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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gents -- I have a 1971 Ariens Sno Thro #910962. Pulled it out of the shed this fall and during normal, pre-season checks found the aluminum spindle hub broken -- the tab that goes down near the wheel. Maybe I missed it in previous years, doesn't look like a new break in the casting. Found a cast steel donor hub on ebay, and proceeded to tear down the machine. I've got the entire drive box dissembled. Picked up new tires, tubes, bearings and bushings.Starting to work on clean up, repainting and sub-assemblies. Donor hub is reassembled with new bearings.

Are there any modifications that I should make before reassembly? I'm thinking drilling and putting in zerk (grease fittings) on the shift bushing assembly and the friction assembly pivot would be nice.

I considered installing grease fittings on the hub and the left-to-right thrust assembly but discarded those ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And one other thought... My timing on this project is way off. Wish I had started refurbishing this machine in the spring -- more daylight, more time to get things right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Drive box (chassis) primed. Finish coat hopefully this weekend. I scored a free quart can of oil based black enamel from ACE that will work nicely. Color doesn't matter. This isn't a restoration. It's a working piece of equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is the shift assembly (before painting). Worth drilling and putting in a grease fitting? If so, where to position it so it can be reached? Comments welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Today was spent doing more cleaning and painting. Tore the auger apart for inspection -- rear bearing and outer shaft bushings to be replaced. Timken roller bearings and inner bushings replaced about 15 years ago when the seals were leaking. Re-assembly day is rapidly approaching.

Photos:
- cracked hub that started this project
- housing -- painting the inside
- sub-assemblies prepped and ready to go
- parts drying
- impeller inspected and touching up the bare spots
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh, and while Ariens no longer lists the T126 thrust bearing, it is still widely available for about $14. This one looked good and was smooth, so I cleaned and repacked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Another day on the bench putting together the drive box. Not quite done. The order of operations for assembly wasn't quite clear. It was two steps forward, one step back all day long. Lots of test fitting to get things right. Still have the pinion gear, chain and cotter pins to finish up.

Checked all the roll pins and had to replace the axle pin (severely worn), and the roll pins on the auger. The auger roll pins were cracked along their long axis, almost their entire length.

I'm thinking of replacing the 10-24 jam nuts that clamp the friction wheel shaft bearing holders in place with modern, nylon lock nuts. Some of the corners are rounded off the 10-24 jam nuts (meaning I'm not the first set of hands in the drive box). I don't think there will be any clearance issues. Comments?

I'm also wondering how any local repair shop could be willing to take on fixing one of these older Ariens 10,000 machines? To replace the drive wheel almost the entire drive box has to be disassembled. At current shop rates, will most folks just go to one of the big box stores and buy a new blower? Just a thought.
 

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Thanks for sharing your talent and hard work!

Yes, 99% of us would buy a new machine. It's not just the shop rate but also finding a shop that is knowledgeable/ aka one you would trust. Plus you know this ancient blower is well built, that is, it's worth putting time and $ into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In working on the drive box for a few minutes this morning before heading out to work, I noticed that the friction wheel pivot hole in the side of the drive box is slightly elongated, but not bad enough (yet) to weld up a set of hardened washers to reinforce the hole. I'll do that down the road when the original engine blows up and I'm forced to repower. I'll try to post a picture in a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Rakes are back in the housing with new bushings and bearings. Painted the working surface (remember -- its a repair, not a restoration). Jaw couping needs to be reinstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Reconsidered the shaft pivot slop and got some local assistance to weld on a hardened washer. I've cut down the hollow spacer and then re-shimmed the shaft with a few thin thrust washers. Good to go for another decade.

Things are coming together, slowly...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wee hoo! Machine is back together! Still needs a little carb tweaking; I've got the high speed jet still too rich and the low speed out too far -- idle isn't smooth and hunting. Next weekend should clear that up.

Getting the shift adjusting to where it should be was a rob-peter-to-pay-paul process. Took some fiddling with shift rod and connecting link lengths to get the friction disk aligned so that first and reverse were equally offset.

Boy, does it roll smooth! New axle bushings made a huge difference.

Big thanks to Liz at Milford Power in getting together the parts I needed.
 

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Seeing this was a repair on a working machine and a good job done on it getting back to a good functioning machine and not a restoration, Just curious why you went with the old style tires when both snow hog and the X-Trac tires are readily available with so much better traction.
 
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