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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, my Toro 1028LE keeps spinning off the drive belt. I replaced both belts last year when this first happened with genuine Toro belts and I made certain they were correct. It was ok for a few passes but spun off than as the day went on it spins off immediately.
I just keep looking at this and it appears that the friction plate pulley gets pulled back so far that the belt is way out of alighnment with the engine pulley.

Last year when I should have fixed it before I need it now I did some research and had found a repair that required removing some of the pulley face to bring it closer to the engine. Not 100% on if it were for my Toro or another model.

So anyone here ever hear of it being a fix, can it be the rubber on the friction wheel is so worn or something else.

Thanks in advance - Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi thanks for the quick reply 351beno.

Toro 38642
S/N 24002298

I'll see what I can find out about the swing plate. Not sure of what it is but I'll take a look.

I figured the swing plate set up. There is what I think is a missing bushing on the left side at the bottom the parts diagram shows it to be "bushing - nyliner p/n 256-257. The opposite side seems solid but the left side moves in the frame hole nearly a quarter inch. So I need at least a new set of bushings.

But would that cause the pulley miss alignment?

Still wish I could have found the pulley mod info to see if I fall into that group.

Terry




Terry
 

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Yes yours is in the rework range serial # 240000001 to 240999999 fall under it. Measure the inner drive pulley it should be 1.07 if not grind it down on the flat end that goes toward the motor. 1/8 inch is what it will take if it has not been done.
 

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If the frame is worn where the bushing goes wb weld has worked for us. If the swing plate shaft is worn we always replace them. Any movement in the plate on the bottom throws everything off. Drive disk will wear faster and belt can get thrown.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll pull the wheels and see the condition of the bushing hole condition.

Depending on the hardness of the pulley I should be able to do something to remove the 1/8 inch squarely.

Not sure what you mean by the anti-clog plastic.

Some history - I broke the plastic auger cover the first year, second year wore a hole thru the chute a few years later the plastic fuel tank dissolved enough material to clog a jet. Oh and have had an auger break off the shaft tube and a scrapper broke off the second stage part. All welded up and still ok.

Other than the one chute issue all were covered by the local dealer. For the hole thru the chute I lined it with fiberglass and has held up for the past several years.

My driveway is tough on equipment but it is all part of living on a mountainside with a gravel driveway.

Terry
 

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I like it sounds like a hard working snowblower. Toro updated the plastic anti-clog cover under the chute. If I remember right it was only on the first year or two. The early ones said power max the new cover has nothin on it. I have probably done 30 of them and only a handful had cracked. Just had one come in 2 years ago I still had a kit and Toro covered it 11 years later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes my cover is plain, replaced early on.

Just ordered a set of bushings this morning. The frame hole looks fine but the bushing fit will tell me if attention is needed.

I measured the inner most pulley and it measures about 1.118 so I guess I'll need to cut it down. The parts guy copied me his TSB on it.

I'll update here for how it all works out.

Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you 351beno, you were right on. Finally got 2 snow storms to test it on and success. First the swing plate bushing on the drivers side (left) was missing. Due to the fact that it was only that way for the last snow of 2015/2016 I did no damage to the frame and the hole was still round. Stupid money ($5.00) for such a simple plastic piece but it is crucial for correct pivoting.

I also got a copy of the TSB for the pulley issue. I had a friend that gave me an old cheapo lathe sometime ago and this was only my third attempt at using it. Shaved about 1/8 off the engine side to move it closer to alignment of the bottom pulley for a total pulley thickness of 1.07 inches. I had to make an internal spacer and bolt to act like a spindle to chuck it into the lathe due to the integral keyway.

If I did not have the lathe I would use either bench grinder or 4 1/2 inch hand grinder to do the same. Probably would have been faster between the spindle and learning how to lathe it down.

Between the tight tolerance of the shaft and integral keyway the pulley will still stay centered even if the ground end is not perfect just as long the longest dimension is 1.07 +/- some.

Between the new belts, bushing and the pulley mod this thing is running great once again.

Thanks once again 351beno for your guidance and this forum.

Terry
 

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Looking for some advice I recently replaced the auger belt on my Poulain pro snow blower, worked fine for a couple of ligh snow falls. Then my drive belt jumped of, upon inspection I noticed two beargone on the same side. Replaced the bearings and put a new drive belt on. As soon as I started it and put it into gear the drive belt jumped off again. I am no sure what is going on, the old belt was jammed in so tight I had to loosen the large pulley to get it out, could this be over tighten when I put it back? Any advice
 
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