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You really need to find the engine info. A large number of those large frame tecumsehs came with electronic ignition.

The model number for the engine is stamped into the fan shroud right by where the spark plug wire exits the shroud. Aprox where I drew the yellow arrow. Occasionally it is covered by the electric start switch box and you might have to remove the two screws to access the number.

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I have an older flat head 10 hp Tecumseh Snow king that I would like to convert to electronic ignition. What parts will I need? I bought the motor used years ago and cannot find any numbers.
i am working on a 1030 Tecumish 10HP engine, equipped with a electric start.

number 1 a electric start for the elder Tecumish is around 200 canadian dollars, the female end of the starter goes on top of the Head and the starter hub itself under the fuel tank., this electric start cost more than my Tecumish 1030 snowblower i have, but mine came with electric start. 2 your electric start for your 10 HP goes right below your fuel tank, make sure the tab is under the bolt (bottom right side of the starter), upper bolt patterns comes open, but the bottom pattern are closed, try using torque wrenches or a 3/8 wrench for the bottom screws. 3 make sure before you screw your electric starter, put lock tight in your screws, havent had any starter fell off from the blower because of vibrations.

let me know what you think, when i get to the garage, ill post some frescos here tomorrow.
 

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might just be cheaper to buy another engine than spend to much trying to convert it to electronic ignition.



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yup 100% true.

was looking at a sharp 10HP Tecumish engine with electric start (engine only), very low hours, its Indicator sounds great and was timed by a good mechanic, for 300 canadian dollars, which i would rather buy before a e-start.

while a "electric start" for a Tecumish is around 200 canidian dollars already,
 

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New points and condenser are inexpensive and readily available.
I have always found them to be very reliable and will last for decades.
 

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New points and condenser are inexpensive and readily available.
I have always found them to be very reliable and will last for decades.
i agree but when you do have issues with them getting to them to replace or service them is a bit of work. you have to pull the shroud and flywheel just to get at them which can be a pain. i haven't done it on a Tecumseh but on a few other engine getting rid of the points is as easy as swapping out the coil.
 

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The shroud and usually the flywheel come off pretty easily on the old flat heads. Easy to give the contacts a cleaning or replace the points and condenser. I found setting the correct gap takes the most fiddling and time.
Still running the original points and condenser on the 1969 Ariens. I replaced what appeared to be the originals on the 1974 Ariens, it was running a little rough, but turned out to be a carb issue, not ignition.

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The shroud and usually the flywheel come off pretty easily on the old flat heads. Easy to give the contacts a cleaning or replace the points and condenser. I found setting the correct gap takes the most fiddling and time.
Still running the original points and condenser on the 1969 Ariens. I replaced what appeared to be the originals on the 1974 Ariens, it was running a little rough, but turned out to be a carb issue, not ignition.

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you must have a manual, i dont have one, to have a dial indicator is helpful, locating the number for your, before top dead center, is great before you put on a Condenser. 3500th might be the number the Manual suggested, but i could be wrong. thanks for posting the points, this is also helpful for my repairs, hoping i would get to timing one day.
 

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for these Tecumish Points are old school, they can be reliable, but they are not bullet proof, my Tecumish usually is the Carbs issue for the most part.

note, if a individual brings a blower like this to the shop, for a Indicator job and timing, it can cost almost like you have bought a E start for the blower, or maybe more, i can see where Wolf is coming from, unless your handy and have tools, it can save yourself money if you do the job and not go to the shop.

Edit also some Laminates are best to be left alone, i think thats why they put the E start on top of the Head.
 

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i agree but when you do have issues with them getting to them to replace or service them is a bit of work. you have to pull the shroud and flywheel just to get at them which can be a pain. i haven't done it on a Tecumseh but on a few other engine getting rid of the points is as easy as swapping out the coil.

my machines are conditioned, their easy to service, i oil my screw so they are ez to service, when i need to work on them, they are workable. some engines or machines are not like that, some are locked up tight and you need lots of Elbow grease, and lots of diff grease.

i have seen machines so tight, sometimes it takes a lot of heat to free steel, sometimes.
 

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The shroud and usually the flywheel come off pretty easily on the old flat heads.
Each machine is different. There are some that require you to remove the engine from the machine because there is not enough room between the handle/linkages and engine to remove the shroud with the engine on the machine
 

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If engine needs to be removed to get the fan shroud off, that definitely adds to the complexity and time to get at the points.
You are right every machine set up is different.
My only experience working on the points was a Tec on a Ariens 10000 series, which was a fairly simple and straight forward process.
 
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