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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installed the dual belt kit. Went in without much trouble other than they didn’t include hardware to attach the piece onto the pulley that goes on the impeller so I had to drop everything and run to the store for that. My question is, the rear auger belt rides close to the edge of the pulley. After searching I see that people used washers to bring the main pulley out more. Do I have to do that or will this be ok? I really don’t want to take it apart again.
 

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I wouldn't shim the crank-pulley out, because you may rusk having the drive belt slip off. I think you should be OK as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I wouldn't shim the crank-pulley out, because you may rusk having the drive belt slip off. I think you should be OK as it is.
Thank you for your input RIT333. Ok I’ll use it next season like this. If I have any problems maybe a spacer on the shaft between the drive pulley and auger pulleys. In no hurry to take it apart again if I don’t have to. I bet some OCD people are going crazy looking at the pic 🤪
 

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Thank you for your input RIT333. Ok I’ll use it next season like this. If I have any problems maybe a spacer on the shaft between the drive pulley and auger pulleys. In no hurry to take it apart again if I don’t have to. I bet some OCD people are going crazy looking at the pic 🤪

The spacer in the middle would be a better idea. You can buy large washers to do that.
 

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The problem with the misalignment of the belts over the idler tensioner pulleys is that it is an indicator of the misalignment of the engine drive pulleys with the driven impeller pulleys. Best to fix it now when the weather is nice. Ariens use washers for pulley alignments on machines equipped with dual belts from the factory.

The wheel drive belt is typically aligned with the left side of the idler pulley so when the wheel drive clutch is engaged the belt moves toward the right (Auger side). The impeller drive pulleys are typically aligned with the center of the tensioner idler pulleys.

Measure any misalignment. Determine the thickness of each washer and buy them from Ariens or a hardware store. You don't have to take the machine apart to install the washers. Just remove the wheel drive tensioner spring at one end, loosen impeller belt tensioner adjustment and remove the crankshaft center bolt (tapping a wrench with a hammer loosens/tightens the bolt if you don't have an impact) and wiggle the pulleys off under the belts to remove. Install the washers and pulleys and bolt them up, and check alignment.
 

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Put a spacer there (where blue arrow is pointing) if the wheel drive belt is running to the right of the tensioner idler pulley. This is because the belt moves to the right when wheel drive clutch is engaged due to drive plate pivoting. If that alignment is correct (belt running on left side of idler) then you need to put washer(s) between the wheel drive pulley and the impeller drive pulley so that the impeller belt is running in the middle of the tensioner idler pulleys. That will align the engine drive pulleys with the impeller drive pulleys normally.
 

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Before you go putting a spacer in, does the upper pulley align with the lower pulley? If so, I think that is a more important factor here. If I recall, my tensioner was off a bit as yours, I just bent the arm a little, for better alignment. If you alter the alignment of the upper and lower pulleys, you could risk throwing belts.
 

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You're going to love it. You may want to consider impeller seals, but please don't point your chute towards my driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thx RIT333, I already love it almost want more snow but it’s warming up here in SE Mass. Lol. I’m throwing about $300 in parts at it mostly due to poor maintenance by the PO. I checked the impeller bearing when I had the pulley off and it was tight.
 

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With the impeller kit, I have noticed that my impeller was most apt to ice up and freeze to the bucket. I have made it a habit to check this in the winter before each snow blowing session.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
With the impeller kit, I have noticed that my impeller was most apt to ice up and freeze to the bucket. I have made it a habit to check this in the winter before each snow blowing session.
. Weird. Is this a common issue? What can be done to keep it from happening and where exactly is it freezing?
 

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With the impeller kit, I have noticed that my impeller was most apt to ice up and freeze to the bucket. I have made it a habit to check this in the winter before each snow blowing session.
The tight clearance of the 6 blade impeller poses the same issue, but I have always cleaned out the impeller housing after cleaning the chute and auger area before putting machine away. The 6 blades do not leave much free space in the housing.
 

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. Weird. Is this a common issue? What can be done to keep it from happening and where exactly is it freezing?
The icing occurs in the bottom part of the blower housing where the drain hole is located. It can occur on any machine regardless of the clearance from the impeller blades to the blower housing. As an example, my son used his blower and then puts it away in an unheated shed. Snow is left there and freezes and causes belt burning and issues because the ice prevents the impeller from turning the next time he uses the machine.

I told him to run the impeller at full throttle when he is finished blowing the snow. Then clean the chute and auger area of any snow and then clean the blower housing. Put the machine away free of snow. Now with a new belt he has no more trouble.
 

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You need to clear out any snow from the impellar and housing before you store it. As mentioned by someone else, make sure the drain hole is clear for any water to run out. Even water build up can freeze if it gets cold enough and cause what you have described.


RE the alignment on upgrade kit. I don"t know what it is with Ariens but I had to shim the auger pulley out about .12" and I moved the idler pulley for the auger back (towards the engine) as far as I could to get everything aligned. The tractor dirve was find.


Why does it seem everyone is having an alignment issue with this upgrade? Seems like the design is a bit flawed. If the design tolerance stack up is the issue they should include some machine bushings in the kit so you can shim to the best alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
RE the alignment on upgrade kit. I don"t know what it is with Ariens but I had to shim the auger pulley out about .12" and I moved the idler pulley for the auger back (towards the engine) as far as I could to get everything aligned. The tractor dirve was find.


Why does it seem everyone is having an alignment issue with this upgrade? Seems like the design is a bit flawed. If the design tolerance stack up is the issue they should include some machine bushings in the kit so you can shim to the best alignment.
I agree. Going to ask this question to the guys at my local power equipment shop where I bought the kit. I’m sure they run into the same they told me they install quite a few of the dual belt upgrades.
 

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The other thing I will mention and is probably obvious to most but ......when you shim out the auger drive pulley you need to make sure it will not rub on the belt cover.. If that happens you need to work on pulling the motor back and/or the auger idler pulley back.
 
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