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Discussion Starter #61
I can only imagine the low-opinion that SemiChemE had when he owned this machine...it was a real onion.

He only owned it for a short while and I don't believe it even ran...he was doing a relocating-friend a giant favor buying it from him. (You all saw the condition of the entire auger assembly.)

Time to get the auger reconnected with its better half (btw, 3 2x4's is perfect prop height for mating the 2 pieces):

^^ dip the handlebars so the belly-pan goes behind the impeller pulley, drop the slots onto the lower studs, put the belt on the pulley and tilt-up inserting the 3/8 bolts in the upper holes (alot easier inserting inside-out).

Anyways, I get the machine back together and engage the auger to check belt tension...and it goes tight and then slackens.

Between the jacked impeller shaft and this, there was no way that this thing could've thrown a single snowflake.

if you look at this picture, the auger handle is going too-far allowing the linkage rod to extend too far...and it comes to rest on the control panel which can't be right:

^^ if you look closely there's a notch built into that cam...which would make a nice stopper ...if only it was hooked up right!

Now to be fair, the owners manual for this machine appears to show it hooked up backwards:



To fix, I had to put the limit switch bracket UNDER the swivel bracket so that the cam would fit.

^^^ which consequently is going to throw-off the friction wheel tension and location on the drive plate.

The shoulder bolts go through the cam 1st and the nuts/washers go on the bracket-side:


successful engagement! the cam stop is hitting the bracket and the auger belt is staying nice a tight:


Home stretch folks!
  • fix the chute retainers
  • weld the chute sprocket-ring (it has a giant stress crack)
  • Address what I think is an occasional miss (either from the primer dumping extra fuel into the intake or the dreaded interlock module.)
 

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Classiccat,
Your skills and attention to detail are impressive. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain your work, especially the detailed photos. This thread will be the go to for anyone dismantling/repairing a Toro blower unit, also useful for other makes as well.
Thanks again
 

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I can only imagine the low-opinion that SemiChemE had when he owned this machine...it was a real onion.

He only owned it for a short while and I don't believe it even ran...he was doing a relocating-friend a giant favor buying it from him. (You all saw the condition of the entire auger assembly.)

Time to get the auger reconnected with its better half (btw, 3 2x4's is perfect prop height for mating the 2 pieces):

^^ dip the handlebars so the belly-pan goes behind the impeller pulley, drop the slots onto the lower studs, put the belt on the pulley and tilt-up inserting the 3/8 bolts in the upper holes (alot easier inserting inside-out).

Anyways, I get the machine back together and engage the auger to check belt tension...and it goes tight and then slackens.

Between the jacked impeller shaft and this, there was no way that this thing could've thrown a single snowflake.

if you look at this picture, the auger handle is going too-far allowing the linkage rod to extend too far...and it comes to rest on the control panel which can't be right:

^^ if you look closely there's a notch built into that cam...which would make a nice stopper ...if only it was hooked up right!

Now to be fair, the owners manual for this machine appears to show it hooked up backwards:



To fix, I had to put the limit switch bracket UNDER the swivel bracket so that the cam would fit.

^^^ which consequently is going to throw-off the friction wheel tension and location on the drive plate.

The shoulder bolts go through the cam 1st and the nuts/washers go on the bracket-side:


successful engagement! the cam stop is hitting the bracket and the auger belt is staying nice a tight:


Home stretch folks!
  • fix the chute retainers
  • weld the chute sprocket-ring (it has a giant stress crack)
  • Address what I think is an occasional miss (either from the primer dumping extra fuel into the intake or the dreaded interlock module.)
That Switch is supposed to hit the top of the shifter bar. from the looks of it. it needs to go futher over. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Auger assembly:
Worm gear setup (I'm not showing the thrust washers here):


I pressed the main gear back onto the auger shaft (it has 2 keys)...and also packed the housing halves with Lubriplate Mag-1 grease.


1st insert the auger shaft through the left side casing...gear orientations are super critical here! The bushings get a fine coat of Loctite 242 (i assume so they don't spin in the housing):

^^^ the gasket goes in dry...except for the ends near the impeller shaft opening; toro recommends putting some grease down to hold it in place.

Then carefully slide the other half of the gear case housing on, put some antisieze on the bolts and torque to 120 inch lbs in a crossing pattern (sorry, no pics)
TORO Specs 80/90 Weight gear oil in there. Just so you know. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Discussion Starter #65
That Switch is supposed to hit the top of the shifter bar. from the looks of it. it needs to go futher over. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
Toro Columbo!

The setup on my machine is actually 100% correct; these interlock module circuits are setup to hit the limit for auger-off and gears-Neutral. This is the same identical circuit on my '89 824 with the exception of 1 handlebar switch.

Notice the forward / large notch in that cam in the picture...that's for the limit switch when disengaged.



^^ for the machine to stay running, there needs to be continuity between the 2 connectors going into the module.


TORO Specs 80/90 Weight gear oil in there. Just so you know. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
Interesting you recommend that. Man...I wish it was gear oil; this Mag-1 is &*%# expensive!

This auger gearcase had old Mag-1 when I cracked it open (still cream colored under the layer of black). Mag-1 is also spec'd in the owners manual for this machine.

