Snowblower Forum banner

41 - 60 of 87 Posts

·
Account closed by member request.
Joined
·
9,612 Posts
It Does not say on TORO.COM If you can still get those jaw hubs 4 your model. The 1's for mine are now NLA. Had BROTHER NCOVE Extradite the last 1 oot of Canada 4 me. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:
 

·
Account closed by member request.
Joined
·
9,612 Posts
One thing about these old toros, they're made for quick disassembly / servicing.

with the pulley removed, remove the side panel bolts:


Remove the 2 auger axle bolts and the auger/impeller assembly pulls right out.



so I don't have to keep the handle bars propped up, i connected the auger housing with the chassis (along with 2gal of Kerosene for weight :smile_big:)


Impeller / Auger assembly on the gurney ready for surgery:
Putting those side panels with the spring loaded scraper bar back on is a REAL FUN JOB!!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
It Does not say on TORO.COM If you can still get those jaw hubs 4 your model. The 1's for mine are now NLA. Had BROTHER NCOVE Extradite the last 1 oot of Canada 4 me. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:
old iron ninja operation right there! :ninja

Putting those side panels with the spring loaded scraper bar back on is a REAL FUN JOB!!!!!!!!!!
If i recall...easy as pie when you attach the springs before putting the entire assembly into the housing :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Slapped on a new snow hog to match the left side...really wanted x-tracs but paying $20 for 1 tire vs $60 for 2 makes more sense.

Snow hogs grip great on my property anyway.

Easiest tire swap and bead setup yet...took more time to setup my tire change table.

Tires purchased online usually arrive deformed...so I blew up a tractor tube and stored near a heater inside.


8" seems like the perfect size for this HF changer. NAPA RU Glyde makes the rubber super slick:


The bead set right-up by just removing the schrader valve core and inflating with an air nozzle.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Decarbed the head with throttle body cleaner and a nylon brush.


^^^ whoever "dressed" head last was waaaay too aggressive; I'm guessing 36g in a belt sander :eek:

I went through several 60g sheets of emery cloth to get rid of these deep gouges...all the way up to 220g.


I actually had this muffler for Alice but didn't fit with her shroud...right at home on Noname!




Spent the day buttoning things up including a few more seafoam rinses of the tank (to remove all of the ATF and debris).


All new fuel line, primer line and fuel filter.


After a final leakdown test (passed with flying colors!), I threw some fuel in the tank (No leaks!), changed the oil and she fired 1st pull!

A have some work on the speed control (hopefully all external!) but stoked about this machine!

A few of my old iron brethren are hunting for an impeller shaft; if we can't find one, I have a plan B that just might work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
Looking good CC. For reference, what do you consider to be good for leak-down tests on flat-head engines. I have tested a few, and just wondering what the ranges are.

tx
 
  • Like
Reactions: classiccat

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Looking good CC. For reference, what do you consider to be good for leak-down tests on flat-head engines. I have tested a few, and just wondering what the ranges are.

tx
thanks Paul!

She was reading in the 6-10% range but take that with a grain of salt since I was only at 50psi. With this engine, you can't button up the head without the shroud so I couldn't use the flywheel fins to lock the piston. The main thing for me is no noticeable air rushing into the crankcase...which i was sweating b/c i didn't rip it down far enough to measure ring gap. :smile_big:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
nice work classiccat. nothing like a real old NON box store toro for how they are built . to me they were like a old B61 mack truck.
You bet! I would love to know what MSRP was of this machine back in the 80's! Build like a mack and purrs like a corolla; very well behaved engines.

A little update... the governor is squared away (re-synced the throttle butterfly / gov arm and found a spot where the arm was binding).

I installed clear primer hose (b/c that's what I had stocked) and I'm glad I did. The check valve had some crud in it and wasn't closing...i saw air bubbles going in both directions; the primer on these engines taps into the main fuel line and pumps a shot of fuel directly into the intake.

that's the hose nipple on the intake elbow:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Well folks, I think I may have found a way to milk out another decade or 2 from this impeller shaft! (as long as this bearing does its job).

Since this collared bearing has 2 set screws (120 degrees apart), I decided to add 3 keys by 1st grounding a flat for the key to sit on:


Tack weld it in place (don't want to get the shaft too hot and have it warp on me):


then grind the keys close to the being level with the non-damaged portion of the shaft:


Backfill the gaps with this stuff


I setup a manual lathe using jackstands, the bushings from the auger gearbox & the pulley for cranking.


then CAREFULLY file/sand (rinse and repeat about a 100 times)!

^^^ far from finished here but you get the picture now.





Now i need to order some bushings/seals to rebuild the gearbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,287 Posts
Nice work CC, I'm sure I will use the homemade lathe trick sometime.


:rock:
 
  • Like
Reactions: classiccat

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Nice work CC, I'm sure I will use the homemade lathe trick sometime.


:rock:
Thanks Grunt!

I had an hour to kill waiting for that epoxy to setup...I left plenty of room for you to improve on the design! :giggle:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Quick update.

Popped the covers off of the "sealed" impeller bearing, removed the sorry-excuse for grease that was in there and packed it with marine wheel bearing grease.

Before:


After: (sorry i didn't save the pic with the seal off)


There was are gouges where the auger gearcase rubbed against the impeller shaft from so much "flop" from the bad bearing.
Filled/smoothed with JBWELD.



I'll do the same for the auger shaft...i'm putting to the 2 spots where the seals should contact the shaft.


New seals/bushings pressed into the auger gearcase housing:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
463 Posts
C/C, That's a pretty slick way to save that shaft!!! Nice save!!!! I especially like the 'Manual Lathe' trick also....

