fly! :)
STILL LIVING the DREAM here in SNOW LAND.;);););););););););););););)
 

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I don't think it's on the video as the exact adjustment will vary from make to make and model to model. Usually where the cable pulls a spring they will give you a specific distance it should stretch (my Troy) or it might just say to have an air gap between the friction wheel and drive plate and not be specific (my Estate). It would be in the operators and service manuals.
Try to find and follow the instructions for your Husky.
 

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Kiss4aFrog,

That's a horrible picture! Ouch.

When you say, "Tension between the two discs is the likely cause", do you mean - when the wheels stop, ergo the friction wheel stops - yet the drive plate keeps spinning, so the drive plate essentially sands down/wears down the spot on the friction wheel? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?

Thanks again.

Makes sense to me. I just don't know how people snowblow and not have the machine stop occasionally due to the same factors I'm experiencing; a big snow drift/pile or a chunk of ice on the ground that brings the machine to a halt. Now, if I were a smarter monnnnn, I'd immediately disengage the drive lever, pull back, and try a different tact. But, I'm a moron, a 6'4" 230lb moron, who figures I can muscle the machine up & around whatever impediment arises. We've had so much snow here in Bolton Mass that it's been a workout and a half to get the driveway cleared. (I think I'm making excuses). I'll get a new friction wheel and try to take it easier on my snowblowing.

Is the process to change the friction wheel as I estimated:
I did a friction wheel/rubber replacement and the part was 22 bucks at a local Simplicity/Toro dealer so I don't think you are in for too much of an expense and it was also not a hard job at all. It did help to have a vice, took the whole shaft out, and used carboard in the vice jaws over the hex shaft to protect it, and unbolted the disc, bolted on the new one, and reinstalled. Was pretty painless. It was my buddy's 2000 Simplicity 860. :cool:

Donyboy73 has a YouTube video on those I'm pretty sure. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks all,

I'm just bumming that I can't see how to get the shaft out that the friction wheel sits on. I unbolted the wheel from the anchor on the shaft. Removed a "c" clip at one end of the shaft, but, it doesn't want to come out.

Do I need to unbolt the bearings/whatever is at both ends? I wish I had a service manual. Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jay
 

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Thanks all,

I'm just bumming that I can't see how to get the shaft out that the friction wheel sits on. I unbolted the wheel from the anchor on the shaft. Removed a "c" clip at one end of the shaft, but, it doesn't want to come out.

Do I need to unbolt the bearings/whatever is at both ends? I wish I had a service manual. Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jay
YEAH WE want PICS.
 

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Usually they are pretty simply but I did run across a post from a guy with a Simplicity who needed to pull the whole assembly out to be able to remove the friction disc because of how the shaft was mounted.

 
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