I wonder if the old school cast iron gearcases use the 90w? :icon-shrug:

 

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Discussion Starter #66
Classiccat,
Your skills and attention to detail are impressive. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain your work, especially the detailed photos. This thread will be the go to for anyone dismantling/repairing a Toro blower unit, also useful for other makes as well.
Thanks again
I appreciate you saying that Ziggy! I document it for us to point to something when someone comes along with similar problems. These old machines and engines are thrown to the curb when often the ailments can be inexpensively remedied with average mechanical abilities/tools.

so which Toro is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Quick update.

The engine ran like a top tonight...no more occasional miss and I was finally able to get the carb dialed-in after pulling my hair out for an hour.

  • Cleaned the safety circuit electrical connections with CRC contact cleaner (someone used liquid electrical tape in the connectors! :eek:)
  • permatex dielectric grease on all of the connections
  • Added shunts for the handlebar switches; they're both busted.
  • Main issue was the tank wasn't venting...holes in the cap were rusted shut :facepalm_zpsdj194qh (notice the coked-up muffler from trying to tune the carb)
  • Primer delete
Before Primer delete:


After Primer delete:


Lastly, I did a "stress test" on the impeller bearing yesterday and those set screws eventually slipped

A simple 2-part remedy; drill dimples into the metal keys for the set screws to sink into and use loctite on the set screws.

^^^ this really should be a keyed bearing collar! I recommend this mod even on a "good" impeller shaft.

We're gettin' there folks!
 

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so which Toro is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:[/QUOTE]

Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?
They're all cool and built like tanks but I've been after an 826 (or an 1132) for awhile; Briggs engines as well as the general serviceability and versatility. I like how you can adjust the speed range right at the control panel and the wheel clutches make turning a snap.
 

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They changed that switch in the later years. the 1 on the Donor Machine has a larger gear shifter bracket. The arm of the shifter hits the switch lever. never touching the auger cam. I just ripped them off of there anyway.
 

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so which Toro is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:
Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?[/QUOTE] The 70's model years had the non EPA Carb on them. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Discussion Starter #72
My chute flopped around like a bobble-head...


...unbecoming for such a stout machine.

1st of the fixes, addressing the broken guide ring weld:


rather than repairing the internal spot weld, I decided to butt-weld from the outside.

1st ground a notch:


Then some grinder & file work:


next...
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Worn retainers:


I made a bead of JBWELD stick and laid it in the upper lip of the retainer, draped some parchment paper over the guide and pressed it.


then trimmed with razor.


Once it cured, i scraped the JBWELD with a razor until it moves freely around the guide.

One thing I'd do differently since it doesn't adhere that well to this plastic even after cleaning with acetone. if i were to do it again, I'd roughen with heavy grit sand paper and drill a 2 or 3 holes in the retainer for the JBWELD to recess into.

It's staying put for now...we'll see how it holds up for the long haul.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Lastly the sprocket ring was busted probably leading to the most "bobble".


welded-up

I ground the undersides almost flat...leaving a little meat back there should be OK:


I kept the bead on the top-side for strength:

^^^ survived multiple strikes on the table.

SE primer + rustoleum tractor implement black paint and let it cure in the laundry room:


All back together again.



and a healthy coat of fluid film

^^^ smello-vision: my garage smells like blood-cheese catfish bait. :icon-sick:
 

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nice work on the chute wobble parts. I've had mixed results trying to build up material with JB weld, you're probably right on the adhesion part, a few holes could help lock it in place better. Or better yet, you could 3D print a new part.

thanks for the updates.
 
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Discussion Starter #76
Unplanned test run this morning before work; a moderately heavy snow/sleet mix (2-3")!







Zero issues with the machine. I have to work on the throttle response a bit; low speed jet is a little too rich causing it to stumble for a second when it hits load (Briggs didn't make that jet easy to get to during operation.)
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Tip for leaky Briggs shutoff valves

A tip for old school Briggs owners with a leaky metal tank shut-off valve.

There's an o-ring on the valve stem that's likely compromised.

If you've rebuilt a few tecumseh carbs, the o-ring for the low-speed needle fits like a glove. :thumbsup:

 

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Discussion Starter #78
We had 2 light snowfalls this week...enough to "load test" the machine. The auger / impeller and chute fixes are holding up great!

I made videos but won't upload to YT for 2 reasons:
  • The embarrassment of using a monster 2 stage machine to clear 3" of snow
  • The slight surge from leaning out the low-speed circuit necessary for correcting the stumbling when hitting load.
The carb is original but the jets, gaskets and seats are all scavenged just for testing. The only new part was the long emulsion tube...purely out of necessity.

So I treated her to some new OEM carb bling last night.

old vs new high-speed jet (that i actually filed down and sanded just to get running) :laugh:


old vs new low-speed :laugh:


new Viton-tipped needle, gasket & reset the carb height (these get set parallel to the body):



I also ordered some tiny teflon washers (Briggs 4184) for the emulsion tube seat...this is to prevent them from leaking into the lower intake and onto your garage/shed floor. For some reason, you can't buy these separate but with a set of 10 roll-pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
Thanks for the updates CC...great idea about the JB weld shim! Does Alice get jealous when you take out the redhead?
Thanks Cranman!

Alice is independent and self-confident with her new fancy shoes!

Besides, she's going to be very-happy with all of the new moves I'm learning with the redhead. :devil:
 
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