I have a Snapper 826, same vintage as your Toro, also with the Briggs. It was a customer 'Donation'.... My favorite kind.
Although mine Does Not have the primer set-up. It Does have electric start, tho. Start very easily, considering all I did was Toss a Clone Carb on it...and it ran great. I've yet to test compression or spark intensity....it ran That Good. Put an impeller kit on it and It's easily one of the Better Performers.

A few weeks ago, I picked up an 11HP Briggs, from a Toro 1132. I'm using it on one of my Wheel Horse, Work Horse Tractors, and it Does Have the Primer System....But it looked as if it was a home made system, kind of hacked in. But seeing your pix, I may put that on the Snapper. Looks like the same Carb and intake from a quick glance...

Question for ya.....What are you using for the head gasket?? Is it a stock Briggs Part?? Covered with Copper Spray Sealer?? I've seen that done a few times....

Or is it an actual Copper Head Gasket?? I've seen Copper Sheets at the Farm Store, sold as "Make your Own Head Gasket" stock....... Great Idea, but obviously, would not have a Fire Ring in it. It's sold in 2 different thicknesses.


Keep Up the Great Work!!! It will Look great next to your Wheel Horse!!!! Same Vintage...


GLuck, Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I have a Snapper 826, same vintage as your Toro, also with the Briggs. It was a customer 'Donation'.... My favorite kind.
Although mine Does Not have the primer set-up. It Does have electric start, tho. Start very easily, considering all I did was Toss a Clone Carb on it...and it ran great. I've yet to test compression or spark intensity....it ran That Good. Put an impeller kit on it and It's easily one of the Better Performers.

A few weeks ago, I picked up an 11HP Briggs, from a Toro 1132. I'm using it on one of my Wheel Horse, Work Horse Tractors, and it Does Have the Primer System....But it looked as if it was a home made system, kind of hacked in. But seeing your pix, I may put that on the Snapper. Looks like the same Carb and intake from a quick glance...
That Briggs powered Snapper is Mike C.'s favorite blower!

The primer is a gimmick; more hassle than its worth; i wish that i didn't waste the fuel line connecting it and just plugged up the nipple on the intake elbow.

Like you said, these engines already start so easy!


Question for ya.....What are you using for the head gasket?? Is it a stock Briggs Part?? Covered with Copper Spray Sealer?? I've seen that done a few times....

Or is it an actual Copper Head Gasket?? I've seen Copper Sheets at the Farm Store, sold as "Make your Own Head Gasket" stock....... Great Idea, but obviously, would not have a Fire Ring in it. It's sold in 2 different thicknesses.


Keep Up the Great Work!!! It will Look great next to your Wheel Horse!!!! Same Vintage...


GLuck, Jay
Man I'm kind of ticked at the head gasket that I bought. Its actually a Stens; the picture showed a true metal with a fire ring...and this is that single-use paper crap; 1st time you pull the head it splits apart...junk. The last Stens head gasket I bought was for my K181 and it was metal with a fire ring...i'll have to track down that seller and see if he sells them for Briggs.

Yeah I coat them in Permatex Cu spray; I honestly don't know if it makes a difference. None of my engines have leaky heads so I can say that it doesn't hurt :grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
To commemorate the 2 week anniversary of dragging this beast home, I'll throw-up another update your way.

repairing those worn seal sections on the auger shaft:

wipe down with acetone then denatured alcohol, roughen up the metal then tape-off


Apply JBWELD and get it as thin as possible by mashing it into the grooves. I then scored it and pulled off the tape:


This stuff is hard as a rock in 60min even in a cold garage. So right around the 1 hr mark, I removed the excess with a flapdisc...


then scrape down to metal with a razor.


ready for assembly...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Auger assembly:
Worm gear setup (I'm not showing the thrust washers here):


I pressed the main gear back onto the auger shaft (it has 2 keys)...and also packed the housing halves with Lubriplate Mag-1 grease.


1st insert the auger shaft through the left side casing...gear orientations are super critical here! The bushings get a fine coat of Loctite 242 (i assume so they don't spin in the housing):

^^^ the gasket goes in dry...except for the ends near the impeller shaft opening; toro recommends putting some grease down to hold it in place.

Then carefully slide the other half of the gear case housing on, put some antisieze on the bolts and torque to 120 inch lbs in a crossing pattern (sorry, no pics)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Then the auger drums go on with the grade-5 bolts ("no bloody shear bolts" PS93!)

Once the auger drums are on, now you in stall the scraper bar and side panels (with new bushings already installed and oiled)...and this is the optimum time to install the scraper bar spring as shown:


the side panels are held to the auger axle with a bolt/washer at each end. The impeller is loosely attached here since I don't know where it will be placed just yet.


Now time to see if my impeller shaft hack fits! 1st the impeller bearing assembly is connected to the main housing. Then feed the impeller shaft through the bearing.


Get it to the point where I can bolt on the side panels...but don't secure the set screws just yet.


At this point, check for end play and I secured once it was centered in the play:

^^^ the bearing set screws get secured to those keys we welded in place last weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Once the impeller bearing set screws were secured, I then slide he impeller into place.

now we can work on the "impeller mod":

I drilled/tapped 1/4-20 holes in the impeller fins before assembly


Clamped in place and test for fitment all the way around the impeller housing:

^^^ I marked the backside of the rubber using an angled pick heated up with a torch

This whale mouth is ready to install:


Thanks for stoppin' by!
 
41 - 60 of 87 Posts
Top